I just bought a '95 Q45a, 124K, traction control. I have a bunch of questions, and have seen many different answers while searching various message boards. I'll just list my questions, and if you feel like answering one or all, I'll appreciate your time. For those who like to see the new Q owners' cars, there is a picture of it here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...35980 The auction is for the 17" rims that were on the car when I purchased it.
I've done no maintenance, fluid checks or changes, etc., yet. All I've done is put the original rims on the car to get it to pass Maryland inspection.
1. Transmission feels good. How often should I change the fluid? I live in MD, so do I need to add a cooler immediately? At all? What is a pan drop? I have read that it is good to drive in 3rd gear unless on the highway. Is this true?
2. I'm used to a 4-cylinder Honda, so it feels strong to me, but not necessarily what I expected. Should I stick to the seats, burn rubber when flooring it, or is it more smooth? I can feel an surge of power when it shifts into third, but not so much before that. I've been told by the mechanic/inspection guy that the engine is in good shape, for what that's worth.
3. What interval for changing oil, filter, transmission fluids, automatic suspension fluid (Q45a), others? Not as spaced out as the manual calls for, I presume.
4. "Slip" and "TCS off" lights on dashboard stay on. Does this always indicate a bad TCS relay, and can this be easily replaced myself?
new Q owner -- maintenance info
Hi and welcome to NICO. Your car looks great. I love the active suspension models. The only downside is that an active suspension is very expensive to maintain. I would first take it to the dealer or a VERY knowledgeable Infiniti tech and have the suspension checked out for wear and leakage.
1. At 124k your transmission is probably on its way downhill depending on previous maintenance. The fluid should be replaced with MOBIL 1 ATF at least once a year or 30,000 miles. When this is done you need to have your transmission flushed, not simply refilled. To do this, the pan needs to be dropped and the filter removed and subsequently replaced with a new filter (only $28 from Joe). Where was the car located before you bought it? This will help tell a lot about its condition. An external transmission cooler is always a good idea, even when you live in a colder climate. The only difference is that you should NOT bypass the heat exchange on the radiator to put one in as you'll need the radiator to warm up your ATF in those cold MD winters. Driving around town in 3rd will put less wear and tear on your transmission. Just be sure not to go above 55-60 mph and don't "gun" the car.
2. The Q45 is a very fast car. I don't know exactly why it wouldn't be getting the power you think it should but it could have a lot to do with the following: spark plugs (should have been replaced at 60k and should be replaced again), throttle body needs cleaning, fuel injectors, etc. Your best bet is to have the parts of the engine such as the throttle body, fuel injectors, MAF, etc. cleaned. NOTE: on spark plugs, ONLY use NGK spark plugs that are OEM. We just had a 94 Q here on the board die in part to use of another spark plug.
3. I can't tell you much about active suspension maintenance but change your oil every 3mo/3,000 miles with MOBIL 1 synthetic oil. You live in MD? If so, a 15w50 or 20w50 should work fine. Replace P/S fluid and brake fluid once a year. P/S fluid with MOBIL 1 ATF and Brake fluid with Valvoline Synpower DOT 3/4.
I'm sure others will jump in to answer more questions. Good luck with your car and enjoy the wealth of information here on the board.
Nick
1. At 124k your transmission is probably on its way downhill depending on previous maintenance. The fluid should be replaced with MOBIL 1 ATF at least once a year or 30,000 miles. When this is done you need to have your transmission flushed, not simply refilled. To do this, the pan needs to be dropped and the filter removed and subsequently replaced with a new filter (only $28 from Joe). Where was the car located before you bought it? This will help tell a lot about its condition. An external transmission cooler is always a good idea, even when you live in a colder climate. The only difference is that you should NOT bypass the heat exchange on the radiator to put one in as you'll need the radiator to warm up your ATF in those cold MD winters. Driving around town in 3rd will put less wear and tear on your transmission. Just be sure not to go above 55-60 mph and don't "gun" the car.
2. The Q45 is a very fast car. I don't know exactly why it wouldn't be getting the power you think it should but it could have a lot to do with the following: spark plugs (should have been replaced at 60k and should be replaced again), throttle body needs cleaning, fuel injectors, etc. Your best bet is to have the parts of the engine such as the throttle body, fuel injectors, MAF, etc. cleaned. NOTE: on spark plugs, ONLY use NGK spark plugs that are OEM. We just had a 94 Q here on the board die in part to use of another spark plug.
3. I can't tell you much about active suspension maintenance but change your oil every 3mo/3,000 miles with MOBIL 1 synthetic oil. You live in MD? If so, a 15w50 or 20w50 should work fine. Replace P/S fluid and brake fluid once a year. P/S fluid with MOBIL 1 ATF and Brake fluid with Valvoline Synpower DOT 3/4.
