New Guy, done a little homework....

[240rustX]

Just wanted to make a first post haha.

I'm not new to the modifying world but new to Nissans I've built a couple civic hatches, mustangs, 1 galant vr4 (DSM's hurt your head) and now own a '90 240 with a stock KA24E. Mileage is at 205,XXX chassis, unknown on the motor and has the typical cancer but that doesn't bother me, frame rails are already welded, it will have subframes where it can and angle iron wherever it can fit. It probably wont crush in an accident but it sure as hell isn't going to break. I am a welder by the way and have access to a mandrel bender so the cheap+fast=kaboom equation doesn't completely apply to me.

Now my first question is with my clutch pedal that I'm having a brain fart on. It's got a new clutch, a new slave and master cylinder in it but when you step on the pedal itself it's soooo soft. Is this normal for 240's? If not what did I miss?

The car will have an LSD rear end with probably a 3.55 r&p to load the turbo up little faster and still give me decent highway RPM. I haven't done research on this yet but to my general knowledge it sounds good.

The transmission is strong or seems like it....how much power can it take?

Stock cooling system...everything on that is new.

As for fuel I'm assuming injectors, fuel pump, wideband and probably something else again haven't done the research yet so....

I want this thing to breathe! So it can make more power at lower boost levels, if there is an aftermarket H/C/I swap it will have it. Unless the stock cam grind is good for turbos.

Now I'm going generally inspect the engine and check the compression and base timing this week so I'll let you guys know on that because this motor does fall flat on it's face past 4000RPM.

The turbo set up will consist of either a hacked stock headers thats flipped and has a flange welded to it or I'll probably just buy one.

A rebuilt Garrett .60/.63 from a ford turbocoupe ( I have 2 laying around in the garage.) with an internal wastegate and MBC. I'll figure out where to tap the oil pan.

Custom 3" downpipe made by yours truly hopefully, I'll check the firewall clearance coupled to a magnaflow exhaust.

Custom 2 1/2" coldside with some kind of intercooler I'm thinking about the big cheap volvo one. We'll see what fits and a RFL ebay BOV.

Did I miss anything?

Plan is to have about ~250 to the wheels at about at about 7-8lbs...sound realistic?

Edit:Say the engine is bad should I look for a a stock KA24E or DE? If it matters..

[esahuque]

and a RFL ebay BOV.

they always leak. get a real one. as for the resthttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/226410that should answer most of your questions, have fun and welcome to NICO.

[GTR PrYdE]

Welcome!

you're clutch problem is probably due to air being in the system. If you search around for removal of the stock clutch dampener (delete this and it makes bleeding the air out 100000x easier)

If you're engine turns out bad, you might want to look into a de swap, it's cheap and has a bit more support than the sohc.

for you power levels-

-stock cam(s)/intake work best under 350whp

-turbo manifolds aren't too expensive- JGS Tools makes a real nice pre-made one or a DIY manifold

-the transmission is good to around 350-400whp (granted its in good shape and you use good fluids, i.e. Amsoil, Redline..)

-Stock rear gearing is 4.08, so if you want something lower you basically need to fab a Q45 diff to fit in there (3.55/68) but a lsd/welded diff/kaaz/hlsd work well in the stock pumkin.