New fish with a 1985 720 King Cab seeking help

[pistolkeith]

Hey there, i just bought a 1985 Nissan 720 King Cab today. Heres some photos of it




183,000miles. Interior is completely untouched. Drivers seat has a few rips and the foam is completely dead. Carpet is exceptionally clean. Steering wheel is a little ratty. Cigarette lighter still works!(very happy that i can charge my phone!). Bed has a few scratches but zero rust marks. I cannot find any rust in the whole car. Has had a respray at some point and the underside was also sprayed dark brown. Latch on bed door is a little sticky but is solid. Wheels are in fine order however i predict they need balancing as at 70mph its a little shaky. but not a wheel alignment shaky.(ideas?) Brake hoses are very worn and need replacing. Same with front wishbone bushes(?). Clutch is a little short but still stiff and doesnt seem to slip. All gears are tight and crisp. Idle is quite low. But that could be easily fixed with a tune-up.

Overall id give the condition(as you can see in the pictures) a 8.5/10 and engine and gear box a 7.5/10.

I've owned a 1980 Datsun Sunny(or 210 as the call them here) 4-door sedan back in New Zealand(where im from). It was my biggest regret selling her. Treated me very very well.

I would love some help from anyone who is willing... i want to give my truck a full tune up/get someone who is experienced with Datsuns to do it. Replace the brake hoses and bushes. And anything that could do with replacing considering its 26 years old and has seen a lot of asphalt. I want to drain all fluids and replace with new quality ones.

I am located just north of Los Angeles and would love to chat with any of you fine Datsun/Nissan loving folk.

[N-Dually]

WOW! Nice find! I feel safe to say that anyone here will be more than happy to help. Ask away and very nice truck!

[breadbox]

Welcome to NICOclub.

That looks showroom clean right there. The mirrors are big for my taste. I'm jealous of your undented front bumper and airdam.

If you aren't doing the bushings yourself find a shop that does alot of 4x4 offroad or minitrucks. In my experience they know more about truck suspension then most other shops and will usually replace all your bushings cheaper than most other shops. At least its true here in Virginia Beach.

[pistolkeith]

Also, I have a 'cracking knock' when I turn left sharply. Almost like. Stiff bushings or something. It doesn't sound mechanical, more something not giving immediately like it should. And also my steering collum makes a rubbing noise. Once again, like it needs a good grease or something? I'm somewhat mechanically minded but I wouldn't have a clue where to start. Ideas??

[breadbox]

Get some help. Pop the hood and then Have someone get in and start it up, while you walk around it, then tell them to keep turning the wheel, and look and listen. Then you can have them drive pass and around you a bit gassing and braking, while you listen for other things like scraping pads, loose exhaust.

Once you have a good idea of what the problem area is... research that area and the maintenance needed there.

Find a chilton's/haynes manual for the 720, mine goes from like 1980 to 1997 nissan pickups. so not too much changed over the years. These trucks were built for anyone to work on. Don't pay anyone to do something you could easily manage, while learning everything about your truck.

Back on topic. I know if you throw big tires on they rub near lock on the inner wheel well. But like you said it could be a bushing or ball joint that seized.

[breadbox]

Steering column should be easy to figure out. rip out the metal kick panel and whatnot to see under the dash better. there are 3 bolts holding the column up, in case you want to drop it to see the top side back to the firewall.

[Rev_D21]

Sweet 720! Very clean and I hope you keep it that way. Welcome to NICO!

[pistolkeith]

ive just noticed that one of the wheel nuts is missing....(i know, i have a few screws loose for not noticing). It seems that it is shorter than the rest also? I went o Pepboys to get some replacement nuts and the ones that fit all the rest on that wheel seem too snug for this rogue stud? i stripped the thread on one of the other nuts when i tried to swap them around. is there a reason why the stud would be a different diameter to the others? has anyone heard of this before??

[Rev_D21]

Yeh, it's called installing the wrong part and it happens everyday because too many mechanics are in a hurry or don't have proper training. Some even go so far as to hide their screw ups.

