New Engine in and wont start

[ricervan1]

Hello everybody so I've had my 300zx for about a year now evrrything was good except whe I went to get it smogged the guy told me that it was leaking gas from the fuel injectors, ignored it and kept driving anyways and the next week I changed the injectors. Once I started driving it, it started to smoke. To my surprise it was leaking coolant and I foubd out when I got home. Tried to start it on my way to school but didnt start. Tried everything. Changed starter and fuel relay still wouldnt start. Bought an engine and took it to a mechanic, he did the engine swap and he told me it still wouldnt start. He said the cylinders had low compressiom and he even tried the transmission fluid drop test on the coil packs. Nothing. So now after about 9 months in the shop sitting there I'm left with the question of why it wouldnt start. Should I get another VG30DE and hope it works or take it to another mechanic for a second opinion? Could it just be wiring? Electrical issues? I would really like any feedback on this because my budget is tight and I want to know if I should get a second opinion before buying another engine. Also my radiator hose driver side (you know the one that connects to the intake and then throttle) snapped off in an accident so I was wondering if that had anything to do with it. Also could it just be fuel/air mixture that is messing it up? The company I bought the engine from said it was a 90-96 engine could my ecu be the one that needs to be changed because the engine could be a 96? Since my car IS a 90. Once again ANY help would be highly appreciated. Thank you for taking time to read and reply.

[Ziggy1621]

Welcome to Nico... IMO, you jumped to quick on getting a new engine. If it was smoke after injector swap, it may have just been an incorrectly installed oring.

Low compression is nothing that can be quickly fixed, and to begin to give advice on why it doesn't start, we would have to know a lot more. What does it actually do when you try to start it? Has the ECU been checked for codes? Have the injectors been OHM'd? Has the CAS test been performed? Has the PTU been tested? Do you have good fuel pressure?

These are just a few. As far as the radiator hose, there isn't a radiator hose that goes from the intake tot he throttle. That would probably be the intake hose for the driver's side, and yes, if that is broken it would allow too much air in the driver's side that the ECU cannot accommodate for because it reads at the MAF up front, before the break.