New key FOB... still don't work

[J30tman]

Got a new keyless entry remote for the J30 off of ebay today. I can't get it to work. They sent the instructions with it and they match the instructions I got from here or another J30 forum. I know I followed the instructions perfectly, hell, I did it 50 times. After I went through the steps and unlocked/locked the door manually I heard a click in the dash. I thought I was golden then, but still no worky. Can you guys think of what might be wrong with the car that wont let it program? Thanks

[driverdriver]

My advice hit your local Infiniti dealer around 3pm in the afternoon when they've finished working on cars and just before people are coming back to claim their cars. Ask the service advisor for help nicely(bring your instructions) and they'll program your remote for free (they do it like that up here) .

[J30tman]

I will use the dealer as a last resort. Not the most friendly people here.

When you guys have set up new remotes, do you hear the click in the dash after you go through all the steps? Does it beep when you press the button on the remote?

[J30tman]

Nobody else has had this issue?

[gr8scott72]

I can't get remotes to work with my 94 to save my life either.

[J30tman]

I can't get remotes to work with my 94 to save my life either.

I knew I read that someone else had this problem. Now, we need to figure it out. I looked up the fuse in the manual that is in the trunk and it is hooked in with the clock. My clock is working so it can't be the fuse. I wonder if there is some kind of relay or something for it.

[rbb117]

I have the EXACT same problem. I'm going to try the dealer at 3 PM option & let you know. It was like $50 for the after market FOB and thru Infinity was around $125 as I recall!

Ron Bailey1994 J30T

[StevieRaySTL]

I had the same problem with my 93, I had one fob, swapped it out at a locksmith for another that wouldn't work either. So a few months later when I lost my keyset, I called everywhere looking for a titanium OEM key with very little results. Eventually I got a tip from a local dealership that this locksmith had one in his van. I called him and he wanted $100 for it, so I asked him to reprogram my fob. Dude tried to program it for an hour at least, then traded it for another he had in his truck & it worked fine. I suggest swapping at local locksmiths and they will help you program it.

[J30tman]

What is the code on the back of your key fob? Mine is A269ZJAC73. Do I have the wrong one?

[StevieRaySTL]

Code shouldn't matter, just try new ones and one will eventually work. They just go bad it seems, third time was a charm for me, GL.

[J30tman]

I got this one from ebay about 1-2 monthes ago. I have the original one too. neither one will do anything.

[StevieRaySTL]

Had the same prob. with the first two I tried as well, somehow third try worked. Try locksmiths. GL.

[rclem7]

Update, this remote absolutly is wrong for the J's!!!

Some people on ebay and other places say the following remote will work with my car, but I can't get it to program. Does anyone have the same remote that works with their J30? Mine's a 95.

FCC: A269ZUA078ISC: 700 K1359

It came from a 99 Nissam Maxima.
Modified by rclem7 at 4:27 PM 3/11/2008

[yodawill2000]

I know Zippo about remotes but my buddy LittleWillie does.He emailed me this last night, as well as some procedures I will post shortly.

"The remotes that will work with our cars should have FCC ID: A269ZJA073. Anything wireless will have a sender (transmitter) & receiver. In our cars, the remote is the sender & the receiver is on the car. The sender & receiver have to be on the same frequency to work. It’s like trying to use a Sony TV remote on a Samsung TV. Unless both use the same frequency, it will not work. "

[rclem7]

New discovery and question. Thanks Yoda for the info, it gave me an idea to check, and I was correct. If you pull down the lining in the trunk to have access to the receiver, you will see the info for the required remote. There is a sticker on the receiver box with the information. Mine is as follows:

FCC ID: A269ZUA072DOC/MDC 700K922

This leads me to my next question, Does the FCC ID realy mean anything? or just the DOC/MDC number? Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the FCC number just a certification number for the remote? I have found some remotes with the same DOC number, but the last digit in the FCC number is a 3 insted of a 2 like mine. Will it matter?

Thanks guys for all your help!

[yodawill2000]

From what Willie told me the above # is what we need for our J's.

[yodawill2000]

Heres the Procedure I got fro Willie .

