My new redtop is all installed but has no spark. I have no power in any terminal in the leading clip to the ignitor chip. What is a common mistake when installing these engines that would cause this. I don't think it is the coil packs or the ignitor chip, because there is no power entering the chip. could it be a bad crank angle sensor. Mine is spinning but it was shipped without a cap and could have been damaged.Also where can i find a break down of what each clip on the harness is and if it is compatible with the usdm car. I have already found the info on the clips near the battery. my problem is with the clips near the intake manifold.
any help is apreciatedthank youfstfenx
new sr has no spark
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
I'm assuming you used the SR engine harness for this swap.
There are 4 wires that come off the ECU and enter the ignitor chip (the 5 wire plug). Then the ignitor sends 4 new wires back into the harness that goes to the ignitor harness. What I would do is check for continuity. Get a volt meter out and check to make sure you have continuity traveling from the ignitor plug (the 4 wire plug) and make sure it ends up at the corresponding coil pack (usually the right pin on each coil pack plug).
The ignitor doesn't receive any power from the ECU until the car is running, so to say that it doesn't have power entering the ignitor may be premature.
From the sounds of it, the ignitor is bad, if you can land a new ignitor (or borrow one for testing purposes), try it. If that isn't the problem, double check to make sure you have the brown and grey plugs done up properly at the engine -> chassis connection. The thick black/red power is what supplies power to most of the engine harness.
There are 4 wires that come off the ECU and enter the ignitor chip (the 5 wire plug). Then the ignitor sends 4 new wires back into the harness that goes to the ignitor harness. What I would do is check for continuity. Get a volt meter out and check to make sure you have continuity traveling from the ignitor plug (the 4 wire plug) and make sure it ends up at the corresponding coil pack (usually the right pin on each coil pack plug).
The ignitor doesn't receive any power from the ECU until the car is running, so to say that it doesn't have power entering the ignitor may be premature.
From the sounds of it, the ignitor is bad, if you can land a new ignitor (or borrow one for testing purposes), try it. If that isn't the problem, double check to make sure you have the brown and grey plugs done up properly at the engine -> chassis connection. The thick black/red power is what supplies power to most of the engine harness.
I assume I should be turning the engine over while doing this. Also what exactly do you mean by continuity. I have already checked the plug with five wires going into the chip in the direction of the arrow on the chip. I however have not checked the side with four wires that goes against the direction of the chip. I am using a test light, should I use a voltometer instead.thanksfstfenx
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
tenkawa_akito wrote:Get a volt meter out and check to make sure you have continuity traveling from the ignitor plug (the 4 wire plug) and make sure it ends up at the corresponding coil pack (usually the right pin on each coil pack plug).
That's just to check for a short in the harness.
You have to remember one thing. An Ignitor chip is basically an amplifier. The ECU doesn't pulse out enough electricity to create a good spark. What I would do for checking spark is to pull a coil pack and while someone is cranking the motor, see if the plug arcs to the valve cover.
From the symptoms you described, it sounds like the ignitor has gone bad.
One last question. Have you done the wiring for the two plugs located at the end of the engine harness next to the battery? I'm not totally certain on this since I usually use a KA harness and wire the ignitor in, but I believe the coil packs draw the constant power (the fifth wire entering the coil pack harness) from that plug connection