new member, not new to the R50 platform but have some lift questions

[zmanqx4]

Hello fellow R50 owners

I previously had a 98 QX4 for a couple years, just picked up a nearly identical 98 QX4 and planning some OEM+ upgrades after the routine maintenance. First thing on my mind is a "slight" lift to replace the aging suspension. It's got less than 160k miles but it's something I always wanted to do with my last R50.

I've watched all Tyler's videos, I've scanned this forum and NPORA. I've decided I will stick with the tried and true rear setup of 9447s and 5100s.

1) First question is regarding the front. I do not want to risk topping out with AC springs. This will be a daily grocery getter mall crawler, but perhaps if I end up building a somewhat capable machine, I may want to take it off roading - NO ROCK CRAWLING for the foreseeable future though! Don't have many rocky trails near me. I mostly like the look for aesthetic reasons. I do not plan to go higher than 2".

So I have saved links to the 3 OME springs, light/med/heavy. My goal would be for as close to a level ride as possible to match the rear. Not a fan of the raked look. I have no plans for anything heavy other than a front bumper/grille guard (stock looking style). Which springs would best be suited to match the rear lift? Or should I do a small spacer lift from SF Creations if I don't really plan to go off-road with newer OEM spec springs? Or in combination with the OME springs?

2) Second question is regarding the front struts. I will be getting KYB. I see on RockAuto they have the GR2 Excel G-strut. This is what I need correct? I see GR2s elsewhere like 4x4 parts but would prefer not to buy from them, they look slightly different in the pictures.

3) Final question is what else do I need? After watching one of Tyler's videos he mentioned a missing link? His youtube link led to a dead page. Will this be needed for the height I'm aiming for? Other items I'm thinking of changing out but would like some input on part #s or sources to purchase:

• missing link aka control arm brace
• all the bushings
• bearings
• trailing arms
• control arms
• camber bolts/alignment kit
• should I get new CV axles since I don't know the condition of the current ones?
• will I really need manual hubs?

Anything else I'm missing that should be changed/replaced while the rest of the suspension gets upgraded? Thank you in advance!

[mdmellott]

If you are going to lift the rear end by installing springs with a higher compression rate, do the same thing with the front end instead of installing lift spacers with standard springs. Lifting reduces stability in turns, if the springs are light weight.

The KYB Excel-G struts are a decent choice. I've been using those on my '02 PF for many years.

I have looked into the "missing link" several years ago. Although it may be a good upgrade to have on an offroad rock crawler and more stability over very rough terrain, it isn't going to be a feature that benefits a daily driver. Others here have commented on this as well.
installed-the-missing-link-aka-control- ... 33661.html
Perhaps it would make a difference, to make a lift more stable, given the CG is higher when lifted and more prone to rolling. If you can still find them, it's a low cost easy install. The supplier, Jackson AutoSport, linked in the post above is no longer in business. http://jacsport.com/

New OE bushings, bearings, ball joints and tie rods (whatever is worn out and sloppy) will tighten up the responsive handling on or off the road. There are way too many garbage aftermarket replacements for these parts.

New OE bushings pressed into the front and rear control arms is going to be more reliable than most of the fully assembled "China cheap" aftermarket junk.

Camber bolt add-ons are not going to be necessary if you are only lifting a couple of inches. The R50 models were not designed with camber adjustment. This modification is a bit sketchy, but for very high lifts it is needed to keep the wheels properly aligned. You can always add them later, if it's an issue.

Don't fix what isn't broke. Repack the grease in the CV joints and then decide if they are worn out.

The manual locking hubs have saved me a good 3mpg in fuel consumption. When I rarely need 4WD, it's no big deal to get out and lock the hubs before shifting into 4WD, otherwise it's free spinning all the time and not wasting energy turning the frontend power train that is not being used. Your All-Mode transmission setup has a bit more complexity. I am not sure how the TCM will react. Probably no issue at all as long you always have the selector turned to 2WD when the manual hubs are not locked.

Best of luck to you with your build.

