New pads/rotors, but still ho-hum braking?

[slipnfall]

Hi Folks, Two weeks ago I installed Hawk HPS pads on the read of my '92 S13(no-abs), along with auto-store brand rotors. I noticed immediately that the rear bit harder: I locked the rear's up by accident coming to a quick stop! Just a week later I installed the front pair, with a set of Brembo blanks. Of course I followed bedding procedures(they were smokin'!) for both installs. Anyways, overall my pedal feel isn't much different at light to moderate braking. Of course if I hammer on 'em they'll lock up easy. But I don't feel any huge difference in initial bite: even on my old '92 accord, using cheap-arse pads and rotors, I noticed a huge difference immediately. All four calipers were rebuilt with major seals at the same time fluid was changed(~7months ago). DOT3 GUNK brand IIRC. I never experiance any loss of pressure in the pedal. The brake booster has a *small* line of rust, like a drip-spot from where the master is bolted to it. That being said, it is *always* dry, and like I said, fluid level is consistent. I'm thinking maybe previous owner replaced the master cly. Should I attempt to adjust the brake pedal? There doesn't seem to be any play in the pedal, and clevice pin rotates freely. Perhaps the pads aren't bedded correctly(I scuffed/cleaned the rotors before installing BTW). Maybe I just need some braided lines?

Thanks for reading, sorry for the winded-ness, I'd rather spill anything relevant now.

[slipnfall]

Also of course my e-brake is tigher now: is it good measure to adjust this after a brake pad install? I thought the design of the rear caliper made it 'self adjusting', unlike my g/f's 2004 accord that I have to get around to adjusting; a master honda tech told me the e-brake does *not* make up for pad thickness changes in this car!!

[nismofly]

pad and rotor changes will not adjust pedal feel, youre looking for braided lines for that

[Exar-Kun]

if you didn't make a drstic change in how a pad bites "cold you wouldn't notice much pedal feel change from what you did.

I would adjsut the e-brake anyways, sometimes you may not have turned the piston back enough (you did screw it back into the caliper, right? not just push it?) or maybe too much leaving it mis-dajusted..at least until you use the e-brake a few times while parked...

-CHet

[slipnfall]

Ok well I'v been looking into stainless lines anyways, so this just re-affirms it(nismofly). And yes I did turn the rear rotors in(and not push them).

Thanks

[BadMojo]

Ok well I'v been looking into stainless lines anyways, so this just re-affirms it(nismofly). And yes I did turn the rear rotors in(and not push them).

I got some stainless lines from SPL, and it did make a noticeable difference in pedal feel. Good, inexpensive mod and along with Brembo rotors, Hawk HPS pads and ATE Superblue fluid, I'm quite happy with my brakes.

[slipnfall]

Along those lines: anything comparable to ATE Blue? I just remember how much fluid I went through to bleed my brakes last time, I'd hate to waste the expensive stuff. Is the boiling point the main selling point w/the ATE Blue?

BTW I see a new sponsor is selling Technfit lines for the same price as SPL, however they aren't teflon coated, which = longterm corrosion IMO.

[cdlong]

i use valvoline synpower or something. it's DOT 4 and it works fine. anything DOT 4 will most likely be enough.

HPSs aren't that serious of a pad. they will improve feel a bit, but mostly just help with heat capacity and a little with initial bite. i second the comment about stainless steel lines.

the sleeves on SPL lines aren't for corrosion, duh, they're stainless, they're for dirt protection. i've heard that stainless steel lines tend to trap dirt and grit in the weave which wears on the inner line, causing leaks over time. the sleeves keep the grit out and prolongs the life of the line. if they are the same price, go with the SPLs, i have them on my car and they are good quality.