Funny, I did the same exact thing on my RB20. I even pulled the head, reused the bolts and the gasket multiple times. No sealing issues. I also used my own torque value and a different method of seating, something we do on helicopter rotors etc. Just a multi step torque process with timed intervals after the max torque for reseat/retorque until no movement is achieved on every bolt. I usually have to go through every bolt 3-4 times after the final torque before I get no movement. For cleaning I used a brass wire wheel brush mounted on my Makita hand drill on both the block and head every time until they shined. Hit the head with a buffing wheel and slapped them together. The problem is, you'll get some dudes out there leaning on the wire wheel, removing material from the head and ruining it. Or using a metal scraper...all kinds of things can go wrong. I'm comfortable with shade tree work on MY stuff and I've gotten pretty good at it.lexcrob wrote:
I also asked about the recommended ra rating and if it was comparable to cometic. I told them i used a cometic on my rb20 2 years ago with arp headstuds detorqued and torqued to arp's specs. I never had any problems at all I sold the car after 6 months of abuse a whole year later guy that bought it off me called me to tell me he wrecked my car. <<<<he never had one problem pulled motor out and put it in his track car..........
I informed them i never had anything resurfaced and scrapped off the oem graphite gasket myself.
cosworth: "Obviously if there is any imperfection it will compromise the seal. This is the most common case in that during assembly and what not it gets imperfections. If you are worried about the sealing surfaces you can take a large flat steel block and use very fine sand paper to verify no surface imperfections. 1200 grit sand paper or so would work well."
Ive heard of people doing it before but if i remember right they got knocked pretty hard on forums. I guess ill wait for feedback on that
I have never heard of using sand paper and a steel block lol. Seems pretty haggard compared to the way it's done at a good machine shop. I'd also like to hear stories of how this has gone over.lexcrob wrote: I also asked about the recommended ra rating and if it was comparable to cometic. I told them i used a cometic on my rb20 2 years ago with arp headstuds detorqued and torqued to arp's specs. I never had any problems at all I sold the car after 6 months of abuse a whole year later guy that bought it off me called me to tell me he wrecked my car. <<<<he never had one problem pulled motor out and put it in his track car..........
I informed them i never had anything resurfaced and scrapped off the oem graphite gasket myself.
cosworth: "Obviously if there is any imperfection it will compromise the seal. This is the most common case in that during assembly and what not it gets imperfections. If you are worried about the sealing surfaces you can take a large flat steel block and use very fine sand paper to verify no surface imperfections. 1200 grit sand paper or so would work well."
Ive heard of people doing it before but if i remember right they got knocked pretty hard on forums. I guess ill wait for feedback on that