FOB Programming Instructions 1REPROGRAM KEY FOB QX4, 1997-2004 Q45, I30, I35, 1999-2002 G20, FX, G35, M45, Most Nissan VehiclesThe horn chirp can be disable by pressing the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously until the hazard lights flash, and no enable press the lock and unlock until the horn chirp. To reprogram (enter new ID) key fob (keyless remote controller) follow the steps. 1. Close all doors and lock all doors 2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition key cylinder more than six timeswithin 10 seconds. The hazard-warning lamp will then flash. NOTE: Key should be withdrawn from ignition key cylinder completely each time. NOTE: Do Not rush the insertion/removal key cycling process. The side marker/tail/license lamps and interior illumination will flash twice when this stepis accurately completed. 3. Insert key on ignition key cylinder and turn ignition key switch to "AAC"position. At this time, the new ID code is entered and original (previous) IDcodes are erased. 4. Press any button on the new remote controller once. (The hazard warninglamp will then flash) NOTE: Do Not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not besuccessful. The side marker/tail/license lamps and interior illumination willflash twice when this step is accurately completed and programming issuccessful. If there is only one remote controller skip step 5. 5. Additional ID code entry: Release the door lock, then lock again with door lock/unlock switch (In power window main switch) 6. Remove key from ignition 7. Unlock driver side door, open driver side door and then close the door.(END) NOTE: If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure on step 5 "Additional ID code entry" for each new remotecontroller. NOTE: Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more willbe ignored.FOB Programming Instructions 2Enter the identity (ID) code manually when: remote controller or multi-remote control unit LCU05 is replaced. an additional remote controller is activated. ID Code Entry Procedure To enter the ID code, follow this procedure. Entering "Setting mode": (1) Close and lock all doors. (2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard-warning lamp will then flash twice.) At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated. ID code entry: (3) Turn ignition key to "ACC" position. (4) Push lock button on the new remote controller once (for example, if door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry enable state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard-warning lamp will then flash twice.) Additional ID code entry (5) If you need to activate additional remote controllers, unlock the driver's door, then lock again with door lock knob. (6) Push lock button on the additional new remote controller once. (7) This ID code entry enable state and setting mode remain until the driver's door is opened. NOTE If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote controller. If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored. Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored. Any ID codes entered after termination of the "setting mode" will not be accepted. Additionally remote control signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the "setting" mode.FOB Programming Instructions 3To reprogram (enter new ID) key fob (keyless remote controller) follow the steps.1. Close all doors and lock all doors2. From the door switch unlock the trunk.3. Insert and remove the key from the ignition key cylinder six times within 10 seconds. NOTE: Key should be withdrawn from ignition key cylinder completely each time.NOTE: Do not rush the insertion/removal key cycling process. The side marker/tail/license lamps and interior illumination will flash twice when this step is accurately completed.NOTE: At this time, the new ID code is entered and original (previous) ID codes are erased.4. Manually unlock and lock the driver side door5. Push any button on the new remote controller once.If there is only one remote controller skip step 6.6. Additional ID code entry Repeat step 4 and 57. END.

[Defiant]

This leads me to my next question, Does the FCC ID realy mean anything?

The FCC ID # is everything. The receiver will only learn the signal from that matching number. The remotes are dumb; it's the unit in the car that learns to listen for that specific fob.For reasons entirely undetermined, mine has a range of about 200 feet, the most remarkable remote I've run across on any car. Something just came out "right".

[StevieRaySTL]

The remotes are dumb

-- And they go bad. My J came with two non working remotes, and for almost three years I'd periodically attempt those 'procedures' mentioned above, the previous owner even printed them out for me when I bought her. Not only did I feel like a clown while doing it, but it never worked. One night last spring I got a little grogged and lost my keyset, so naturally I was a little bummed when I couldn't find a replacement titanium Master, apparently Infiniti no longer makes 'em. After a couple days looking, I got a cell phone # from a parts guy at the stealership for a local locksmith that had one, he'd gotten it for a customer and it wasn't the right part. This is right after I talked to the same locksmith's shop, presumably the owner, who told me that he didn't have one and even if he did, he wouldn't cut it, on account of the titanium ruining his machine. So I put in a call to Eric the locksmith and and he said he'd do it for a hundred bux, cause the key wasn't cheap and he couldn't write a receipt due to his boss. Now at this point I'm a little steamed because that's an awful lot of cheese for a key, and I feel like he's ripping me off. So I struck up a deal with him, program my remotes and I'll pony up, heheh. I kid you not this dude worked on it for over an hour, at night, in a hard rain, using that same crazy process Yoda posted, went through at least three or four remotes, and eventually, one worked, I kept it and gave him the two I had. He cut the key and I gladly relinquished the Benjamin, no buyer's remorse at all. Gotta love the J, she always seems to present a challenge, funny part is, my g/f went to the bar three days later and found my old keyset, oh well. The new key looks 10x better than the old one with all the titanium rubbed off, and let's face it I'd spend a hundy on dinner and drinks any given Friday. So the moral of the story is find a locksmith and have him try all the remotes he has, cross your fingers, and bring cash. Thanx for reading and good luck.

