New idea for exhaust on New CA Swap...

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
driftin8ez
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Everyone was getting on me for saying that i was going to use a 3" downpipe into my stock KA exhaust after the cat. They said it was going to suck and hurt performance. Well obviously. It's Stock! Well i have a solution. Check it out:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...64864I can get this pulmbed in right after the downpipe and before the restictive stock system. So when the situation arises. I flip a switch and i'm runing open downpipe for max performance. Also on a side note. How much modification is needed to the stock catback to get it to bolt up to this pipe?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1So what do you guys think?


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Trigger
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cool i thought about that one time but never really looked into it...as far as the cat...umm i scrapped mine right after i got the car so i cant remember what it looked like lol

Tim

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float_6969
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I would remove the stock cat, and purchase a plain steel test pipe. Then take the test pipe to a muffler shop, buy a "Y" from them, and have them put this valve on the outlet of the "Y".

driftin8ez
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Ya i'm scraping the cat when i do the swap. That SSA pipe is a dp and a "testpipe" in one. Does anyone know if it will bolt up to the stock exhaust system?

UMS_CA18DET
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Your going to need one of these.



They sell them in different Diameters so you can match it to whatever piping you have.

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

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tyrannix
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its not necessarily 'new', ive seen valves before, i dont think ive seen a 'reliable' electric one, the others were lever+cable style.

but youve inspired me to make my car selectively obnoxious

1> BOV vented atmosphericaly2> wastegate vented atmosphericaly3> Y pipe + valve i hav(you can wire that to a standalone as well, so that @ 4k rpm & TPS >75% or whatever it opens automatically)

im thinking a 3 position switch: closed, open @ rpm trigger, and open ... so you can just hit closed when you get pulled over for having such an obnoxious exhaust, or if you have to get emissions testing/inspection

so yeah, ill add a y pipe to my DP when i add in the flex section... and we will see (then i can stick a silencer in the HKS catback

CJ

Kouks
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driftin8nez wrote:Ya i'm scraping the cat when i do the swap. That SSA pipe is a dp and a "testpipe" in one. Does anyone know if it will bolt up to the stock exhaust system?
I guess it should. When I got mine, it wouldnt bolt on to my turbo elbow, dam SSAC welded the flange on crooked, (great quality I tell you what), lol, so I took it to someone and had them cut it and re weld it straight to match up to my exhaust. HKS FTW!

Ive thought about that idea, but Id have to do that to my dp cuz I would cry to cut my HKS. Besides, it the Hi-POwer 3.3" from Japan, and Id gain minimal power anyways at (240whp).

capwred
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atpturbo sells one that works withthe vacuum.win boost comes on it opens,then when boost drops off it close.i have heard that it works great.

driftin8ez
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capwred wrote:atpturbo sells one that works withthe vacuum.win boost comes on it opens,then when boost drops off it close.i have heard that it works great.
Thats sounds cool also. I'll look into that. So if i run a 3" dp to stock piping will it hurt gas mileage or just my hp? Becouse I plan to drive around mostly this way and when the ocational ricer comes up i'll just open her up and give it a rev. That will be enough to scare off most of the clowns in my area. Also that SSA dp/testpipe should be able to bolt up the my stock exhaust without any problems?

240sxbobbis
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i like the sound of that lol it goes both ways the sound of an open down pipe and the way it sounds to me it sound like a good idea loud when i alet the cops and quiet when i get pulled over . then tell them they have the wrong car lol it was that civc ..

driftin8ez
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Well just started the my swap so we shall see how it sounds soon enough.

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mbmbmb23
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driftin8nez wrote: Check it out:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...64864So what do you guys think?
That thing looks neat but I doubt it will stay open when it has high velocity exhaust gasses hitting it.......I can just imagine the "trap door" would blow shut farily easily....its only an electric motor keeping it open and unless there is constant current going through the motor to keep it open (which would burn it up after awhile) it would easily push shut. Ever try turning an RC electric car motor with your hand?...it turns quite easily when there is no current going through it.

-m


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yourmomsrps13
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driftin8nez wrote:That SSA pipe is a dp and a "testpipe" in one. Does anyone know if it will bolt up to the stock exhaust system?
i bought that and IT DIDNT FIT so i had to cut the turbo side flange off and spin it then reweld it. i HATE SSAC but hey i have bad luck with everything so maybe yours will fit. but bolting that up to your stock should work, i mean everything iwas made to bolt up in those spots.

driftin8ez
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yourmomsrps13 wrote:i bought that and IT DIDNT FIT so i had to cut the turbo side flange off and spin it then reweld it. i HATE SSAC but hey i have bad luck with everything so maybe yours will fit. but bolting that up to your stock should work, i mean everything iwas made to bolt up in those spots.
I hope they got the flange right on mine. If they didn't i'm sure you guys are going to hear about it.

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tyrannix
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i just had a thought, for people who want to do this but not running a standalone or anything, but want an rpm activated switch.

the easiest RPM activated switch would be to use one of those adjustable shift lights, and cut the leads to the LED

have them run a relay that goes to the flapper (that you can then have go thru a 3 way switch, closed door/open door when rpm switch completes the circuit/open door

you can get them for around $30 on ebay, and you can toss the control in your glovebox or something if you want to change what RPM it opens up at

like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

CJ

driftin8ez
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A good way to find where to activate the dump using an rpm switch is to do two dyno runs. One closed all the time one open all the time and where the curves cross is where you would set your dump to open.

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tyrannix
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driftin8nez wrote:A good way to find where to activate the dump using an rpm switch is to do two dyno runs. One closed all the time one open all the time and where the curves cross is where you would set your dump to open.
erm. negative.

having more restriction wont help a turbo engine, all the rpm switch will do is keep it quieter during low rev cruising, then open up when it knows you want to accelerate in a hurry

any kind of scavenging that would help an NA engine happens inside the manifold, before the turbo

CJ

driftin8ez
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tyrannix wrote:erm. negative.

having more restriction wont help a turbo engine, all the rpm switch will do is keep it quieter during low rev cruising, then open up when it knows you want to accelerate in a hurry

any kind of scavenging that would help an NA engine happens inside the manifold, before the turbo

CJ
So the rpm switch is more of a novelty? Becouse racing from a stop there will be a brief moment or two when the valve isn't open untimatly hurting performance. Where as with a regular toggle switch if you know your going to punch it you just open the valve first. Unless you set it at something like 3500 rpm and when you lauch you stay reved higher than that. So it would stay open. Interesting....

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anumeric
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driftin8nez wrote:Also that SSA dp/testpipe should be able to bolt up the my stock exhaust without any problems?
I didn't get the one piece dp/tp but I got their 2 piece downpipe and testpipe set. Fits like a charm. No issues with anything, even bolts up to the exhaust bracket on the transmission mount.

UMS_CA18DET
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did you use the stock CA turbo elbow or the SSAutochrome/ SR20DET turbo elbow.

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anumeric
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UMS_CA18DET wrote:did you use the stock CA turbo elbow or the SSAutochrome/ SR20DET turbo elbow.
Used the stock CA turbo elbow.

driftin8ez
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So your running an ssa dp/cat and a stock exhaust? how does it sound? Have any clips?


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