New owner with a goal.

[Pitts]

Earlier today I just bought a '84 NA. I bought it for $400 and all it needed was a fuel pump (which I've ordered from TRE). I'll be picking it up by the end of the month. Once it fires up (old pump is barely working), I'm hoping to not hear any valve tapping. 185k miles on the body and 122k miles on the engine. After the fuel pump, a complete tune-up is in store (with timing and a water pump). Eventually I will be grabbing all the necessary parts to do the factory turbo swap. Oh, and it does have a 5 speed with a stage 2 clutch thankfully. I'm expecting to have to replace the struts, hoses, and belts (the latter two will be done with the tune-up). I've been doing some reading and I'm hoping the hatch doesn't leak or at least that there isn't much, if any, rust. Maybe I'll get super lucky and I can just use a sanding pad on a die grinder and touch up the surface on any rust I approach. I do live in Montana and the previous owner bypassed and removed the heater core. That won't be a worry for me however simply because it'll be a summer only car (my DDs are both FWD).

After I do the factory turbo swap, I plan to upgrade to 30 way adjustable coilovers (the BC's on Z1), upgrade the rear diff, and do some chassis strengthening (3 pt roll cage, sway bars, and tower bars). Then I'll do some minor things such as a full 3" turbo back exhaust, better intake, boost controller, intercooler, upgrade the necessary fuel components, lighter driveline, and probably a few more things. I just want some good power that I can DD, walk on the Mustangs and some Camaros here, as well as go for a spirited drive and smoke some tires.

I'll take some pictures and upload them once I've gone through the car and inspected (clean actually) it.

Has anyone used the Quaife diff that Z1 has on their page?

Thanks.

[evildky]

Congrats on the Z and welcome to Nico!
Sounds like you have a lot of plans. Z1 sells parts for Z32's as in 1990-1996 and nothing for the Z31 (1984-1989) so the coil overs you see there won't fit your car, the diff could be made to work but not worth it, as quaiffe makes a unit for the Z31 as does KAAZ, cusco, OSG and all the other majors. zcarparts.com, courteseyparts, black dragon are all good sources.

[Pitts]

That's kind of a bummer. I knew they sold Z32 parts but I didn't know they used a different diff. I know a fair amount on the 240sx's but new to the Z's and have a ton to learn. Thanks for letting me know that Z1's parts would be useless for the most part on my Z31. Im going to look around some more and see what I can find as for the best deal on a new diff and suspension setup. Thanks for the tips on the diffs.

[Pitts]

Had a quick question on intake manifolds. Is there anyone that makes a good manifold for better flow? Or is that a custom fab item?


Also, picking up the Z in about 13 hours; leaving in 9 hours.

[evildky]

when you say "intake manifold" I assume you mean the plenum and no the actual manifold, the plenum is the restrictive part the lower manifold itself is pretty cut and dry. A popular option of the pathfinder intake plenum, there are certain maxima plenums that can be used as well either way has it's challenges and setbacks. There were a couple of people who cut the top off the stock piece then milled it out and welded a new top on the stock piece, any decent fab shop could replicate this, or you could go full custom fabbed plenum and to my knowledge no one actually sells these but a few have traded hands second hand or you could commission a fab shop to build one.

[Pitts]

My apologies, all I've ever owned or built were GM vehicles. So used to it being called an upper intake manifold instead of a plenum. Thanks for the help. Looks like I'll do it myself then seeing as how I've got everything I'd need to do it. I'd post pictures of the car, but I'm still in the process of cleaning it up and removing all the cheap ricer remains.

[evildky]

GM's LS, LM LQ etc use a one piece intake manifold, the older LT's used a rather cumbersome multi piece intake manifold, Gm was way late to pick up multipoint fuel injection aside from a few novelties, and the failed crossfire system. When nissan started making V6 engines their design required separating the intake into 2 pieces for assembly and packaging purposes, much like the ford system that popped up a few years later.

[Pitts]

The GM's I've really worked on or built were all 60* V6's and the EcoTec's. All the 60* had 2 piece intake's. Worked on a couple LT1's and LS1's, but never built one or had serious downtime to play with one.

