New daily driver

[RobPaulson]

Well its been a while NICO! But I finally picked up a vehicle worthy of my attention and modifications. 2013 Subaru WRX! (I know I know, its not a nissan. I couldnt bring myself to get another altima, maximas are too big now, and the Z was just a bit impractical for me. Still love the brand, just not for me right meow)



Got a great deal on it (learned a LOT from my previous buying experience), or at leas the corn hole wasn't sore after the fact. Its got the sunroof/fogs/hotseats package.

As for my take on the car? I am SEVERELY impressed. My primary experience with WRX's had been with my friends 2004 STi. And let me tell you, off the line, it feels a lot like that car. Hugs the road and has an amazingly short throw right out of the box. I am still breaking it in though so I still havent ACTUALLY opened her up yet.

Which brings me to the next topic of conversation, break in period for new engines. Myth or necessary?

[WDRacing]

I'd say 500 miles is suitable. Make sure you do lots of high vacuum driving, meaning letting it motor break. This will help seat the piston rings.

Change the oil between 500 and 1000 miles.

Nice purchase!

[sx moneypit]

Nice car Gerry!
Whatcha been up to lately (besides buying the car)?

[RobPaulson]

I'd say 500 miles is suitable. Make sure you do lots of high vacuum driving, meaning letting it motor break. This will help seat the piston rings.

Change the oil between 500 and 1000 miles.

Nice purchase!

High Vacuum driving? Could I assume thats cruising around 2-2.5k to open up the engine?

Nice car Gerry!
Whatcha been up to lately (besides buying the car)?

not much ben, loving the new job. Def doesnt allow for much NICO time though. I'll be looking into getting HID's and some head/tail overlays first thing though, i was a lil butt hurt when i found out she came with halogen lamps, weaksauce. (on that note, could anyone recommend a great HID kit manufacturer?)

[gwoods]

I think engine braking is the hardest thing you can do to a motor, especially a new motor. Use the brakes to stop the car for the first 1000 miles.

We just got a new Sequoia and I did its first oil change at 900 miles. It takes 0-20 weight full syn and holds 8 quarts of it makes for an exspensive oil change. I got Toyota to give me 2/24000 free maintenance with no extra charge for full syn oil and remote start alarm for free after we negotiated everything else :-)

Nice car I am a fan of these! Way to keep the economy moving!

[Bubba1]

Congrats on the new ride.
Before doing ''high vacuuming" or driving a sustained rpm, or do a quick oil change, I strongly suggest you read the owners manual and follow what they recommend for the break-in period. You might end up doing more harm than good if you deviate from the manufacturer's instructions

[WDRacing]

The first couple hundred miles are the most important. If you drive your car gently you'll have a less efficient motor. The rings are seated/worn in during the first few hundred miles. The first 10 heat cycles are actually the most important. You don't want sustained rpm, you don't want to lug your motor and you don't want too much heat. You want short bursts of high load, not to redline, but enough rpm to hit peak torque. Once you hit peak torque, decel on the motor for a second or two. Drive normal in between bursts of acceleration to insure you're not overheating the cylinders. Too much heat causes a glaze. Not enough load usually also causes a glaze. Repeat this process and you'll get optimum compression ring seat. When you have a good ring seat you have less blow-by, which causes less oil consumption and you have higher compression numbers over all. The more compression you have, the more efficient your motor will be.

I suggest doing some reading on motor break-in. The manufacturers guide is probably an ok read, but I doubt it's concerned with optimum compression. They're concerned with writing something every Tom, d!ck and Harry can follow.

Don't take my word for it, do some research. You only get one chance to break-in a motor.

[VQpwrdSE-R]

Nice purchase! I actually like the wagon over sedan in this gen.

[MinisterofDOOM]

So that's a 2013? What's the deal with the new bodystyle Imprezas I've been seeing on the road for a good 6-8 months then?

This is the one I mean:


Is the WRX just a year behind in being updated? Subaru has now successfully confused the heck out of me.

BTW, yours is WAY better looking. The new one looks like a Toyota Matrix with a moustache, right down to the fisher-price light housings.

[nissangirl74]

Sweet ride! You need to update your profile.

[breadbox]

MoD that wagon looks like an "updated" mazda protege 5.

Nice job getting a sweet AWD.

[RobPaulson]

Don't take my word for it, do some research. You only get one chance to break-in a motor.

Thanks man, this was great advice. Would have never known.

Is the WRX just a year behind in being updated? Subaru has now successfully confused the heck out of me.

BTW, yours is WAY better looking. The new one looks like a Toyota Matrix with a moustache, right down to the fisher-price light housings.

As far as I'm concerned, the WRX isn't an 'impreza' anymore. It's a unique car now entirely designed for drivers, absolutely love it.

[RobPaulson]

so, i found this.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

i read through it, i get it except for when it states to 'warm up the engine'. Does that mean I just let it idle for a while before i actually drive it and open it up?

[WDRacing]

Warm up means allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.

[LongBeachCoupe]

Yeaaaaah buddy! I dig the hatch, this will be my next ride

[RobPaulson]

Warm up means allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.

i think i screwed up for 2 'drives' yesterday... i opened it up really hard right after starting it. luckily i live in fl, so its not like it was freezing out, but the engine still was not at an 'operating' temp. hope i didnt break anything.

and thanks LBC! its been quite the journey since the AC haha. Love this vehicle but I need to figure out how to make the shifting as smooth as that AC was with the redline oil and the STS. Maybe just some wearing in will do it some good.

[WDRacing]

You won't break anything, but it's definitely a better idea to wait until it's warmed up before putting the engine under a heavy load.

The reasoning behind that is:
The motor oil is not up to operating temp. It will still act as a lubricant, but it is designed to perform best at degree's over 160F for the most part. Cold oil also doesn't circulate as well as warm oil. As a rule, I let my car idle for about a minute before I drive it at all. I don't put the car under a load until it's warmed up.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Your engine has already been romped on at the engine build facility, the final vehicle assembly facility (they have to check brake function, acceleration, ABS sensors, all sorts of stuff on a "rolling road"), the people driving it out of the plant, the test track, the people driving it to the shipping facility, the people driving it on to rails/boats, etc.

WD is pretty spot on for breaking in brand new engines, but you have to remember, your engine isn't new anymore haha.

Read this: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php

Have you ever built an engine yourself or seen anyone else? Notice how much that bad boy smokes when it first starts up? All the coatings and oils and s*** all over the parts is burning off... notice how none of that happens when you buy a new car from the dealership? Cos someone else already burned it off hah.

[Ace2cool]

Car's aren't like motorcycles. Worst ride I ever had was riding my buddy's new '12 Ninja 600 back from the dealer. It BLOWS when you're on a sportbike and can't go faster than 55.