Hi,I have been reading a lot of these posts and I have a question about new front rotors for my J30t. I went to the brake shop in town and they were charging about $90 each rotor + labor and I found a pair on ebay for $40 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...2728. I was wondering if these are good enough rotors for my car or if I should look into getting some other type of rotors. Also, how hard is it to install front rotors if you have little experience with stuff like this? Any help would be appreciated. One more question. Does anyone know where I could get the J30t center caps for the wheels. If anyone has bought new wheels and has these center caps please let me know, I need two or more (mine started to peel off).
Thanks,Daniel
New front rotors questions
Welcome to NICO! I would definitely find a cheaper source for rotors. Locally I can get decent rotors (Auto Specialty) for about $55 each, and if you have the tools, replacing them is almost the same labor as doing a brake job. Once you remove the brakes (2 bolts per side), you can use a couple screws (8mmx1.25 I think, but check the manual) to separate the rotors from the hubs. Old ones come right off, and new ones go on. Depending on how picky you are, you may want to have the new ones trued first, but I've had good luck with new rotors. Pep Boys around L.A. will true them for $8/rotor.
i had no previous brake experience and i replaced all 4 rotors on my J30 in about 2 hours. no tools necessary besides floor jack, set of sockets, torque wrench, and permatex disc brake quiet silicone gel. Daedelus is right about the 2 screws going into the rotor after you disconnect the caliper, but i am in the salt belt and that wasnt necessary. as i said, i recently did my brakes, and i have a whole catalogue of pics if you need help along the way. if you are replacing the rotors, put on some new pads too.
Thanks for that response. It would be very helpful if you could send me those pics and some other info on how to do this. I have 5 month old brake pads with maybe 1500 miles on them, would it still be necessary to replace those too. Also do you know of a good place to get rotors if those ones from ebay in my previous post arent any good. Thanks
Replacing the pads definitely isn't necessary in this case (unless they're not wearing evenly because of bad rotors), but always consider replacing things ahead of schedule to save on labor. If your pads were 80% worn, you would have to ask yourself how much your time is worth to raise the front, remove the tires, remove the brakes, etc again in a few months to replace the pads, when the pads only cost so much. Perhaps better to do them all in one shot given that situation. Definitely inspect them (and everything else in the neighborhood, like brake lines), but I expect they'll have plenty of life left. Aftermarket rotors are available from a few places, including http://www.optionsautosalon.com though they're not cheap at this site. Because of their weight, I like to buy them locally...the tax on them is often less than shipping. Large national chains will have them or be able to order them, but I have found that for most items they do NOT stock the best brands. A lot of members are happy with aftermarket performance rotors, but of course those will cost more. Regardless, I'm sure the $90 quote you got was for the absolute cheapest rotors they could find, so you're on your way to doing better.
Just curious...how did you find you need new rotors? Hopefully it wasn't the brake shop that told you that. If so, get a second opinion. To paraphrase Q45tech, if you're a shop and all you do are brakes, then everyone needs a brake job, whether they need them or not. I get very upset when shops try to sell me or my friends things I/they don't need. I used to agree to anything, like most people do, but now I'm a bit more educated. I actually look forward to questioning the service writer about what he's trying to sell me and why. The best one was where a guy tried to sell me new shocks with a 2 year warranty, and then backpeddled like crazy when I showed him my reciept from the same place from 22 months previous and demanded that he replace my shocks for free. I let him get out of it (I didn't want them touching my car ever again), but not until after I made a big scene in front of everyone in the waiting room about them not honoring their warranties.Another trick brake places (and others--my experience) will pull is to use non-calibrated tools to measure rotors. A lot more people need new rotors if you measure them with micrometers that are worn by .040"! Go in there with a .250" drill bit in your pocket, and when they show you how "dangerously thin" your rotors are, ask them to measure the drill bit with the same micrometer that's on the rotor. That one has brought a smile to my face both times I did it.
Well I did take it to a brake place and they said I needed new rotors, but it was also taken to an Infiniti dealership in July and they said I would need new rotors sometime in Janurary or so. Also I notice some serious shaking of the car when I am slowly braking. Wouldnt this be a sign of front rotor warpage?One more question. By putting rotors on by myself what is the possibility of something going bad and then having either the rotors to warp quickly or the brakes to fail.Thanks
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Mayhem_J30
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- Location: Louisville, KY
good chancej30t wrote: Wouldnt this be a sign of front rotor warpage?
