Hey Guys!
New to the forum! Been trying to get a Z32 for about 6 years now. Everytime I'd get ready to pull the trigger something always got in the way. Have big build plans for this car, but for now it is going to be my daily driver. Looking forward talking with some guys who know something about the brand for once!
I'm from Sioux Falls, SD. If anyone else is in the area and wants to meet up and cruise I'd be up for it. Hit me up!
Will post a pic of my Z in a few!
New Member
Re: New Member
There she is!
Still on the fence about the Ferrari tail light swap. Deciding whether to:
1.keep them as is
2.keep them but tint the red accent above black
3. keep them and tint the tail lights, reverse lights and accent black, or to swap them for the normal z tail lights (and possibly tint them)
4.or to go for something entirely custom and different.
Let me know what you guys think! Always looking for input.
Still on the fence about the Ferrari tail light swap. Deciding whether to:
1.keep them as is
2.keep them but tint the red accent above black
3. keep them and tint the tail lights, reverse lights and accent black, or to swap them for the normal z tail lights (and possibly tint them)
4.or to go for something entirely custom and different.
Let me know what you guys think! Always looking for input.
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nissanfreak12
- Posts: 1709
- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
- Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
- Location: Denver, CO
Re: New Member
I'm pretty sure they will ban you if you keep the tail light swap........but seriously, don't. Seen them in person. HIDEOUS!!!
I knwo everyone wants something different about thier Z, but with the tail lights, nothing really looks that well as why either keep them stock or JDM. Personally, they may not look so bad if they were flush and not protruding out, I guess never cared for the "Altezza" look.
Do like the front lip though, that looks good.
I knwo everyone wants something different about thier Z, but with the tail lights, nothing really looks that well as why either keep them stock or JDM. Personally, they may not look so bad if they were flush and not protruding out, I guess never cared for the "Altezza" look.
Do like the front lip though, that looks good.
Re: New Member
I actually thought something like this looked pretty cool.
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NolimitZ32
- Posts: 7042
- Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
- Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
- Location: Houston, TX
Re: New Member
^those are R32 tails fitted to a Z32. Welcome aboard.
Re: New Member
^^^kinda what I was thinking lol. Thanks for the welcome!
I was checking out a bunch of different ideas for lights earlier and found this picture...
I have a few ideas of how I could make this concept into the real deal and I really like it. I'll of course have to add my own personal touch.
I was checking out a bunch of different ideas for lights earlier and found this picture...
I have a few ideas of how I could make this concept into the real deal and I really like it. I'll of course have to add my own personal touch.
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Ziggy1621
- Posts: 1137
- Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:57 pm
- Car: '90 Z32 TT (Shibui)
'90 Z32 2+0 NA
'68 311 Roadster
2004 Rx330
2011 BMW 550i (TT) - Location: Cocoa, Florida
- Contact:
Re: New Member
Awesome!! Welcome to Nico!!!
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z.Leinbach
- Posts: 504
- Joined: Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:08 pm
- Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX NA T-top
- Location: Kennewick, Wa
- Contact:
Re: New Member
How much work does it take to set a pair of those puppies up
Re: New Member
I think I will make a thread when I am done with my tail lights. Isn't too hard so far, just takes some time, a lot of thinking, and TONS of creativity. The best way to do this would be to custom mold your own tail light housings out of fiberglass or some other form of ceramic or plastic, but I am getting the same effect out of some common household plastic items to save some money. You will need either individual L.E.D.s and a circuit board to put them in a pattern, or you can do like I did and use some L.E.D. strips that you can get off of eBay.
The strips labeled "5050" are the brightest, but are usually spaced farther apart than the 3000 series lights, which emit less light, but come packet tighter together. You will also want to check how many L.E.D.s are in each strip. Usually they will be sold in lengths of about 15 feet and have either 600 or 300 L.E.D.s within that 15 feet. Usually the 3000s series will come in the 600 per 15 feet string since they can be placed closer together, and the 5050 series will usually come in a string of 300 per 15 feet due to their increased heat output (Which is still less than a regular or halogen bulb).
Then you just have to decide on a design, and find some way of mounting that design so a mold. I am using solid sheets of 1/8th inch acrylic as my backing plate, and another piece as the lens to cover the L.E.D.s when done. Then I will be using tail light tinter to conceal the wiring and molding underneath by tinting the outer panel of acrylic. You can also buy the acrylic in a black color that will still show light through, but as I bought most of my parts online I wasn't sure how dark this would be, and chose to just tint mine myself.
You will also need to have some basic electrical knowledge to wire up some resistors inline with your brake and running light wires before connecting them to your L.E.D.s (I can explain this more in depth later). The purpose of the resistors is to make the L.E.D.s appear dimmer when you want to use them as a running light, and to amp up the flow to make them brighter when you press the brake pedal.
I will make a thread and post pictures as soon as I finish my own lights. Glad to see that my project has some interest. Might be a way to make some money outside of work if people like them. They are relatively cheap to make, so far I am in mine less than $75, and that includes buying a bunch of new wire spools, connectors, electrical tape, a soldering gun, and a bunch of solder (which most people already have). I would say if you already have the tools you could make these lights for around $50 and have lots of left-over L.E.D.s and wiring material.
The strips labeled "5050" are the brightest, but are usually spaced farther apart than the 3000 series lights, which emit less light, but come packet tighter together. You will also want to check how many L.E.D.s are in each strip. Usually they will be sold in lengths of about 15 feet and have either 600 or 300 L.E.D.s within that 15 feet. Usually the 3000s series will come in the 600 per 15 feet string since they can be placed closer together, and the 5050 series will usually come in a string of 300 per 15 feet due to their increased heat output (Which is still less than a regular or halogen bulb).
Then you just have to decide on a design, and find some way of mounting that design so a mold. I am using solid sheets of 1/8th inch acrylic as my backing plate, and another piece as the lens to cover the L.E.D.s when done. Then I will be using tail light tinter to conceal the wiring and molding underneath by tinting the outer panel of acrylic. You can also buy the acrylic in a black color that will still show light through, but as I bought most of my parts online I wasn't sure how dark this would be, and chose to just tint mine myself.
You will also need to have some basic electrical knowledge to wire up some resistors inline with your brake and running light wires before connecting them to your L.E.D.s (I can explain this more in depth later). The purpose of the resistors is to make the L.E.D.s appear dimmer when you want to use them as a running light, and to amp up the flow to make them brighter when you press the brake pedal.
I will make a thread and post pictures as soon as I finish my own lights. Glad to see that my project has some interest. Might be a way to make some money outside of work if people like them. They are relatively cheap to make, so far I am in mine less than $75, and that includes buying a bunch of new wire spools, connectors, electrical tape, a soldering gun, and a bunch of solder (which most people already have). I would say if you already have the tools you could make these lights for around $50 and have lots of left-over L.E.D.s and wiring material.