New Engine installed. Questions and comments...

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Sentientbydesign
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I just got my coupe back from the dealership with a new engine (It's ok telcoman).

While they had the engine out, they said my clutch and flywheel were toast and wanted to replace them, but at $1200 (after discounts) I declined.

Anybody with experience want to chirp in about this break-in period? I've read conflicting info. Some say it extends the life of the engine to baby it. Others say the piston rings seal better when you beat the shish ka bobs out of it.

I'm not sure if it's because I'm babying it, or because it's a new engine, or because the techs installed my grounding kit wrong, but I feel like I've got less low end torque.

I'm going to reinstall the wires correctly and see if that makes any difference.



joe603
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For me, I don't go over 4k RPM, don't use cruise control, and change the oil after 1200 miles. After that first oil change, she's good to go.

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C-Kwik
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Beancooker
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Drive the piss out of her, and seat the rings well.

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Focusedintntions
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just keep the engine moving throughout the rev range...don't sit at high rpms too long or idle too long either....constant speeding up and slowing down is best.....

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telcoman
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Sentientbydesign wrote:I just got my coupe back from the dealership with a new engine (It's ok telcoman).

While they had the engine out, they said my clutch and flywheel were toast and wanted to replace them, but at $1200 (after discounts) I declined.

Anybody with experience want to chirp in about this break-in period? I've read conflicting info. Some say it extends the life of the engine to baby it. Others say the piston rings seal better when you beat the shish ka bobs out of it.

I'm not sure if it's because I'm babying it, or because it's a new engine, or because the techs installed my grounding kit wrong, but I feel like I've got less low end torque.

I'm going to reinstall the wires correctly and see if that makes any difference.
Nate

Glad to hear you got a free replacement engine.

I have a few questions

How many miles are on your vehicle?

What did the service people at the dealer recomend as far as the correct breaking in procedure?

What type & wt of oil did they put in the new engine?

Did they advise you when to change the break in oil?

This may be a senior moment but what is the purpose of the grounding kit?I thought it had something to do with shifting response on an auto trans?

Telcoman

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Warpkor
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Weren't you thinking of putting some after-market headers on the motor before install? Still wondering if they are emissions legal for the smog panzies in CA.

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Sentientbydesign
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telcoman wrote:
Nate

Glad to hear you got a free replacement engine.

I have a few questions

How many miles are on your vehicle?
Just over 53k.

Quote »What did the service people at the dealer recomend as far as the correct breaking in procedure?[/quote]Keep it under 4k and no WOT for 1200 miles. I asked about other stuff, but they said the TSB only stated the above two items. I was referred to my manual for any other break-in info.

Quote »What type & wt of oil did they put in the new engine?

Did they advise you when to change the break in oil?[/quote]5w-30. No other advice than the 2 break in items.

Quote »This may be a senior moment but what is the purpose of the grounding kit?

I thought it had something to do with shifting response on an auto trans?

Telcoman [/quote]Most vehicles have a "to" but no "from" for the electronics. They rely on the chassis as a return path. That means impedence and signal interference. Both sound negligible (sp) on a 93 240sx or my friends 91 miata with 3 sensors on it.

On our cars which have a slew of sensors, drive-by-wire, and other electronics (sound system, lights, TCU for the autos, navigation...etc), having a clean impedence free return path is extremely important.

The list of POSSIBLE improvements are:

Throttle responseFuel EconomyPowerLower idleCleaner sound (speakers)Brighter Headlights

The reason I say possible, is because sometimes the chassis works well, many times it doesn't.
Warpkor wrote:Weren't you thinking of putting some after-market headers on the motor before install? Still wondering if they are emissions legal for the smog panzies in CA.
Yes, and I'm glad I didn't. When they pulled out my engine, they informed me of my dying clutch. That's going to cost me $600+ and a weekend on the driveway/garage floor.

I didn't go with the headers because they were too expensive. I'd rather HFCs and a cat-back first.

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smockers83
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Did you just track your car with this new engine? If so, shouldn't you have asked this before hand and maybe waited until you broke it in?

The reason you earned Staff Vexer should tell you all you need to know about the differences you read about.

If you can't tell, I'm one of the thought of breaking it in as described by joe.

