Hey guys....just got a steal. Bought a rear end wrecked 93 hatch with a built KAT. Supposedly it runs high 12's (has not been verified). It is very quick. I will be swapping everything into my coupe. The turbo it is running is a GT40!!! I am not sure of the trim. What BOV do you guys use? I don't want a loud one, but a nice one. The engine was built with JE turbo pistons...all new timing stuff, new bearings, was balanced and blueprinted....Only has 4500 MILES on it.
Is anyone else running a GT40?
New KAT'er Few ???'s
Re: New KAT'er Few ???'s (240sxOwner)
How much did you get it for?
Please tell me about the gear you have. I want more top end.
Please tell me about the gear you have. I want more top end.
Re: New KAT'er Few ???'s (Edub1)
What's wrong with the bov that's on there now?
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240sxOwner
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- Car: 93 240sx
I do not have the gears anymore...But i loved them while i had them. They were 4.64 from Nismo absolutely bad-***. Had car lengths on my friends stock 240.
I paid 2500 for the whole car. It also has brembo front brake upgrade lsd with a lower gear (supposedly)...
It is a cheap bov, not activating correctly (barely blowing off at full boost shift
I paid 2500 for the whole car. It also has brembo front brake upgrade lsd with a lower gear (supposedly)...
It is a cheap bov, not activating correctly (barely blowing off at full boost shift
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240sxOwner
- Posts: 495
- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 11:37 am
- Car: 93 240sx
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240sxOwner
- Posts: 495
- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 11:37 am
- Car: 93 240sx
here you go jook http://www.courtesyparts.com/nms/s13/s13_4.html
Re: (240sxOwner)
Excuse my ignorance but I've always been confused about how they express gear ratios. We have a 4:1 or something so the motor spins 4 times for every time the wheels spin correct?240sxOwner wrote:i just went to my local nissan dealer and asked for them...they were 550 for the ring and pinion. If you are turbo those gears are not for you. You can also get them from courtesy nissan i believe
Your gear works how?
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Iamjohnhayes
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- Car: 89 Single Cam Hatch
Re: (Edub1)
hey if you can give me the ar of the intake and exhaust housings i could probably help you out a bit, b/c i did plan on using that turbo for a while. its a nice straight t4 turbo but you may have to short shift to stop the turbo from choking (breaking up). if you plan on running less than about 10 psi of boost (the max most sidemonts hold) plan on shifting around 5200 rpms to save the turbo. also do you know if stock rods were used on the build.
Re: (Iamjohnhayes)
Dude, what the hell are you talking about?
LMAO!!!!!!
LMAO!!!!!!
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240sxOwner
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- Car: 93 240sx
i don't know exactly what the gear ratio is in terms of engine rpm...but this is the rear end gear (in the pumpkin)...The stock 4.08 gear lasts longer between shifts, the 4.64 is the highest available for the 240, you accelerate quicker and shift more. For turbo you want a 4.08 or lower so the power can bring you through the rpm range. I am not sure what ratio the turbo it nor do i know what trim. As soon as i know, i will post it.
Im a little lost when it comes to the shifting thing too....lol
Im a little lost when it comes to the shifting thing too....lol
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240sxOwner
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- Car: 93 240sx
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Iamjohnhayes
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- Car: 89 Single Cam Hatch
Re: (Edub1)
I was wondering what the A/R of the housings were so i could look up a compressor map more accurately.Edub1 wrote:Dude, what the hell are you talking about?
LMAO!!!!!!
I did at one time ponder the thought of usung a gt40 turbo because arizona z cars is selling some slightly used ones for about $400.
The problem i found was that the turbo will surge before it has a chance to spool up.
the pink line represents 10 psi of bost and the green line is 18psi both line represent full boost assume it starts at 3500 rpms (highly unlikely) and ends at rither 6000 or 6200 rpm (i did the math a few months ago)
o and i retract my previous statements when i wrote that i was looking at a different compressor map on my comp. my bad.