[quote=" j30t One more question. By putting rotors on by myself what is the possibility of something going bad and then having either the rotors to warp quickly or the brakes to fail.Thanks [/quote] as long as when you're done you don't have any extra parts laying around, slim to none.good luck.
Exactly--slim to none without any extra parts and if you tighten the bolts to spec. But you really need a factory manual just in case. It has exploded diagrams that show you how the parts go together. When you remove the brakes, be careful with the pads, or they could pop out, along with the metal clips. Not a big deal, but it's a small puzzle without the manual telling you how everything goes back together. When you remove the brakes, have a bungy cord or string there so you can hang it from something, like the coil spring. Never let the brake line support the brake, and be very careful not to damage the line in any way.
Just watch manuals as mine shows the wrong bolt to remove to do the brake pad replacement.
The center assembly that holds the caliper on removes separate from the caliper holder. You cannot remove the disks without removing the caliper holder.
Buy some cable ties to hold the caliper up and away. This avoids stressing the brake line joints and gives you some room to work
Use your brains and use the manual as a guide
Unfortunately there is so much info in the manual that there has to be some errors just by statistics. Nothing is ever perfect.
Worked as a quality engineer once and discovered that most places do not calibrate their measuring devises. Listen to Daedalus and check the checker! A-1 Idea guy! Lost my access to calibrated gauge blocks some time ago
I always do my own brake jobs and the J was fairly easy
You will need at least the following
1- A good metric socket set2- A c-clamp to compress the brake cylinders3- A decent torque wrench. (spend alittle more on this as you will always use it)4- Brake Kleen5- Lots of rags6- Brake anti Squeel.
I recommend getting the shim kit with the pad when you do it. I did not and my brakes started to squeel after some time.
For just changing the disk, you will need 1, 2 (the disk will be thicker than what you have now), 3
Oh Yeah! Always torque the lug nuts to spec (that is why I have a torque wrench) Having them over torqued, or unevenly torqued creates stresses that can cause your disks to warp faster.
Good Luck, take your time and recheck your work before putting the wheel back on!
The center assembly that holds the caliper on removes separate from the caliper holder. You cannot remove the disks without removing the caliper holder.
Buy some cable ties to hold the caliper up and away. This avoids stressing the brake line joints and gives you some room to work
Use your brains and use the manual as a guide
Unfortunately there is so much info in the manual that there has to be some errors just by statistics. Nothing is ever perfect.
Worked as a quality engineer once and discovered that most places do not calibrate their measuring devises. Listen to Daedalus and check the checker! A-1 Idea guy! Lost my access to calibrated gauge blocks some time ago
I always do my own brake jobs and the J was fairly easy
You will need at least the following
1- A good metric socket set2- A c-clamp to compress the brake cylinders3- A decent torque wrench. (spend alittle more on this as you will always use it)4- Brake Kleen5- Lots of rags6- Brake anti Squeel.
I recommend getting the shim kit with the pad when you do it. I did not and my brakes started to squeel after some time.
For just changing the disk, you will need 1, 2 (the disk will be thicker than what you have now), 3
Oh Yeah! Always torque the lug nuts to spec (that is why I have a torque wrench) Having them over torqued, or unevenly torqued creates stresses that can cause your disks to warp faster.
Good Luck, take your time and recheck your work before putting the wheel back on!
the reason you get that shimmy in the car is from warped brake rotors. the lugs must have been torqued unevenly or just too much.
everything that has been said above is right, although you can just use an old wire coat hanger to hang the caliper on the spring instead of the more elegant zip tie approach.
everything that has been said above is right, although you can just use an old wire coat hanger to hang the caliper on the spring instead of the more elegant zip tie approach.
i can send you the pics in a few days if you still want them, i have a dialup connection here for the time being and it would take too long.
http://www.nopi.com carries front brembo blanks ($41 each!) for the J30 (good ****) as well as your whole selection of cross drilled and slotted, Cd plated rotors.
shipping for 2 rotors was nominal, i think around 10 dollars.
http://www.nopi.com carries front brembo blanks ($41 each!) for the J30 (good ****) as well as your whole selection of cross drilled and slotted, Cd plated rotors.
shipping for 2 rotors was nominal, i think around 10 dollars.