[mdmellott]

I found SF Creation may still have the control arm crosslink upgrade. https://sfcreation.com/product/r50-cont ... ink-96-04/

[zmanqx4]

If you are going to lift the rear end by installing springs with a higher compression rate, do the same thing with the front end instead of installing lift spacers with standard springs. Lifting reduces stability in turns, if the springs are light weight.

The KYB Excel-G struts are a decent choice. I've been using those on my '02 PF for many years.

I have looked into the "missing link" several years ago. Although it may be a good upgrade to have on an offroad rock crawler and more stability over very rough terrain, it isn't going to be a feature that benefits a daily driver. Others here have commented on this as well.
installed-the-missing-link-aka-control- ... 33661.html
Perhaps it would make a difference, to make a lift more stable, given the CG is higher when lifted and more prone to rolling. If you can still find them, it's a low cost easy install. The supplier, Jackson AutoSport, linked in the post above is no longer in business. http://jacsport.com/

New OE bushings, bearings, ball joints and tie rods (whatever is worn out and sloppy) will tighten up the responsive handling on or off the road. There are way too many garbage aftermarket replacements for these parts.

New OE bushings pressed into the front and rear control arms is going to be more reliable than most of the fully assembled "China cheap" aftermarket junk.

Camber bolt add-ons are not going to be necessary if you are only lifting a couple of inches. The R50 models were not designed with camber adjustment. This modification is a bit sketchy, but for very high lifts it is needed to keep the wheels properly aligned. You can always add them later, if it's an issue.

Don't fix what isn't broke. Repack the grease in the CV joints and then decide if they are worn out.

The manual locking hubs have saved me a good 3mpg in fuel consumption. When I rarely need 4WD, it's no big deal to get out and lock the hubs before shifting into 4WD, otherwise it's free spinning all the time and not wasting energy turning the frontend power train that is not being used. Your All-Mode transmission setup has a bit more complexity. I am not sure how the TCM will react. Probably no issue at all as long you always have the selector turned to 2WD when the manual hubs are not locked.

Best of luck to you with your build.

Thank you for the detailed response!

I definitely plan on using OME springs, was just curious which type would be best for me. I don't see light duty anywhere in stock that's easily accessible. A supplier near me does have medium and heavy duty though. I think for the cost and ease of installation, it seems the missing link is something I'll likely do in the near future. SF Creations still makes them. I will wait to see what my mechanic says about the existing suspension and if anything warrants replacement.

[mdmellott]

I definitely plan on using OME springs, was just curious which type would be best for me.

I'm curious to know what brand of springs you are referring to and what vehicle(s) they were originally made for. When I mentioned OE for several parts, I am referring to Original Equipment provided by Nissan/Infiniti. There are many OEM brands that are Original Equipment Manufactures for numerous vehicle makes and models. OME refers to a specific Original Manufacturer Equipment part made for specific vehicle makes and models, like the Land Rover NCR9447 springs you are looking at for the rear end. Nissan/Infiniti does not have light, medium, and heavy duty springs to offer for the R50 models, so I'm just curious to know what front springs are you referring to and what vehicle brand they were originally intended for.

[zmanqx4]

I definitely plan on using OME springs, was just curious which type would be best for me.

I'm curious to know what brand of springs you are referring to and what vehicle(s) they were originally made for. When I mentioned OE for several parts, I am referring to Original Equipment provided by Nissan/Infiniti. There are many OEM brands that are Original Equipment Manufactures for numerous vehicle makes and models. OME refers to a specific Original Manufacturer Equipment part made for specific vehicle makes and models, like the Land Rover NCR9447 springs you are looking at for the rear end. Nissan/Infiniti does not have light, medium, and heavy duty springs to offer for the R50 models, so I'm just curious to know what front springs are you referring to and what vehicle brand they were originally intended for.

I'm referring to Old Man Emu for the front springs. I understand what OEM means, but the point of my post was to ask about the front springs in regards to lifting. I have the below part #s for OME springs made for the R50 platform:

light duty ARB2921
medium duty ARB2923
heavy duty ARB2928

After some other discussions and lack of availability for the light duty, it seems medium duty will meet my needs.

[mdmellott]

I'm referring to Old Man Emu for the front springs.

Oh me! Oh my! Missed that one without an acronym thesaurus in my head.