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Sentientbydesign
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smockers83 wrote:Did you just track your car with this new engine? If so, shouldn't you have asked this before hand and maybe waited until you broke it in?

The reason you earned Staff Vexer should tell you all you need to know about the differences you read about.

If you can't tell, I'm one of the thought of breaking it in as described by joe.
You been ?

I don't understand a word of that.

I drifted the car before the new engine.

I just picked up the car with the new engine this morning. I think I've put 15 miles on it so far.

The reason I earned the "Staff Vexer" title was because of the write-ups I've done and how many times I've pissed off, Noah, Joe, Sean, Greg, and Matt.

I think I'm going to follow Chano's advice and break in the engine the way I break in new brakes.

Thanks to everyone else for their advice.

Jacko3
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Sentient:

Revised VQ should have a lot more low end torque at about 3,000RPM. I drove mine normally for about 700 miles and then I started taking it to 5,000 RPM, and by 3,000 miles, I was already doing 6,000 RPM. Beleive me, it has taken a long time to break the revised VQ engine in so that it can easily do 7,000 RPM. And, I started using synthetic oil immediately, at my next oil change. It did not affect a darn thing. Congratulations on the new engine. Enjoy!


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smockers83
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Nope, haven't been . What's not to understand with the exception of a message possibly too well hidden? It makes sense. And I guess I'm sorry for asking a question?

I guess I didn't read carefully enough and at the time I wasn't sure because both topics were posted today and I had just read your track thread. I wasn't sure, hence the question and If so clause. If you think I was trying to you...FF to the last sentence.

And why/who usually caused you to them off? Catching my drift here or do I need to further elaborate?

Grounding wires aren't going to affect torque to the point where you'll feel it, so you can rule that out. Plus, its a brand new engine compared to one that's been running for a while. Of course there are going to be differences. I'm sure the engine you used to have at 15 miles performed differently than it did later on.

And you're welcome for my advice, which I actually seconded joe, whether you like it or not. Just

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Sentientbydesign
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Sorry if I came across as being rude.

I still don't know how my reading conflicting advice has anything to do with my custom title, but no matter.

You don't have to believe that I felt more low end torque, I'm just telling you what I felt. Beanor will be getting his wires soon and he can tell you if he feels a difference.

As for the new engine. Yeah it probably won't feel the same as my old engine. But if this is what they feel like brand new, I'm super glad I didn't test drive a brand new one

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Sentientbydesign
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Thanks Jacko,

I have lots and lots of testing to do in the next month or two. Maybe I'll call up Yerv and see if he want to do some testing on his sedan too.

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C-Kwik
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Sentientbydesign wrote:I think I'm going to follow Chano's advice and break in the engine the way I break in new brakes.
One thing I should mention is that I've heard that during the break-in process, its a good idea to let the car engine brake right after putting load on it. The high level of vacuum helps to evacuate some of the metal particles and oil that might get trapped in the honing ridges.

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smockers83
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Its cool. I'll PM you.

I believe that you felt less torque. What I'm saying is that a difference in torque, if any, produced by having it would be small enough that you wouldn't have felt it decrease due to the kit being installed wrong/differently. So installing it correctly wouldn't give you that feeling of increased torque. You'd have to increase torque by about 7 or 8 lb/ft at the crank from stock for you to even begin to notice, which is right at the maximum in gains that have been achieved. Well it might give you the "feeling", but more likely than not its perceived.

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Sentientbydesign
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Did you kit not give you any noticeable improvement?

I'm not sure what the Hyper kit consists of

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smockers83
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Its hard to say. I'll say I didn't feel anything noticeable in the butt in terms of power and torque. But I also installed mine before storing it for 5 months and didn't get a chance to test it to notice. The thing I really do notice though is the shifts and maybe I saw a max increase of .5 MPG. Maybe I'll have to take it apart, test, reassemble and test again.

The GG kit I have is the 10-wire.

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Sentientbydesign
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Hmmm, Interesting.

It's very hard to tell when you can't compare before and after. That's why I love the fact that I forgot about the install. Being excessively busy has paid off for once lol.

Jacko3
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You are welcome! A new engine is simply a new car without the pomp and pageantry. Nothing beats the excitement of a new engine on the road.



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