New ECU

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
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grk nickafis
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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:17 pm
Car: Looking for something fun.
2011 GMC Sierra
Location: NJ

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I ordered the Z1 ecu upgrade for an NA manual. It said my timing has to be 15 degrees before top center. Is this the timing that i adjust with the PTU or the cam timing?


CrazedZ32Owner
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Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 11:59 am
Car: 91 Z32 TT(no motor), 2008 350Z Nismo, 05 Pontiac Sunfire speed machine!!! :)
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im pretty sure its cam timing b/c i just got a Z1 ECU for my TT. Im pretty sure BTC refers to timing in relation to the cams and when the valves open and close.... or i may have just told you something you already know :inout: lol

itsa300zx
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Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
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15 degree BTDC is stock mechanical timing

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grk nickafis
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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:17 pm
Car: Looking for something fun.
2011 GMC Sierra
Location: NJ

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i know but i also have some idle problems so I would like to make sure. The Cam sensor was replaced.

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Milton'Z Nissan'Z
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Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:41 am
Car: 1990 300ZX tt
1990 240SX

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grk nickafis wrote:i know but i also have some idle problems so I would like to make sure. The Cam sensor was replaced.

15 degrees refers to the timing you set by adjusting the CAS. If you are having idle problems now, the new ECU will likely not cure that. Personally I'd fix that issue before making any changes as that just adds another item to the mix.

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grk nickafis
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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:17 pm
Car: Looking for something fun.
2011 GMC Sierra
Location: NJ

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alright, i just thought i was running rich at idle and its creating a little pop. It sounds like my car has a heart beat almost.

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Milton'Z Nissan'Z
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Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:41 am
Car: 1990 300ZX tt
1990 240SX

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grk nickafis wrote:alright, i just thought i was running rich at idle and its creating a little pop. It sounds like my car has a heart beat almost.
From your description it sounds like a miss at idle if it isn't idling 100% smooth. Check the connectors are all clean and corrosion free on the CAS and the injectors. While the connectors are off, use multimeter to check the injectors are in spec (10 to 14 ohms). If they are more than an ohm or so off, that could be the problem. Also make sure all vacuum lines are on and none leaking.

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grk nickafis
Posts: 510
Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:17 pm
Car: Looking for something fun.
2011 GMC Sierra
Location: NJ

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yeah i might have a vacuum leak. I dont really know, theres plenty wrong with this engine and trans. When I'm cruising, (usually 40+ mph) i pop it into neutral, the rpms bounce from 300-1000 and sometimes it just dies. i wonder if thats related. I know my injectors are probably going bad. it makes a noise in one of the cylinders and someone said that was an injector once. I ignored them and the noise and the stalling and the idle pops. haha

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grk nickafis
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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:17 pm
Car: Looking for something fun.
2011 GMC Sierra
Location: NJ

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Well I got my new ECU. No Big differences except rev limiter is at 7500 now. I still feel the same amount of power, and a little bit more torque. Can't floor it in the rain in first or second gear without spinning tires at any RPM

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es.biggs
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:32 am
Car: 1990 300ZX 5sp NA
Location: Charlotte, NC

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when I got my car it used to pop and run rough - my CAS was adjusted wrong, it was closer to 11* before TDC.

You might want to get your hands on a timing light and check it out.

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grk nickafis
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Joined: Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:17 pm
Car: Looking for something fun.
2011 GMC Sierra
Location: NJ

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yeah i thought about that, i replaced my CAS myself and just got my hands on a timing light. Not exactly sure how to hook it up without a distributor. I'm used to my old DSM

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es.biggs
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Car: 1990 300ZX 5sp NA
Location: Charlotte, NC

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search and you will find more details, but in a nutshell you hook it to your battery with the power/ground leads. Then you look at your ptu, and there will be a black wire hanging out that kinda goes in a loop, looks like its out of place. It actually serves a purpose: hook the inductive pickup on the timing light to that black wire. Then start the car and aim at the crank pulley; watch for the tick mark to light up somewhere on the pulley before it gets to the top. There is a bracket with number 30..20..10..0 I think it goes. You want to adjust the CAS to where the mark lights up at 15. If you are at 10, loosen the CAS bolts and LIGHTLY tap it to counterclockwise (were talking millimeters here) to advance the timing. Vice versa if you are on the 20 side. Tighten down, start up and check again. Repeat until its right at 15.


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