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Iamjohnhayes
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- Car: 89 Single Cam Hatch
Re: (Iamjohnhayes)
it really does suck that the turbo surges b/c it does land right in the sweet spot of efficiency when you hit the redline
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C-Kwik
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While part of this thread is getting off topic, it should be said that numerically higher gearing is actually a lower gearing. And a final gear(rear end gear in this case) requires that the input is spun as many times as the gearing number to get the wheels t make 1 revolution. But it actually multplies transmission output, not engine output.
Secondly, if you are looking for more top end, you need a numerically lower gear. Keep in mind though, this doesn't equate to more top end power. Only a higher top speed being possible, so long as the motor has enough power to get past the aerodynamic drag. A lower rear end gear does not change the average accelleration rate at higher speeds. It only gives you higher torque multiplication in each gear, but with lower max speeds for each gear. So 1st gear is really the only place you see a difference. Notice the ET and trap speed he listed. While the ET went don since he can get out of the whole quicker, he's not gaining any more speed. Trap speed tends to change very little from a final gear ratio change.
If you want more top end acceleration or a higher top speed the most feasible solution is to increase power output. Another would be to reduce aerodynamic drag, but a DIYer will likely have limited resources to see what works and what doesn't. Lastly, if it's a top speed you want, there is a way to play with gearing to squeeze a few mph out. The topp few gears would need to be spaced quite closely. You would choose the gear ratios so thatas you start approaching the aerodynamic limits of each gear(given torque output at the wheels at the terminal speed, you shift to the next gear dropping you only enough to put you in a fatter part of the powerband. Perhaps where wheel torque will increase slightly. Problem is to have a gear set like this, you would typically need gears spaced far apart in the lower gears, which would make things rather uncomfortable. These are tricks used by teams trying to break top speed records and perhaps by race cars that are being run on a high speed oval. And this would be something done primarily at the transmission and not the rear end gear.
Secondly, if you are looking for more top end, you need a numerically lower gear. Keep in mind though, this doesn't equate to more top end power. Only a higher top speed being possible, so long as the motor has enough power to get past the aerodynamic drag. A lower rear end gear does not change the average accelleration rate at higher speeds. It only gives you higher torque multiplication in each gear, but with lower max speeds for each gear. So 1st gear is really the only place you see a difference. Notice the ET and trap speed he listed. While the ET went don since he can get out of the whole quicker, he's not gaining any more speed. Trap speed tends to change very little from a final gear ratio change.
If you want more top end acceleration or a higher top speed the most feasible solution is to increase power output. Another would be to reduce aerodynamic drag, but a DIYer will likely have limited resources to see what works and what doesn't. Lastly, if it's a top speed you want, there is a way to play with gearing to squeeze a few mph out. The topp few gears would need to be spaced quite closely. You would choose the gear ratios so thatas you start approaching the aerodynamic limits of each gear(given torque output at the wheels at the terminal speed, you shift to the next gear dropping you only enough to put you in a fatter part of the powerband. Perhaps where wheel torque will increase slightly. Problem is to have a gear set like this, you would typically need gears spaced far apart in the lower gears, which would make things rather uncomfortable. These are tricks used by teams trying to break top speed records and perhaps by race cars that are being run on a high speed oval. And this would be something done primarily at the transmission and not the rear end gear.
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240sxOwner
- Posts: 495
- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 11:37 am
- Car: 93 240sx
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240sxOwner
- Posts: 495
- Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 11:37 am
- Car: 93 240sx
Another question...I am swapping all of this good stuff into my 240....I have a fidanza light weight flywheel and i wanna put it on the turbo engine. The clutch only has 4500 miles on it, but everyone keeps telling me i should just put a new clutch in while i am at it. Should i get a new disk or get a new clutch all together. I think it is a centerforce dual friction in there. The only problem is that i would say the torque is around 310 or so....that is reaching the limits of the centerforce. If i should get a new one...what clutch should i get? Experiances with good clutches?