[pistolkeith]

Is it a hard fix?

[breadbox]

you have to take out hub and bang out the wrong stud and hammer in a new one. Which ever wheel it is, you might consider getting bushings and stuff and freshening up other parts while you are in there, like new brake pads if needed.

[synack7350]

oh sweet you got attacked by the rogue stud muffin! He's closely related to his nastier brother wrong spare... Yeah I met him once. You never meet him until the worst possible moment.

[PEZi]

Welcome to NICO!

[pistolkeith]

So, i've decided that upon much research and high quotes from stupid major corporations(namely Firestone), i am going to replace my upper and lower ball joints. as well as brake pads, brake hoses, and compression arm bushes. I should get onto that this week, ill be purchasing the parts over the next few days and will be sure to post my findings and progress with pictures very soon. anyone have and last words of wisdom before i begin my quest?

[breadbox]

yeah driving my truck more lately and started noticing my suspension creaking loud on big compressions, I am probably bout to do this type of stuff soon too. Have fun and pb blaster+ persuasion devices will be key.

[MetalFab]

Just be glad you don't have 4wd, balljoints on 2wd are much less time consuming and relatively straight forward. I'd suggest getting crows foot wrenches for the brake hoses as it's all too easy to strip them out depending on what kind of road conditions this truck has seen. Overall it sounds like it's in great condition, you might not have any trouble at all.

[flinterman2000]

Love the look of your truck. WD40 everything before you attempt to slacken anything. All repairs on this truck can be DIY. Just have patience.

[pistolkeith]

so, i have come across an alarming sight but also some what of a (maybe) relieving sight? i was tinkering around under the hood. just getting to know what the underside of my truck looks like and i came across these two little guys. could this be the reason my heater and AC don't work? what are these hoses for? and how to fix? I'm learning, slowly, and i really really appreciate all of you kind souls out there that are lending me some knowledge about my "King".

[breadbox]

Yep thats for the heater core... usually gets disconnected because the heater core is gunked up. you may have to rip out parts from a d21 pickup. You could hook up a hose to either end and put your heater to full hot and run the fan and try and flush it out before hooking it up. who knows why they bypassed it. maybe it got stuck on heat and they didn't ever use it. just kinda beer bong it with water. might be easier with two people.

and the big tube going to the firewall from the a/c compressor is the low pressure side and the smaller one is the high pressure side.

[breadbox]

I'd have look at pictures to see exactly where it goes but I'd look for a hose coming of where the thermostat is on the intake and see how it is bypassed then let us know what you find.

[breadbox]

looks like one hose is off the side of the block passenger side

[pistolkeith]

When you say put a hose up do you mean a water hose? Or just a hose in a 'u' shape to block either end? Excuse the dumb questions. I understand the "simple" terms of things. With the a/c, how can I test to see if it just needs to be refilled? And where would those heater hoses normally lead to? The core is behind the dash yea?

[breadbox]

Id leave the a/c alone for now, being its not as important right now.

The heater core basics after quick search
http://blog.automotivetroubleshootingse ... re-basics/

Once you understand the simple explanation of how the heater core works then go back and look at your situation.

As for me, yes, I was suggesting flushing it with a garden hose when the climate controls are set to full heat, setting them to full heat opens the core all the way = more heat. When you make it full cool it closes off the core just bypassing the vent system = less heat, not necessarily more cool.

but also I recommend hookup up hoses so you don't flush your core straight onto your motor but hopefully direct it to a bucket so you can see what came out of it.

[breadbox]

also IIRC, the heater is to the far right of the cabin, then A/C should be more toward the middle, and the doors that directs air to different vents should be under your console under the radio. so when flushing look for leaks in the cabin on passenger floor.

