I own a 91 240sx se w/ the DOHC, and the only engine mod I've ever done to it was installing a short ram air intake. I bought the pacersetter headers, straight pipe for the cat, and 3" exhaust from the cat back. I installed everything, it was a pain the *** and my hands are beat up. Rusty bolts... Well one of the sensors, I dunno which one by name, but it's the lowest sensor on the header didn't want to come out, and I ended up stripping the bolt. I ended up cutting it and it doesn't stay too well. Not only that, but now I hear a terrible knocking noise from the engine, and smoke. My old man said the smoke not from the engine due to the smell but is from the paint off the header, wd-30 that I sprayed the stuff with, and the new gasket (for some reason it's some white rubber looking crap and not aluminum like the rest of the system). After the engine cooled the sensor with the eletric wire that usually connects to heat sheild was smoking. I was more worried about the knocking noise. I drove the car and the knocking noise was loud at all ranges. The sensor I'm going to fix tomorrow and change to oil, to see if that helps. But I really need some help. I wanted to get rid of the engine after I got more money for a new one, which is not right now.PLEASE X to the Z Xzibit, PIMP MY RIDE!!!
Indiana=no emissions testing
New header back, along with new problems
im educated in this since i just installed a header and exhause of my own...
the sensor that you say goes into the heat shield actually goes to the manifold. thats the O2 and youll want to make sure its on the new header (kind of important). it goes to the bung on the third runner (not the best place pacesetter could have decided to put it but whatever). if you screwed up the threads or anything else on this buy a new one asap.
i also live in IN so no emissions here either. if you removed your egr (connects to threaded pipe conning off 2nd runner) then make sure you plugged the hold on the header. it is almost impossible to find a fitting to fit this thread style so the best colution is to tap the smaller hole at the bottom of the bung, thread in a bolt w/ a washer, and weld the washer around the bung.
next is the aiv (the very last bung at the very bottom of the header, almost in the collector) this conntects the the emissions box that sits on the strut tower and has a hose to the intake box. unbolt it from the strut tower and throw it away along w/ the pipe that connected it to the old downpipe. then proceede to plug the hole the same way as the egr.
this is a long shot but the knock you heard may be from a massive exhaust leak from those 2 emission bungs if you didnt plug them. that big of a leak = very bad because that is a butt load of hot air hitting the frame from the aiv and brake lines from the egr. if this is the case and you didnt block them off DO IT NOW.
and yes my header smoked and smelled for a while. it will go away. and since youll probably have the header back out to plug the holes go ahead and spray the header w/ some good high-temp paint.
the sensor that you say goes into the heat shield actually goes to the manifold. thats the O2 and youll want to make sure its on the new header (kind of important). it goes to the bung on the third runner (not the best place pacesetter could have decided to put it but whatever). if you screwed up the threads or anything else on this buy a new one asap.
i also live in IN so no emissions here either. if you removed your egr (connects to threaded pipe conning off 2nd runner) then make sure you plugged the hold on the header. it is almost impossible to find a fitting to fit this thread style so the best colution is to tap the smaller hole at the bottom of the bung, thread in a bolt w/ a washer, and weld the washer around the bung.
next is the aiv (the very last bung at the very bottom of the header, almost in the collector) this conntects the the emissions box that sits on the strut tower and has a hose to the intake box. unbolt it from the strut tower and throw it away along w/ the pipe that connected it to the old downpipe. then proceede to plug the hole the same way as the egr.
this is a long shot but the knock you heard may be from a massive exhaust leak from those 2 emission bungs if you didnt plug them. that big of a leak = very bad because that is a butt load of hot air hitting the frame from the aiv and brake lines from the egr. if this is the case and you didnt block them off DO IT NOW.
and yes my header smoked and smelled for a while. it will go away. and since youll probably have the header back out to plug the holes go ahead and spray the header w/ some good high-temp paint.
Re: (Codeman05)
So.. your saying just take out those two lines and plug them on the header? I just bought another line to replace it $60 from the dealership. I just don't like the idea of just plugging up a hole. But hey w/e works. I'm going to install the pipe because I already paid $60 for it, but if problems persists I'll plug them. I just don't want to take the header back out, it was a pain!Thanks
well you can either replace the like (which is the "correct" thing to do) or plug the hole (which works just as fine). personally i would leave the egr on there because its a ***** to get out and then plug the aiv. but since you already got a new line go ahead and put it in along w/ the emissions box on the strut tower. if you put the emissions back on the way they are stock then your problems will be solved.
but im guessing that you had the aiv bung open on the header right? that would have been a very bad thing to have for extended periods of time. as a matter of fact i just saw a new STI catch on fire from an exhaust leak melting wires in his engine bay at the latest auto cross.
i hope you get everything fixed up.
but im guessing that you had the aiv bung open on the header right? that would have been a very bad thing to have for extended periods of time. as a matter of fact i just saw a new STI catch on fire from an exhaust leak melting wires in his engine bay at the latest auto cross.
i hope you get everything fixed up.
Re: (Codeman05)
I got everything fixed up, the pipe only ended up costing me $37 w/ nissan employee discount. Score, and the rattling is also gone. The only thing I did was change the oil, which has been changed less than 2 months ago. I dunno, what was wrong but it's gone now so I'm not complaining.