New Infiniti Q45 owner needs help - Alternator (?) Issues

[JoeGarcia91]

Hello Guys, nice to meet you all. My name is Joe and I am from a border city in Mexico.
I purchased a used Infiniti Q45 1998 for 1300 dollars this January, the car looked to be in perfect shape, aside from some suspension issues because of the last owner putting 20 inch rims on it and rolling with them for at least 3-4 years, which I promptly sold and aquired 16 inch ones (from a Ford Mustang 2007) but with Infiniti centers (the plastic thingies that go in the center of the wheel) which I found in some obscure Swapmeet. And also fixed the suspension issues as much as I could.

Now, the car has 175000 miles on it, which would seem like a lot, but I did my research on the car before purchasing it, and found out dozens of Q45s with more than 400000 miles on them, still running like a dream, which also was the case of mine.

As soon as I purchased it, I replaced the spark plugs with new platinum ones, did an oil change, oil filter change, fuel filter change, air filter change, emptied the gas tank (the last owner used regular fuel on it) and filled it up with Premium gasoline. I also fixed some leaks in the radiator that apperead a few weeks ago, I had it plastic soldered professionally ($30 bucks spent on that one) and the leaks are fixed.

Now for the alternator issues (I think that could be the problem), today while I was going down the street to meet with some friend to watch the Mayweather - Canelo boxing match, I noticed something; the lights on the dashboard were dimming slowly, I pulled over and turned off the car to see if it was something to do with the battery poles being loose or something like that, which was not the case, but anyways, I tightened them as much as I could and brushed the poles to clean a little bit of stuff in them, it was minimal.
So, I hoped in to the car and it would NOT start when I turned the key, so I was stranded. Luckily people in this town are helpful, so 10 minutes later I had a guy to help out out, We connected the cables to jump start my car, and while it took approximately 1 minute to charge enough to be able to turn on, 2 blocks later I had the same problem, the lights started to dim until the car shut down.

Then I got home (some guy pushed me home, I was 2 miles away), I had my dad help me jumpstart the car again (I think that is the term, by jumpstarting I mean connecting his car to mine to charge the battery, then turning on my car and disconnecting the cables. So, well, the car turned on, and he told me that I would find out if it was the alternator if I disconnected a battery pole while the car was running, if it stayed running it was the battery, if it shut down it was the alternator (I really don't know if that is true, but my dad used to customize cars when he was young, so he must know.)

So that is my problem, but you have more expertise in this than me, I would really appreciate your help. How do I make for certain that it is the alternator and not something cheaper? I really can't shell out 150+ dollars on a new one, and I can't go to Junkyards in California because my Visa expired this May and I don't want to break the law by crossing illegally

[JoeGarcia91]

Any help would be very appreciated, this is my daily driver, I use it to go to college.

[OwnerCS]

Good Morning - Welcome to NICO. If this happened to my car, I would do the following:'

1) Charge The Battery - (If you don't have a battery charger, you can take it to a place that does for a charge and battery test).

2) Drive the Car to a major auto parts store like AdvanceAuto or AutoZone then get them to perform a charging system test. Parts stores do the tests for free as a service -- usually.

3) If you can't drive the car or do not want to drive the carto an AdvanceAuto or major parts store, you can take the alternator to a store where they can put it on a machine for testing.

You can rule out the battery and/or alternator as the culprit by getting a parts store to do some free testing for you.

[JoeGarcia91]

Thank you very much for your help. Also, I forgot to add one detail that might be important.
The first time I got jumpstarted, I noted some ''squealing'' noise from under the hood, which now I suppose it could have been a loose belt. Would the belt of the alternator be the only issue? Maybe just tightening it would solve the problem?

If that is the case, and even if it isn't, how do I tighten it myself?

[OwnerCS]

Did you receive any check engine lights before the car stopped running?

I've not seen a loose alternator belt (as the single cause of a squealing belt) to cause a car to completely stop running (from a charging system voltage deficit) in my 40 years of being around cars -- unless:

1) The alternator bearing is failing and the alternator shaft will not turn or barely turns causing the belt to squeal from friction as it tries to move the alternator shaft. Usually the excess friction will cause the belt to burn up (smoke) and break if friction is enough to make a belt squeal.

