New rotors new pads, still getting the shakes..HELP

[movesucka]

Ok. I put new high quality front rotors(100.00 a piece) and new ceramic pads on the front. I am still getting shimming in the steering wheel when I apply the brakes mostly from higher speeds or perhaps when brakes are a little hotter. I have tried the go 60 mph and aplly brakes to about 20 mph and did it again and again. It is better but not what it should be. What am Idoing wrong or not doing? Thanks! Its a 97 model.

Sucka!

[TXCumtrensh]

I had a similar front brake pulsation, after replacing the rotors with Drilled rotors, and Hawk HPS pads, on all 4 wheels.. After the wheels were properly torqued (89 ft/lb's) I felt NO vibrations at all, i have a 1998, there is no difference in the brakes.

[maxnix]

Well, burnishing needs to be done before careful street use for the next 300 miles.

It is not so much what you paid, but the source of the rotors that counts, and that they are not Chinese counterfeits. Best pads are OEM by far.

Welcome to NICO.

[movesucka]

Thanks you guys. Seeing how the rotors are not OEM as I originally thought, should I take the rotors off and have them turned? Also, I may be getting some of it that is not felt in the steering wheel from the rear. Any thoughts?

SUCKA!

[maxnix]

Well, at least check your tension rod bearings.

Turning rotors is never a bad idea. Confirmed brand?

[StarPD]

Ok. I put new high quality front rotors(100.00 a piece) and new ceramic pads on the front. I am still getting shimming in the steering wheel when I apply the brakes mostly from higher speeds or perhaps when brakes are a little hotter. I have tried the go 60 mph and aplly brakes to about 20 mph and did it again and again. It is better but not what it should be. What am Idoing wrong or not doing? Thanks! Its a 97 model.

Sucka!

If you did not hand torque your wheel lugs in a star pattern in 3 stages to 87 ft-lbs, and didn't burnish the brakes in as maxnix says, you could have overheated the rotors. When they cool down they stress relieve, and can easily warp. The only fix IF that's the case is to have them turned, install the wheels PROPERLY, and be sure to burnish in your brakes. That means EASY, gradual stops for 300 miles. No panic stops from road speeds or heavy brake use in rush hour type traffic.

Take the wheels off and check the rotors for warpage. It doesn't take much to cause the symptoms you describe, so be very observant of how true the rotors run when spun.

Old rule for cars:" Break in the motor hard (but NOT high RPM), the brakes gently".

Drive normally AFTER break-in.

Let us know what you find.

[92Q45guy]

Check your tension rod bushings. Mine are shoot and everytime I apply the brakes it shakes very bad.

[Jeff Williams]

Also have your tires balanced. An out of balance tire can warp the rotors.

Another thing to check, is to make sure that the pads arent dragging on the rotors. Be sure to clean the caliper pins well and use a good brake caliper greas on them when re-assembling.

Make sure the rotor to wheel surfaces are clean and the surface between the rotor and the hub are clean.

If you have aftermarket wheels, make sure they are hub-centric and that the rings are installed.

The tension rods and upper links are also an area of trouble.

In addition, check the ball joints for excessive play when you have the wheels off.

Any strange tire wear?

[movesucka]

The brand is Bendix made to OEM specs, bla bla bla. Anyway I dont have any abnormal tire wear whatsoever. In fact they are wearing nice and even. I dont know what to do at this point other than turn the rotors, you know, the ones that are OEM specs, bla bla bla. And go ahead and do the rear brakes as well. Outside of that, what else could it be? With no abnormal tire wear it should not be tension rods or bearings, correct?

SUCKA!

[movesucka]

Dear George,

Thank you all for your help. I will take the wheels off over the weekend and check the rotors.

SUCKA!