[pistolkeith]

been a long time since ive posted, sorry, moved to Canada and drove the 720 the whole way. She purred the whole way. Didnt miss a beat! However, now that im here im noticing a few little issues that seem to be getting a little worse. Firstly the whole sticky accelerator is seeming more like a broken choke. She doesnt do it so much when shes warm but still does stick a little when changing gears warm. I did take a look at the linkages on the carb and there seems to be one 50mm long bar that has a swivel point broken off at the back of the carb. could that be my issue? is that where the automatic choke is? ill have to take some pictures soon. Would it be worth me just getting a new carb or converting it to a Weber? doesnt anyone know what the emissions laws are like in Ontario? and is it a straight forward conversion? i also am developing a larger and larger hole in my exhaust, i noticed its close to the header and thus very loud in the cab but the weld at the back of the muffler is shot and the end pipe is just hanging in there, will probably end up replacing that also. Ideas as to where to go to get that done?

i know theres a lot of questions(and probably stupid ones at that....) but any help you geniuses can offer, i would greatly appreciate

[ontarioguy1983]

in ontario any vehicle older than 20 years does not need to be e-tested as far as i know.

[breadbox]

I'm noticing a few little issues that seem to be getting a little worse.

1) The sticky accelerator seems more like a broken choke. She doesnt do it so much when shes warm but still does stick a little when changing gears warm.



I did take a look at the linkages on the carb and there seems to be one 50mm long bar that has a swivel point broken off at the back of the carb. could that be my issue?

I bought generic "Throttle Return Springs" and made it work by making it hold the throttle plate closed...I had to get used to the heavy throttle at first but now I don't notice. I plan on fixing it this summer whenever I get time..FML.
Common reasons for throttle stickiness are things like carbon build-up, usually cured by some carb spray or rebuild, new carb's throttle plate it sticking on the adapter for the carb, usually cured by dremeling, or broken something or other, usually cured by rebuild.

is that where the automatic choke is?

Not to familiar with carbs still yet... hopefully I can rebuild one of the hitchi's soon and get better acquainted.

Would it be worth me just getting a new carb or converting it to a Weber?

I love my weber, especially if you don't have to deal with emissions then yes! Check my thread to get some ideas on that.

doesnt anyone know what the emissions laws are like in Ontario?

think that got answered already

and is it a straight forward conversion?

Adapter plate might be needed but not to sure on that one except I have one, but I didn't do it myself(I'm an idiot and trusted a shop to work with carbs, instead of taking the time and doing it myself)

i also am developing a larger and larger hole in my exhaust, i noticed its close to the header and thus very loud in the cab but the weld at the back of the muffler is shot and the end pipe is just hanging in there, will probably end up replacing that also. Ideas as to where to go to get that done?

Really... call around to local shops and see who welds. IMO someone who is amazing at welding scoffs at exhaust work a.k.a. they can knock it out fast as shizz. Stress you are on a budget for that particular vehicle( BS like its a company car and you said you'd do it for the boss as a favor) Agree to buy all the materials like already have a cat if needed and resonator(ebay or online exhaust parts ware house weld on parts) an the rest is exhaust hangers and piping dude.

Hey Glad to see you are back and made it safely. I tried my best to clear up the spacing of your post. easier to read and what not.

[sleepy93]

Great looking truck! I purchased mine about two years ago with 72k miles on it. Your having some of the same issues I've had recently. I recommend buying a Hanyes Manual. It has helped me save a lot of money on simple repairs and heartache.

[pistolkeith]

in ontario any vehicle older than 20 years does not need to be e-tested as far as i know.

oh perfect! ill look into that. Also, i see you're in Ontario... wanna be friends? haha i just need some help/questions answered about my carb and possibly swapping it out for a Weber.

[pistolkeith]

Great looking truck! I purchased mine about two years ago with 72k miles on it. Your having some of the same issues I've had recently. I recommend buying a Hanyes Manual. It has helped me save a lot of money on simple repairs and heartache.

purchased! they are great books arent they?! having a lot of troubles with the old girl now that she has to start and run in freezing temperatures all the time. coming from Ventura, its a bit of change in climate! the carb had issues before we left so ill have to give that a proper look into and then she seems to run a little uneven at the moment, emphasised when its a cold start, so ill have to check that out too? anyone got any tips?