2) The belt is so loose or encumbered from another issue (completely worn out belt, broken belt tensioner, locked up AC compressor, other belt drive or crankshaft pulley issue) that it doesn't allow the alternator shaft be turned at a speed to charge the battery. In this case the belt usually burns up or jumps off the pulley and causes other issues like overheating.

I would try to find the squealing noise's root cause before driving the car anywhere or running the engine for an extended period of time.

[JoeGarcia91]

Did you receive any check engine lights before the car stopped running?

I have a check engine light on, but in AutoZone (where I had the car tested when I bought it) they diagnosed it as being because of a faulty O2 sensor (which I hadn't replaced because I just haven't been able to find it in Mexico, and bought directly from the Nissan dealer, it runs for 200 dollars, which is outrageous since I make that in a month.)

I've not seen a loose alternator belt (as the single cause of a squealing belt) to cause a car to completely stop running in my 40 years of being around cars

Damn, this can't be good...
Then again, I don't know how to explain it properly, it was like the car would weaken as I was driving it (as I said, after getting it jumpstarted, plus, nothing like that had ever happened until today), first the lights (in the dashboard and then the head lights) started to gradually dim, but the car would keep driving ''fine'', until it shut down. Which, with a loose belt, I guess could the reason for it, since the battery wasn't charged enough, the alternator wasn't charged enough, and it could not charge properly because of a loose belt, after all an alternator is just a dynamo with a battery isn't it? If the dynamo spins slower than the battery's energy is being consumed my common sense tells me it will more sooner than later discharge. Another thing to mention is that as, I have researched this issue for the last 8 or so hours, I found out that my 1998 Q45 uses a three belt system, in which the alternator belt apparently is independent from the other two, but they are ''interconnected'' by pulleys so they all can move.

-- unless:

1) The alternator bearing is failing and the alternator shaft will not turn or barely turns causing the belt to squeal from friction as it tries to move the alternator shaft. Usually the excess friction will cause the belt to burn up (smoke) and break if friction is enough to make a belt squeal.

But isn't a loose belt also a possible cause for a belt squealing? I was watching my AutoZone auto repair DVD and they said a loose belt would squeal

2)The belt is so loose or encumbered from another issue (completely worn out belt, broken belt tensioner, locked up AC compressor, other belt drive or crankshaft pulley issue) that it doesn't allow the alternator shaft be turned at a speed to charge the battery. In this case the belt usually burns up or jumps off the pulley and causes other issues like overheating.

I checked the belts a few minutes ago, they seem fine, not cracked, but maybe loose, I really can't tell since I don't know how tense they should be, but the squealing I heard was exactly like the one on the DVD I mentioned.

I would try to find the squealing noise's root cause before driving the car anywhere or running the engine for an extended period of time.

I sure will.

Could you tell me, or show me some pictures on how to tighten the belt?

[JoeGarcia91]

Also, i forgot to mention, I also don't believe it could be the A/C, I had it serviced at the beginning of this summer.

[OwnerCS]

Here's information page on how to change a belt on a Q45 by Elwesso. Most likely the picture is from a 90-96 model 1st generation G50. The pictures of the idler pulleys and adjusting bolts give a general description of where the tightening points are located at the link below.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/changi ... i-q45.html

Here's a document that describe the amount of deflection to allow on a belt when tightening. I try to be extra careful not to over tighten a belt on an older alternator, as it can cause the bearings to fail sooner than later. Many years ago on my 280ZX, a mechanic installed a new alternator belt and over tightened it to the point where it was like a piano string. Soon afterward the alternator bearings failed. The alternators bearings would have eventually failed no doubt, but it may have been much later had the belt not been over tightened.

Even though the check engine light is on due to a bad knock sensor code, another charging system code could now be present from a new issue. Autozone can check the codes again (along with a complete charging system and battery health check) to let you know if there is an underlying charging system issue.

[JoeGarcia91]

Thank you very much, bro; You are awesome. I will surely come back to report on the progress in a few days, right now I'll get back to do what I can to make the car run before taking it to AutoZone on Tuesday since today is Sunday and they don't open, and on Monday is Independence day in Mexico so they won't open.
Again, thank you.

[OwnerCS]

You are so welcome. Also, I updated my last post with some clarification and additional information.

Buena suerte con el coche y buena fortuna.

[JoeGarcia91]

Muchas Gracias Mi amigo.