Update: Diagnosed the running issue. The plugs are fouled. Replacing all the ignition components from the coil to the plugs sometime this week. Trans feels good and the synchros are in great shape, so that's a plus. Ended up finding out that it has an aluminum flywheel with a stage 2 clutch. It does have more rust than I'd like, but overall, it's pretty much all surface rust (except a couple minor spots). I should have no problem grinding them down, welding new plates, and so on when I get to that point.

[evildky]

I dislike GM V6 and 4's so much I didn't even think about them.

I don't see where you mentioned a running issue? If the car is fuel fouling it's likely a CHTS issue not a timing component, on a side not the ignitors are kinda hard to find an expensive, many convert to a newer nissan ignitor as these age. Could also be the O2, generally the O2 will make the car run rich but it will still run, the CHTS will cause the car to run rich to the point that it will flood out or not restart when warm.

[Pitts]

It doesn't flood or have issues starting up. The guy who sold it to me thought the fuel pump was going out, but the plugs are so old, it's not even funny. I've checked the O2 and MAF already. The distributor cap and rotor had some age, but nothing to cause any problems. Wires had good resistance. But I'm replacing everything while I've got it all accessible. Plug #6 was a pain to get access to. I've got plug #5 soaking with some PB blaster (it wouldn't even budge earlier) overnight. However, I've got to see if my local NAPA can source the hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake (before the TB) as it broke on me today.

I do agree with you, I've lost so much patience and money with my Pontiacs. If it weren't for the fact that I live in the mountains and need at least FWD, I'd sell all of my Pontiacs. Then use that money to buy nearly everything I'd need to hit 350rwhp.

[evildky]

The plugs are pretty easy to get out if you use the tool under the carpet next to the jack, far simpler than any fwd V6.

That hose is just a pcv breather, in a pinch you can plug the part that goes to the intake and put a breather cap on the valve cover.

Not sure if there is any real reason to suspect the fuel system but lets remember there is a filter inline, thats pretty cheap and simple to replace.

[Pitts]

I've got more than my fair share of tools, I had no problem reaching the plugs and having room to work with them. But I bought some PB Blaster for cylinder 5.

I sealed off the two inlets and added a breather on the filler cap.

As for the running issue, I figured that out when I changed the oil today. The oil on the dipstick is plain, however, the fill cap showed an obvious sign of coolant leaking into the oil. Seeing as how I don't see coolant on the bottom of the block, I'm thinking maybe a leak in the intake manifold gasket? But I'm currently unaware if the manifold has coolant passages in it. It's going to take some poking and prodding to see what exactly caused the coolant to get into the block or on the heads.

[evildky]

There are coolant passages in the intake manifold, thats where your engine temp sender is located. If you were sucking coolant into your intake it would be burning it, there would be no "sign's of coolant leaking into the oil as there are no oil passages in the intake manifold. Being an OHC engine there is not lifter valley if thats what you were thinking, beneath the intake manifold is just the top of the block and a coolant pipe that runs from the waterpump to the back of the engine for the heater. If you think there is water in the coolant you can drain it and check it, if coolant is in the oil the only way to get there is a blown HG which is fairly uncommon considering each head has 13 head bolts.

[sx moneypit]

I've got more than my fair share of tools, I had no problem reaching the plugs and having room to work with them. But I bought some PB Blaster for cylinder 5.

I sealed off the two inlets and added a breather on the filler cap.

As for the running issue, I figured that out when I changed the oil today. The oil on the dipstick is plain, however, the fill cap showed an obvious sign of coolant leaking into the oil. Seeing as how I don't see coolant on the bottom of the block, I'm thinking maybe a leak in the intake manifold gasket? But I'm currently unaware if the manifold has coolant passages in it. It's going to take some poking and prodding to see what exactly caused the coolant to get into the block or on the heads.

You may be just seeing some condensation from the engine sitting up.Be sure and check your PCV system.

[Pitts]

I actually completely forgot about condensation doing that until my friend mentioned it later that night. That's what I saw.

I've got a few other things to check. I did notice that the TPS might need to be adjusted. If so, that could explain it running. I've planned to spent more time on the car, but I've been too busy. Going to try loosening the TPS while it idles, adjust it, and see if it changes anything. Free test and takes maybe 10 minutes with a friend to keep it from stalling.