[rclem7]

New discovery and question. Thanks Yoda for the info, it gave me an idea to check, and I was correct. If you pull down the lining in the trunk to have access to the receiver, you will see the info for the required remote. There is a sticker on the receiver box with the information. Mine is as follows:

FCC ID: A269ZUA072DOC/MDC 700K922

This leads me to my next question, Does the FCC ID realy mean anything? or just the DOC/MDC number? Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the FCC number just a certification number for the remote? I have found some remotes with the same DOC number, but the last digit in the FCC number is a 3 insted of a 2 like mine. Will it matter?

Thanks guys for all your help!

Update on this situation. I decided to order the other remote I found with the "3" on the end of the obove FCC# instead of the "2". It programmed with out any problems. I also understand that remotes with a "J" instead of a "U" also work, but is the reciever number different as well? or the same? I think if everyone is willing, pull the foward panel down in the trunk on the left (drivers) side and check the receiver number and compare it with your remotes and post your findings here. This will help with much of the confussion with what works with what. I'm especialy curious to the remotes with "J" and the receiver #. Keep in mind that the DOC# was still the same on the remote I bought.

[rclem7]

I will start this off. My receiver and remote are as follows:

Receiver:FCC ID: A269ZUA072DOC/MDC 700K922

Remote:FCC ID: A269ZUA073DOC/MDC 700K922

The only differance is the last number in the FCC ID#.

[yodawill2000]

Can you elaborate on where the receiver is ??I pulled the drivers side back cover down a bit and all I saw was the Gas Tank.Is it more towards the Center ?

[rclem7]

Can you elaborate on where the receiver is ??I pulled the drivers side back cover down a bit and all I saw was the Gas Tank.Is it more towards the Center ?

Sorry, I could have been more specific. The receiver is located on the outside wall above the drivers rear tire. There is a sticker on the face of it with the all the FCC information.

[Victor]

My key fob remote works with my 94 J30T and the FCC code is A269ZJA073 and the DOC/MDC is 700K922, except for the lock/unlock, but I think that's a problem with the locks themselves.

My daughter's key fob for her 2000 Q45T doesn't work, and the FCC number is KBRAZU07. Anyone know if this is the correct remote for the car. I tried the reprogramming procedure but it didn't work.

Neither remote beeps when I press the buttons, are they supposed to beep?

[alex61089]

Jesus.. I thought i was the only one with this problem haha.

[HowlerMonkey]

One thing on the programming process that somebody was nice enough to post above......

If you anything wrong with your door, hood or trunk switches, you may not be able to program unless the happen to be broken in the state required by the system.

I've watched many techs pull their hair out only to find that someone had slim jimm'd the car once and yanked wire or switch off of a cylinder or an aftermarket alarm system caused a state change on a switch.

[Victor]

Guess what, I was vacuuming out my daughter's Q45T for her and what should I find in the rear seat ash tray but a second key fob. This one works, and it has the same FCC code KBRASZU07 as the fob that doesn't work. So that FCC code is correct for a 2000 Q45T. It has a label on it that says KANSEI Corp.

[Gerardjg]

I just picked up this aftermarket one on E-Bay and it works fine on the 97

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...%3AIT

[J30inthe sun]

I just picked up this aftermarket one on E-Bay and it works fine on the 97

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...%3AIT

That's the same exact one I bought off ebay from the same seller & it work perfectly on my 97 J. I only wish they would have put the trunk release a little further away from the other buttons, I find myself accidentally hitting it frequently & popping the trunk.

I don't know why they designed the original FOB with that plastic arc on the top that the metal key ring goes around. I dropped my keys on the floor & the plastic broke in half, crazy glued it several times until finally it broke into several pieces, guess I need to hold onto my keys better!