Haha, I've been checking out that diagram, and the layout in my car for the last 3 hours, and for the love of God I swear I can't figure out where are the tensors (that thing I am looking for that tighten the belts.)

[OwnerCS]

Check out page MA-10 in the Field Service Manual (FSM) link below for a Y33 belt diagram.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1998_Q4 ... Q45/ma.pdf

[JoeGarcia91]

Alright, I did that, they are appropriately tighten, and I put belt conditioner on the belts.
Then I thought about going for a 5 dollar multi-meter from my local Wal-Mart (that was my last 5 bucks for the next 3 days, LOL)
I checked my battery while car was off (12.32v), then I turned it on, with headlights on, and stereo on moderate volume, and the charge was slowly, but steadily dropping.
I guess now I know for sure it is a bad alternator. I however, noticed that when I pushed on the gas the reading would stay the same for a few seconds, and then slowly climb up (at an interval of approx .02v every 10 seconds or so) But as soon as I would let it idle without stepping on the gas, the charge would again start dropping steadily.
Well, my luck, I guess I'll be without a car for a couple of months until I can afford an alternator reconstruction or refurbishment or whatever it is.

Thank you OwnerCS for your great help, though. It was great to learn a few things from this forum and from you.

[Skibane]

I checked my battery while car was off (12.32v), then I turned it on, with headlights on, and stereo on moderate volume, and the charge was slowly, but steadily dropping.
I guess now I know for sure it is a bad alternator. I however, noticed that when I pushed on the gas the reading would stay the same for a few seconds, and then slowly climb up (at an interval of approx .02v every 10 seconds or so) But as soon as I would let it idle without stepping on the gas, the charge would again start dropping steadily.

It sounds very much like your alternator has died.

With the engine idling and a fully-charged battery, a good alternator will be producing around 14 volts, measured at the battery posts. If you turn on the headlamps (high beams), it may drop into the low-13's, but will quickly come back up to near 14 as soon as you rev the engine a little bit.

Suggested source for a good-quality alternator (rebuilt by Hitachi): Car Quest Auto Parts. They may not have one locally in stock, but can probably have one shipped in pretty quick. I put one in my 2000 Q45 several years ago, and have been very happy with it.

BTW, disconnecting a battery terminal while the engine is running is a very bad idea on modern cars. With no battery connected, the alternator voltage regulator doesn't measure any battery voltage, and may command the alternator to produce very high voltages - enough to burn out the engine computer or other electrical devices.

[JoeGarcia91]

It sounds very much like your alternator has died.

Yeah, or it is about to die. I swear I just turned the car on a few minutes ago and could have sworn the alternator was working correctly, the car didn't shut down while idleing this time around, even with the A/C on at coldest and fastest fan speed, and highbeams on.

With the engine idling and a fully-charged battery, a good alternator will be producing around 14 volts, measured at the battery posts. If you turn on the headlamps (high beams), it may drop into the low-13's, but will quickly come back up to near 14 as soon as you rev the engine a little bit.

I didn't check it this last time, but as I said, it seems to be working fine :O
Maybe the car just needed to have the battery recharged and have a few hours of rest for the problem to get fixed?

Suggested source for a good-quality alternator (rebuilt by Hitachi): Car Quest Auto Parts. They may not have one locally in stock, but can probably have one shipped in pretty quick. I put one in my 2000 Q45 several years ago, and have been very happy with it.

I appreciate it man, it'll be difficult to come up with the money but I guess it is worth it to buy it from a reliable place instead of have it rebuilt here by some mechanic.

BTW, disconnecting a battery terminal while the engine is running is a very bad idea on modern cars. With no battery connected, the alternator voltage regulator doesn't measure any battery voltage, and may command the alternator to produce very high voltages - enough to burn out the engine computer or other electrical devices.

Oh wow, I didn't know that, I surely will never do that again. I won't need to anyways since I bought a multimeter.