I'm sure others will jump in to answer more questions. Good luck with your car and enjoy the wealth of information here on the board.
Nick
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
All of those questions have been disussed in DETAIL here, do a search........
but Ill go over each one briefly
1. You have the right idea....... Changing the fluid with mobil 1 synthetic every 36k miles, along with a pan drop and a filter change.... A pan drop is when you take off the transmission oil pan and clean it out really good, and then you replace the filter..... Also, add the cooler ASAP...... especially if it has been maintained good, you may be able to get quite a few more miles off the OEM transmission.....
2. My car is like that...... Chances are it will need all new filters, and a good TB/plenum cleaning.... A can of BG44k wouldnt hurt either...... Basically everything that nick mentioned......
3. Every 90 days, regardless of mileage.... If you dont drive much, then every 3k should do it.......... You could go longer, but the car will be substantially shorter lived....... I dont know much about the Full Active suspension, but if no one chimes in Ill take a gander in the service manual for you!!! Chances are (unless it has already been done), the active suspension will need a total revamp to make it like new......
4. Dont know, someone else will help..... Again, if no one helps, ill look in the manual!!!
Enjoy your Q!!
but Ill go over each one briefly
1. You have the right idea....... Changing the fluid with mobil 1 synthetic every 36k miles, along with a pan drop and a filter change.... A pan drop is when you take off the transmission oil pan and clean it out really good, and then you replace the filter..... Also, add the cooler ASAP...... especially if it has been maintained good, you may be able to get quite a few more miles off the OEM transmission.....
2. My car is like that...... Chances are it will need all new filters, and a good TB/plenum cleaning.... A can of BG44k wouldnt hurt either...... Basically everything that nick mentioned......
3. Every 90 days, regardless of mileage.... If you dont drive much, then every 3k should do it.......... You could go longer, but the car will be substantially shorter lived....... I dont know much about the Full Active suspension, but if no one chimes in Ill take a gander in the service manual for you!!! Chances are (unless it has already been done), the active suspension will need a total revamp to make it like new......
4. Dont know, someone else will help..... Again, if no one helps, ill look in the manual!!!
Enjoy your Q!!
I have a 92 Q, original owner with 133k miles. And I live in Maryland, my first suggestion would be to have it checked out by a dealer with experience in older Q's. My best experience lately has been with Jim Coleman Infiniti in Bethesda. They have a tech by the name of Danny Bell who has been there since 90 and understands the old Q's Ask them, or another dealer to run the history of the car in the computer. If they can't pull up records try to find out where it was serviced, it will be an invaluable tool to determine what needs to be done. You bought what might be considered the best year of the Gen 1 Q. All the issues with transmissions and timing guides are resolved by that year. And the car was detuned slightly for the final year of production in 96. Make sure the TCS is turned on, there is an on/off button on the console. If that doesn't work there are two relays underneath the battery that will need to be replaced, they are pretty inexpensive. You do not have traction control if those are lit. You will notice the difference in the winter. Your best source of parts will be Joe at Scottsdale Infiniti. Your biggest challange will be the active suspension, you need to have it evaluated by a competent dealer like the one I mentioned. If it is bad there are a couple alternatives, convert to the standard suspension or have the system rebuilt. Both those alternatives can be done by parties on this site, just speak up and ask who they are. Congratulations are in order you bought yourself a very nice Q!
It seems that *thanks* are in order, also, Q45Viper. A very informative post from someone else in my neck of the woods. Thanks to all of you who responded to this and my other posts. This is priceless information, because I really want this car to last. It's not often you can get a car this nice to drive, in this good of shape, at a low price (that doesn't already have something majorly wrong with it).
Q45Viper alluded to my model year as not having the transmission problems that other Gen1's did. Guys, what can I expect from the transmission if I take care of it? It seems to be in very good condition right now, although I have yet to drop the pan and flush it out. Is it reasonable to expect it to last for most of it's future life if I keep the maintenance up as talked about here?
It's a second car and I'm solidly in the middle class, so I worry that major repair costs to come will signify the end of my luxury car ownership days.
Q45Viper alluded to my model year as not having the transmission problems that other Gen1's did. Guys, what can I expect from the transmission if I take care of it? It seems to be in very good condition right now, although I have yet to drop the pan and flush it out. Is it reasonable to expect it to last for most of it's future life if I keep the maintenance up as talked about here?
It's a second car and I'm solidly in the middle class, so I worry that major repair costs to come will signify the end of my luxury car ownership days.
My best advice to you is start a savings account or just consciously save for repairs on the car. Your year does not have the transmission problems that the first-gen's had, this is true, but it's still important to do EVERYTHING mentioned here about transmission maintenance. If your car is shifting fine and you start being aggressive about caring for it, the transmission could and should last you quite a few thousand miles.
