new sparks, hardwired pump but still no start!

[seanman]

So i've been working on installing my nismo fpr and gauge. for anyone who had read that thread about my car shutting off after installing it, well it still wont start. my pump wasn't priming with ignition on so i wired it to my battery with a switch. it works now with the switch. i installed my new ngk's and set the pressure to 36psi just while the pump was priming. its a redtop sr, and it was running when i installed the afpr but when i noticed it was running lean and went to up the pressure a bit it stuttered then shut off and thats when i noticed my pump stopped priming. so

walbro pump wired to battery with 15 amp fuse and switchnismo afprfpr gaugenew ngksstill wont start

[srdub-t]

i know its stupid but did you check the fuel pump fuse?

[240life]

I don't know if you got my last e-mail, but you should get an account with PHATG20 they have a fsm for the sr20det in english that will show you the proper testing procedures and has all the inf you could need.Now that your fuel system is working, your either experiencing a faulty igniter chip, coil packs. Check the grounds to your coil packs. This link could be a place to check for a potential problem..zerothread/159644

this one will show you how to test your igniter

zerothread/252268This thread will give you the link to the fsmread pages 217-219 & 241-244 they are refered to EC80-EC83 & EC105-EC108 they should help


Modified by 240life at 7:42 PM 5/10/2008

[seanman]

thanks eric! and as for my fuel pump fuse yeah its good, but i'm no longer running my pump by the ecu. its just hardwired with a switch. i'll check my coil packs but im almost certain they're fine. i was thinking it could be my ignitor chip too, so i'll be testing that tomorrow

[240life]

I was thinking about your recent thread, in it you said you f'ed with the fuel pump fuse installing your fpr? I think you should pay close attention to your ECU. You might have damaged it by shorting it out on the ignition pinout, which controls the signal for your spark and fuel control plus various other sensors. Even though your still seeing a test light on your ecu it can't send the signal only recieve it. So I would disconnect your battery and remove your ecu and inspect it. I hope that is not it, cause ECU's are pricey.

[seanman]

i was thinking that too, but i already took it apart twice and inspected it thoroughly and i saw no burns chars or disconnections

[240life]

ok, hmmm... well use the google search tab and look up testing sr20det coilpacks, I think hijacker was walking another member through this process and had an excellent explanation on how this system works. I would start with your igniter checking for power, check continuity between the ecu and igniter looking for excessive voltage drop and then from your igniter to coils good luck i freaking hate electrical. Oh yeah and make sure all of your external grounds are attached and in good order or else your coils won't fire.

[seanman]

ok sweet! time for overalls

[240life]

overalls

[seanman]

ok for the ignitor chip im not really sure how to test it, i mean i know how to but not exactly how to go abouts. do i disconnect the chip completely? or open up the wires or something? i just dont know how to get the pins on my tester to the pins on the chip

[seanman]

so do i just touch the wires with my pins? or do i need to expose the actual copper in it?

[240life]

Ok the image above should help with the info I got out of the Fsm...if it doesn't test this way it is no good. 1) disconnect power transistor harness connector2) check ignitor continuity between terminals with analog tester+E/ -1 should have no continuity same for +E/-2 etc.... - E/+1 should have continuity same for -E/+2 etc....... +E/-A should have continuity repeat for +E/-B,C,D. - E/+A should also have continuity repeat for -E/+B,C,D. +1/- A should have continuity procede to +2/- B,.. +3/-C,.. +4/-D -1/+A should have no continuity procede - 2/+B,.. -3/+C,.. -4/+DIf done like this you need a multimeter...if you don't have one... leave it connected to your harness and test in the same fashion using one of the cheap light-up testers
Modified by 240life at 4:37 PM 5/11/2008

[seanman]

when you say multimeter do you mean voltmeter? if so, i've tested my chip and im not getting anything

[240life]

yes it is the same thing... so you are not getting continuity in your ignitor according to the test you need a new one.

[seanman]

alright...great. are the nico classifieds a good source for a good price?

[240life]

yeah, but alot of people use the Q45 or 300z ignitors cause you can get them in the states, but they require cutting and rewiring your harness....I have seen the actual part#22020-50f00 for SR20DET's available from jdm-planet on ebay brand new for $75 shipped and all that you do is plug it in.
Modified by 240life at 3:47 PM 5/13/2008