Thanks for all the help guys. I guess I'll try and do it myself. About the pictures eswift...it would be great if you could send them to me. I am out of town until monday and wont need the pictures until sometime next week. Did anyone take a look at these rotors on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...2728. If you have, are they good enough for regular use on my car. Thanks again
There isn't much difference in stopping performance from one rotor to the next. For auto-xs and other racers, slotted or cross-drilled might show less fade across repeated heavy use, but for average driving, it won't matter much. The biggest concern is how flat and parallel they arrive and whether you will need to have them turned before installation.
There are two main types.
One type has a long pointer on it with a scale. This is the cheapest and sometimes can be hard to read when working in tight places or getting the most accurate measurements
The other is one that you set the torque on the handle and when the handle shifts, the item is at torque, no guessing. This is the best one but can be double the price.
You will spend anywhere between 25 to 50 for a torque wrench but if you plan on working on your cars it is a necessity
There are also sizes but get one that you can torque the lug nuts up with.
Mine has a 1/2 drive with a 3/8 adapter
One type has a long pointer on it with a scale. This is the cheapest and sometimes can be hard to read when working in tight places or getting the most accurate measurements
The other is one that you set the torque on the handle and when the handle shifts, the item is at torque, no guessing. This is the best one but can be double the price.
You will spend anywhere between 25 to 50 for a torque wrench but if you plan on working on your cars it is a necessity
There are also sizes but get one that you can torque the lug nuts up with.
Mine has a 1/2 drive with a 3/8 adapter
You will need a couple probably. A large one that goes to 250 ft-lbs or more, and a smaller one that will fit in the wheel well for torquing the brake bolts. I have a small one that's only about a foot long, and it goes to 80 ft-lbs. It's hard to say which brands will stay in spec longer, but generally you get what you pay for. Luckily there is always a torque range, so aim for the middle and you'll probably be OK. I have found excellent prices at this online store:http://www.thetoolwarehouse.netThe quality isn't always the best, but overall a cut or two above harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com
Oops, I had forgotten there are different types of wrenches. My first torque wrench was a Craftsman beam type (the one with the pointer). The idiot that designed it didn't put the scale on both sides, so I couldn't read the scale in some cases without adding my own marks (increase in error). The other one is also called a "clicker" type. I strongly recommend you spring for it if you plan to be doing a lot of your own work. Get the smaller one first if you can get one that goes to 80 ft-lbs or more, since this is probably about what your lugnuts require. Very few go below 10 ft-lbs, which is what you'll need for some other jobs. Maybe a beam-type will be needed after all.
those ebay rotors....we cant say much because the seller doesnt tell us much...i would personally opt for at least brembo blanks if you arent going with nissan factory parts. (in fact, i wouldnt be suprised if the nissans were relabled brembos). It is true that slotted rotors are unnecessary for the street, but they have been shown to grip better during wet braking. i will email you those pics when i have a cable modem connection, which will be some time near the 1st. these are pretty big pics, i can scale them down if your email account has a limit (let me know)
Eswift please send me those pictures if you have access to broadband again. Email to [email protected]. This will help a lot...because im not to sure of what to do.
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Mayhem_J30
- Posts: 2643
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 2:00 am
- Car: Ummm...My Car
- Location: Louisville, KY
juiceman wrote:There are two main types.
One type has a long pointer on it with a scale. This is the cheapest and sometimes can be hard to read when working in tight places or getting the most accurate measurements
The other is one that you set the torque on the handle and when the handle shifts, the item is at torque, no guessing. This is the best one but can be double the price.
You will spend anywhere between 25 to 50 for a torque wrench but if you plan on working on your cars it is a necessity
There are also sizes but get one that you can torque the lug nuts up with.
Mine has a 1/2 drive with a 3/8 adapter
don't forget the electronic ones. they cost a bit though. I just bought the craftsman mechanical one that goes up to 80 ft/lbs...i think and measures in metric as well. I believe it said it had 4 +/- accuracy. The main purpose of my purchase was for doing the lugs. They are pricey though mine was aprox $65. sorry for being a tad off topic just had to throw in my .02