[JoeGarcia91]

Ok, bros, a quick update on what I did today and the progress on the car.
I did a complete disconnecting of almost everything electric I could find in the car, that is, all of the 5 thousand fuses, fuse links, relays, connections all around the car, etc. Also, the alternator, I dismounted it and disconnect it, I didn't open it but I cleaned the connection pins, also the ones in the cable that goes from the Alternator to the car, I also cleaned the battery posts, the battery connectors that go from the battery to the car. Now, none of the things I cleaned were really ''dirty''.
I plugged everything back in (which BTW, took almost double of the unplugging time, haha), There were no blown fuses, but I replaced as much as I could anyways, specially ''critical'' ones (I bought one of those $8 pack of assorted fuses).
After a few hours of work, the car started just fine, I was going to check the voltage with the new $5 multimeter I had bought yesterday, and well, it didn't work, so I had to go old school (and risky, I swear I won't do it again), I had the car idling for a few minutes, and then I disconnected the baterry for 1 minute, and of course, I turned the car off before connecting it again,. The car kept on running while the battery was disconnected, which indicates me that the alternator is working properly (or at least is not a screwed as I initially thought) Which is a good thing for me, I am gonna replace it regardles, as soon as I can. But for now it's bought me time to save up for a new one.

In other news, a found a couple oil leaks, which I am gonna take care of as soon as possible, but for now I put 2 quarts of synthetic oil on the car, which I had stored from a past oil change.
That's all for now, floks, I'll report back in if something else happens.

[JoeGarcia91]

Also, some bro here is trying to convince me to trade my 98 Q45 for a white 91 Infiniti M, convertible, plus 600 dollars (he'll give me the 600).

I know for a fact the car is in good condition, minus the plastic back ''window'' which is in pretty bad condition, but I want to know what you all think. Are M's parts more expensive than my car's? What about reliability? Any recalls or know issues?

[Q451990]

M parts aren't easy to find here... I can't imagine how hard they'd be to find in your neck of the woods!

I'd run from that "deal"

Heath

[JoeGarcia91]

M parts aren't easy to find here... I can't imagine how hard they'd be to find in your neck of the woods!

I'd run from that "deal"

Heath

Yeah, I feel you bro. It is a pretty good looking car, even though the inside is quite aged (in really good condition, but you just know it is old.)

On a related note, is there any guide on ''cross-compatibility'' of parts for the Q45? Like shocks, rads, alts, head gaskets, cover gaskets, struts, wheel bearings (I replaced a bearing a few months ago, I just couldn't believe one of those (the assembly) was more than 100 bucks, while other nissan's parts are way cheaper, like the assembly for an Altima, it was less than 50 bucks.
And I can't believe a new alternator for my car is 256 dollars, plus some crap called ''core charge'' of 70 (if bought in CA) and an alternator for my dad's mustang is no more than 100 dollars. And the differences in those parts for each car are so little I just can't believe it.

[OwnerCS]

While not $100, AdvanceAuto has a "Tough One" brand that can be purchased for $181.64 (*with the 15% online discount applied) and a $21 core charge (on return) with the old alternator. It carries a lifetime warranty. You get a coupon for $25 off on a future purchase of $50 or more.

I installed one of those alternators in my 99 I30 2 years ago and it is still working fine. Recently I installed one in the 99 Maxima. No complaints. While it is possible to get a "bad one" from any supplier, If the alternator is relatively easy to change, there is a lifetime warranty to cover future failures that weighs my decision toward the lower cost supplier.

Would I use a "Tough One" alternator on the G50? No.
Reason: Changing the alternator on a G50 is painful job. Due to the time and pain involved with changing the G50 alternator, I wanted to replace OEM with OEM and hope I never need to change it again.

Changing the alternator on the I30/Maxima is an easier job. So if one fails -- installing a replacement under warranty is not a bad job.

It looks like changing the alternator on the Y33 is easier than the G50 -- so I would most likely find a good deal with a supplier I like and then go with it.

[Skibane]

It looks like changing the alternator on the Y33 is easier than the G50

It is, but it's still not exactly a half-hour job.

Basically, you have to drain out enough coolant to remove the filler neck - which in turn gives you enough room to remove the alternator.

Install new alternator, re-install filler neck, replace coolant hose, re-fill with coolant, and re-install the alternator belt.

Personally, I have zero faith in electrical parts from Advance Auto, Auto Zone or Pep Boys - Their "lifetime warranty" is a silk purse made out of a sow's ear.

[hussey1]

hi
welcome to this forum site here you can gain knowledge. sorry i dont have the answer what you are asking but hopefully you will defenitly get the appropriate answer by using this forum site.
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