Rotarygwoods wrote: What would you do with a pretty much free Miata??
Put in a roll bar, swap to a manual, install Toyo RA1's and then two words....spec Miata.gwoods wrote: What would you do with a pretty much free Miata??
dre1507 wrote:You could always "ruin the perfect balance" with an aluminum block v8 from the government.
Kompresshun wrote:AWESOME. Congrats on the sweet deal!
Wanna swap seats? MOMO CORSE racing buckets and 5 point harnesses
HOLY CRAP! Was it a real brand or a Harbor Freight bar? Sounds like that engine had catastrophic failure. Pull the drain plug for the oil and see if what condition its in, or if there is even any in there. It may have a blown HG and hydrolocked and rusted the rings to the walls.gwoods wrote: First got to get it running. I soaked the cylinders in PB blaster last night via the spark plug holes and then tapped the pistons with a hammer and very long screw driver this am. I broke a 3/8 breaker bar on the crank pulley nut trying to turn the motor over. I'll give the PB blaster a bit more time.
JEESH. And it still wouldn't turn?gwoods wrote:Harbor freight but in its defense I also had a four foot lead pipe over it
Not always. Lots of AZ cars are very well maintained.Looneybomber wrote:So AZ cars. No rust, but the paint, plastics, tops, and interiors all bake to a crisp.
NolimitZ32 wrote:true, but i'll take baked paint to rusted body any day.
The Miata threads killed it for me too. I bought one nearly a week after Jesda made his thread.gwoods wrote:Yep. Don't cruise craigslist for one like I did all these Miata threads killed it for me.
My motor should be delivered today and it was $50. It's a long block ( no accessories) it has crank key way damage on a 4/10 scale and is glue able. BUT it comes with a good undamage crank so I will swap them and the bearings. Would you replace the head gasket? It has a new timing belt. The guy found the key way damage when he was changing his timing belt. He picked up a good used crank. Then decided to buy a new long block direct from Mazda. Someone who does things that way will have kept this motor maintained.
Do you guys think I should swap the crank or glue the marginally damaged one?
And fried rubber hoses, brake lines, tires, and electronic components as discovered after buying a Buick and Cadillac there.Looneybomber wrote:So AZ cars. No rust, but the paint, plastics, tops, and interiors all bake to a crisp. Trade-offs with everything I guess.
Pretty common knowledge around these parts. You have much to learn, Grasshopper.Jesda wrote:And fried rubber hoses, brake lines, tires, and electronic components as discovered after buying a Buick and Cadillac there.Looneybomber wrote:So AZ cars. No rust, but the paint, plastics, tops, and interiors all bake to a crisp. Trade-offs with everything I guess.
Geriatric cars tend to sit, idling, with the A/C on, and no airflow through the grille. The 50-lbs of heat/sound insulation around the engine doesn't help matters one bit. We saw this a lot with early Q's, but it's the case with big German cars as well.Jesda wrote:And fried rubber hoses, brake lines, tires, and electronic components as discovered after buying a Buick and Cadillac there.