New sr20 swap, problems, smoked by stock ka24de! :)

[boycelaforest707]

Hey guys, havent posted on here since it moved to the new zeroforum software, anyway here is the situation: I have owned 2 1991s and 1 1992, to the point: My friend drove up from arizona in his fresh swapped 1989 240sx with a redtop sr20det, anyway he was saying it felt kind of sluggish, I jump in the driver seat and it feels quick but not 200hp quick, long story short: We take it to the street legal drags, my old stock KA24DE 1991 240sx is there and races greg in the sr20 about 6 times, the KA24DE smokes the SR20DET hard about 2-3 car lengths each time! It must be running 17s!!

Main Stuff checked:7.5 boost builds strong at about 2400rpm all the way up, feels like it is lacking mid-high power about 3k-7k, checked the timing and had problems:Cam timing and CAS setup correct, unplug TPS, rev past 3k 3 times and check timing, with CAS retarded all the way it is at 20 degrees on crank mark?? WTF? It runs like ****, move it advance to what looks like 30 degrees and it runs good, but not alot of topend power, HELP!!

[Teerawood]

what kind of exhaust

[Luke]

It sounds like timing is your problem from what you're telling me about it. If you can't get the timing to 15º BTDC using the light and turning the CAS, you need to do this:

http://www.store.yahoo.com/pha....html

This will get the teeth lined up correctly and will reset the timing correctly. Turning it counter clockwise and it bogging/running slow means timing is way retarded. If you arbitrarily turn it clockwise to advance it, you need to make sure it doesn't go past 15 BTDC. If you do, it will cause knock and the knock sensor will cause the ECU to pull timing, causing it to bog when at higher boost and rpm. Reset the CAS and it will help, it did for me.

[boycelaforest707]

3 inch DP, 3 inch all the way, no cat. That diagram that you sent was how I checked the cam timing and cas, it is correct and perfect, this car runs like crap at 20 degrees, but runs good at about 30, there is something wrong here, CAS is set in correct and cam timing is correct at TDC, it is not 180 out either, what is left? maybe ECU??? The ecu has aftermarket eproms in it that you can switch inbetween the two, both eproms cause the same result, the guy he bought the sr20 from is sending a different chip for it to try, but he also is confused.

[eliterit]

just checking, but you are checking timing by using a regular spark plug wire attached to #1 coilpack and getting the reading off of the regular type wire right?

[S13240]

just checking, but you are checking timing by using a regular spark plug wire attached to #1 coilpack and getting the reading off of the regular type wire right?

You don't have to necessarily use that method, I just use that black line in the rear towards the firewall and coilpack #4 to get my timing signal.

boycelaforest707: Why don't you try checking the timing with a different timing gun? Also which mark is the timing on on the main crank pulley? 2nd on the right? There's no such thing as 30 degrees on the main crank pulley. Goes from -5 0 5 10 15 20, dunno where you're getting 30 degrees.

[Luke]

You don't have to necessarily use that method, I just use that black line in the rear towards the firewall and coilpack #4 to get my timing signal.

S13240, I don't think this is entirely true. In my experience, i was showing a timing reading that was like 10-20º more advanced when clipping on to the loop at the back of the valve cover or the coil pack wires for cyl #1.

Clipping onto the harness wires never works with standard lights. The only way i've been able to get an accurate reading with a timing light is by some type of thick gauge wire between the coilpack and spark plug (like an old spark plug wire from your ka. Believe me, many of us have spent weeks figuring this out)Try this writeup, it's pretty good and includes pics.

zerothread?id=59684btw, you don't necessarily need an extra coilpack, just gently stick the wire into the coil and the other end on the spark plug, you'll see what i mean. Good luck, you'll love it when the timing is set correctly.

[eliterit]

You don't have to necessarily use that method, I just use that black line in the rear towards the firewall and coilpack #4 to get my timing signal.

boycelaforest707: Why don't you try checking the timing with a different timing gun? Also which mark is the timing on on the main crank pulley? 2nd on the right? There's no such thing as 30 degrees on the main crank pulley. Goes from -5 0 5 10 15 20, dunno where you're getting 30 degrees.

i tried that method and came out short. then i found the method that luke is talking about and my car runs great now.

[9240sx]

Dont forget to unplugg the TPS to set the base timing or the tick marks will move around.

[Onizuka]

If it got beat by a stock KA24DE, that means its putting less than 130hp at the wheels, which means something is probably very broke. When my SR was running like total ***, and completely stock at 7psi, I still put down 167hp at the wheels.

[boycelaforest707]

It runs great, idles good, just doesnt have any power really, it wont rev past 5.5k.

[Onizuka]

Could be the mass-air sensor, be it dirty or on its way out. That or you have a boost leak. Not sure what else it could be!

[slow s13]

I had a stuck injector for about 15 minutes of run time I was very disapointed till it opened up.

[boycelaforest707]

All the injectors are ticking away, could a large vacum leak in the intake manifold gasket cause these problems and still show full boost on a boost gauge? Though the boost did seem to loose about .5 psi at 5k when it started loosing power... Possibly intercooler leak or something also.. will keep everyone posted, working on it some more.

[boycelaforest707]

Nothing new still runs like ****, suspecting TPS now, MAF swapped with another sr20 and nothing that way.