My factory sub had cut out twice, the first time eventually it turned on and then it cut out again and I found someone selling a jl audio 12" setup that didnt know what they're worth so I picked them up. I saw a thread about tapping into the factory amp - pulled down the upper trunk panel and saw my factory sub connector is loose so I fixed that but the factory sub. The JLs are 4 ohm, I can run in parallel to 2 ohm (or add a third for 1 ohm but will need a new amp), I've read the factory sub is .5 ohm and the 4 will throw the system out of whack but I figure I'll at least test these two JL audio 12" subs, bazooka ba1500, and ported enclosure with 25ft 0 gauge wiring that I got for $130 - if I like it I'll keep them if not I'll trade/sell them and get something closer to factory. I found this walkthrough for installation but the picture links are broken - does anyone have pictures for installing like this or know of another walkthrough? (Specifically running the power up to and through the firewalls grommet) https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/m35-m ... stall.html

Unfortunately those pictures are long gone and we can't get them back .

That being said, when I was looking to replace the sub in my 07, I had talked to crutchfield and they had a 'thin mount' sub that said should drop right in place of the old one.

Yeah I figured they would be but hey you never know! Running the hot wire is usually the hardest part but really isnt too bad in most cars, that post just made it seem so easy that I'd love to see the exact way it was done
Yeah if I were to install a sub I dont see myself putting in a free air sub, plus it would need to be a .5 ohm to not change the systems impedance if I'm not mistaken? (I might be). Another option I've read about it using a jl cleansweep (~70 on Ebay) if wiring dual 4 ohm subs parallel to 2 ohm sounds too distorted. I went into the front door panels and The owner before me installed audiopipe apmb's which are 8 ohm so I'm sure its already out of whack a bit but I can buy 2 ohm door speakers. I'll try that route with the text instructions, and if I figure it out I'll post some pictures

Infiniti has built so much into the sound system and center control for it that it's next to impossible to modify many of its parts. Ilya makes a great point. Places like Crutchfield can provide you with an adapter (if needed) to ensure your existing harness will remain 100% compatible with the new sub. Another option would be to consult the FSM for a wiring diagram and splice each wire individually into the new sub. Since it's just a sub and not the amplifier, I reckon it won't be that difficult, but Infiniti uses double-secret ninja engineers to ensure the easiest of modifications become as difficult as possible LOL.

Lol they definitely dont like to make it easy, but luckily we do have some awesome people who take the time to do awesome write ups. I came across this and I will probably be trying it later today, apparently the reason the main write up doesn't work is it's actually the wrong car and that the LoC hooked up directly to the factory sub connector does not lower the bass when increasing the volume. Seems pretty straightforward even without the pictures - I would run the power wires through grommets in the front and back firewall though

2007-m35-subwoofer-installation-t529737.html