Nick
Nick
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Tstat-- I just did it this weekend, and it should be followed (or preceeded in my case) by a full coolant flush..... It was super easy......
o2 sensors should be done every 100k or when they go bad, whichever is first....... Knock sensors should just happen sometime...... probably after 100k.......
I dont know about the o2 sensors DIYability, but I know that the knock sensors are under the plenum, and taking it off is arduous at best...... It is DIYable, but you would have to expect the car to be out of commission for a week or so....... Plus, if you going to the trouble of taking off the plenum there are many other jobs to go with it!!!
o2 sensors should be done every 100k or when they go bad, whichever is first....... Knock sensors should just happen sometime...... probably after 100k.......
I dont know about the o2 sensors DIYability, but I know that the knock sensors are under the plenum, and taking it off is arduous at best...... It is DIYable, but you would have to expect the car to be out of commission for a week or so....... Plus, if you going to the trouble of taking off the plenum there are many other jobs to go with it!!!
I just purchased a 97 Q45 w/67K miles, the car was previously driven in Texas without proper maintenance.(I just replaced the dirty air filter) I share many of same concerns/questions as new Q owners like mpoyner and airman.
1. Lack of power. Compare to my 4 cylinder honda, the Q hesitate to go > 65MPH. Dealer told me they clean out some leaves in MAF, but knock sensors need to be replaced. ($1,000 job) I don't see any "Engine service" warning light on display. If I clean the fuel system, would it help to restore some of the power? 2. transmission Flush. I can not find a place that will do both machine flush and pan drop filter service. Should I replace filter first then go to a second place for Flush? or Flush first then replace the filter?
3. My driver power seat doesn't go forward. Dealer said the motor and rail needs to be replaced. they want $550 to fix the problem. Should I get a estimate form local garage?(their hourly rate is $70, it will take them 1 hr to diagnosis problem and order parts from dealer)
Thank you.
1. Lack of power. Compare to my 4 cylinder honda, the Q hesitate to go > 65MPH. Dealer told me they clean out some leaves in MAF, but knock sensors need to be replaced. ($1,000 job) I don't see any "Engine service" warning light on display. If I clean the fuel system, would it help to restore some of the power? 2. transmission Flush. I can not find a place that will do both machine flush and pan drop filter service. Should I replace filter first then go to a second place for Flush? or Flush first then replace the filter?
3. My driver power seat doesn't go forward. Dealer said the motor and rail needs to be replaced. they want $550 to fix the problem. Should I get a estimate form local garage?(their hourly rate is $70, it will take them 1 hr to diagnosis problem and order parts from dealer)
Thank you.
Hi and welcome to NICO. I hope you enjoy the wealth of information in this club. Here's some thoughts on your problems.
1. What did they use to clean out the leaves in the MAF? A bad MAF connection can cause a lot of problems with power loss.
2. You should flush, then replace the filter. You can buy the filter from Joe at Scottsdale for around 25-30 bucks.
3. I would have your local shop do it and you should order the parts from Joe at Scottsdale. He is an invaluable source. Unless there is something wrong with the track, the motor is all that needs to be replaced. Have your shop look at the track to make sure there is something wrong with it.
Again, welcome and I hope you enjoy this club.
Nick
P.S. If the MAF isn't the power loss problem, replace your Thermostat (9 bucks from Joe) and your O2 sensors (103.08 apiece).
1. What did they use to clean out the leaves in the MAF? A bad MAF connection can cause a lot of problems with power loss.
2. You should flush, then replace the filter. You can buy the filter from Joe at Scottsdale for around 25-30 bucks.
3. I would have your local shop do it and you should order the parts from Joe at Scottsdale. He is an invaluable source. Unless there is something wrong with the track, the motor is all that needs to be replaced. Have your shop look at the track to make sure there is something wrong with it.
Again, welcome and I hope you enjoy this club.
Nick
P.S. If the MAF isn't the power loss problem, replace your Thermostat (9 bucks from Joe) and your O2 sensors (103.08 apiece).
knock sensor goes bad early
I do see some corrosion on the battery terminals, and on some nuts and screws. Do you think the steam cleaning by the seller damaged the sensors? Can I prevent the damaging overheat by flush the coolant and replace thermostat? Please advice!
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
MAF cleaning...... Get some brake parts cleaner and spray it down..... Let it dry, and repeat if its bad.... Wipe off the screen while your at it.....
Replace the Tstat and flush the cooling system with distilled water...... I found it easier to do the cooling flush and Tstat in one job....... Take out the old Tstat, and then flush the system.... You get unrestriced coolant flow, so it goes faster..... When your done flushing, put in the new tstat.....
Replace the Tstat and flush the cooling system with distilled water...... I found it easier to do the cooling flush and Tstat in one job....... Take out the old Tstat, and then flush the system.... You get unrestriced coolant flow, so it goes faster..... When your done flushing, put in the new tstat.....