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Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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LSDrift
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:54 am
Car: 1990 RS13 RB25

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Hello all! Just wanted to introduce my self and my project as it now has life...somewhat...I picked up a S2 RB25 motor/trans from RawBrokerage here about a year ago and due to school/work etc haven't gotten a chance to really get a crack at it till now. So for about the last week or 10 days I have been working like a mad man and I have pulled the KA, put in the RB and trans etc. and have begun my attempts to start it...to little avail. So here's the rundown of how it currently sits (and yes I understand there's more I need to hook up to expect it to run perfectly):

1994 S2 RB25DET from an ECR33
Mckinney Mounts
Shaftmasters Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft
Greddy plenum with RB25 TB adapter plate and S14 throttle cable
S14 auto OE radiator
ISIS oil filter relocation kit
Wiring Specialties premade RB25 to S13 harness (M/T)
New NGK BKR5EIX-11 spark plugs
Spec Stage 2 Clutch and PP
300ZX TT fuel filter
Braille B2317R 17 lb Battery
Raw6 intercooler
Walbro 255 fuel pump
OE RB25 MAF (Maxima equivalent)
Flex-a-lite 412 pullers


Now, for what isn't hooked up that is a duh:

Intercooler piping
IACV hose(the one from the IACV to intercooler piping)
BPV
exhaust (yes, I am straight piped out the manifold as it sits now haha)
power steering and lines (need custom ones made)
and I think that's it...


So here's where the story continues, I got all excited today and began trying to start it. It cranks very hard and occasionally pops. So, I got some starter fluid out and it fires up and runs until it's out of starter fluid. Did that a few times till I figured it was a fuel issue. So, I switched back to the OE fuel pump and tried a few more times. This round, coupled with some mild turning of the CAS, it decided to fire up and IDLE! BUT, only for about 5-10 seconds and then it would slowly die. I have since switched back to the Walbro pump and get the same results. This was all done with the MAF disconnected because all attempts with the MAF connected failed miserably. Any addition of throttle kills it almost instantly. Also, I have a check engine light on but I'm not seeing any codes from the ECU.

So my question is, are the things listed that aren't hooked up absolutely necessary for a somewhat smooth idle? In my N00B excitement am I on the verge of destroying my motor by trying to start it in this state? I don't intend to try any more until I get most of the listed things hooked up/installed but I thought I would pick the brains of experience on here.

Here is a link to videos of the progress:

https://picasaweb.google.com/turbotuner ... 5Progress#

Thanks a ton for any help!

Eric


b00stinbmx
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:23 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch rb25det. drift slut

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do yourself a favor and hook it all up, take the time. i understand the excitement cause i've done it too, but you have determined that its wired somewhat properly cause it is firing up. but you really should get your exhaust on, and your entire intake tract hooked up so you can run it with a maf. unless you have the maf on the TB directly its not going to run if you have it plugged in till you have a nice complete intake tract from maf to throttle body. plus with the exhaust on its gonna be a lot quieter so you can hear if there are any problems. it sounds like you could have a timing issue going on but just make sure you get getting fuel which it sounds like you are. you shouldn;t need starting fluid at all, just make sure the battery is charged well and get everything hooked up, once its running get a timing light on that thing and set it correctly then you can start bleeding the coolant and checking for leaks while you let it idle for awhile. good luck!

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LSDrift
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:54 am
Car: 1990 RS13 RB25

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Yeah wiring was one variable I wanted to take out seeing as it's the first swap I've ever done so I bought the pre-made harness from Wiring Specialties. But the idea behind my starter fluid was just to see if it had spark. After a few short idles it started to start itself even without starter fluid, albeit they were hard starts. But yeah next step is to get the exhaust hooked up this week and potentially intercooler piping. I'm not really sure what to do about that though...the exhaust place I talked to said they could do it but I'm not sure if they have a mandrel.

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LSDrift
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:54 am
Car: 1990 RS13 RB25

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So, narrowed the problem down a little...fuel pump fuse kept blowing so I upgraded to a 15amp. Not 100% sure if that's the ideal solution but the search isn't working right now and that's what I've found on Zilvia etc. So now it'll start up after cranking it for much longer than should be necessary. And when it finally decides to kick on it'll idle up for a short amount of time and then die right away. Could timing still be the issue here? I'm going to leave the battery on the charger on a low charge all night and try again in the morning to see if it just isn't getting enough spark. Otherwise I'm not really sure what it could be outside of an ECU problem or possibly bad injector(s)?

Oh, also there are still no codes coming from the ECU so everything is good in that department unless like I said, possible bad ECU.

Any input is appreciated!

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LSDrift
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:54 am
Car: 1990 RS13 RB25

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Ok just went out and disconnected the fuel rail from the intake manifold and had someone crank the engine for me. Fuel injectors aren't spraying any fuel...So it's either the FPR or there's not enough fuel pressure reaching the regulator? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge and can't get one over the weekend here but is there one that can be used from NAPA or something like that? Could the FPR be just stuck from sitting for so long before I installed the motor? I'm at a loss for the moment here... :gotme

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LSDrift
Posts: 200
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:54 am
Car: 1990 RS13 RB25

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SCRATCH THAT!!!! IT'S ALIVEEEEEEEE!!!!! ...in my rush to put it together, I switched my fuel lines on the fuel rail! Drrrrrrr...but it runs beautifully now! Still might need a little timing but otherwise it's purrrrfect!!! :woot: :woot:

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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I screwed up my CAS by bolting it to the CAS holder with no cam cover or spacer. It worked intermittantly until I replaced it. Solved lots of my problems.

When you bolt it down with no spacer it jams the disk into the sensor, damaging it. I donno just throwing stuff out there. Either you have no fuel pressure or no signal.

Edit- doh thats not too bad a fix! I had ADD kick in and left this window open for a while. Glad you got it fixed.

~Alex


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