New clutch will not engage??

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jerryk
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Car: 1990 240SX
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My mechanic just finished installing my 90’ 24-SX Se clutch / transmission with 80/90w oil and reported back late last night that clutch will not engage. I just had the transmission rebuilt with new bearings and seals and have a new centerforce stage II clutch. The master and slave are only 8 years old. What should he do and look for? Are there two sets of hydraulics to bleed? If I need a new master and slave where can I get them a good price?


180fan
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probably needs to bleed the air out of the system more sufficiently. If you're changing the clutch, now might be a good time to have the damper loop pulled out and a new master and slave put in.

jerryk
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What is the function of the damper loop why should it be pulled out.? . I am sure it is there for a good reason. How much should the master and slave cost di\o you know a goosd source?

jerryk
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Car: 1990 240SX
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jerryk wrote:What is the function of the damper loop why should it be pulled out.? . I am sure it is there for a good reason. How much should the master and slave cost do you know a good source?

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Thebigjc
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I had a similar problem with a throw out bearing butmy car was squealing like a banshee when that happened. BTW you should have that replaced as well it's cheap part and more often than not when I've had my transmission rebuilt they cheaped out and didn't replace it. (Doesnt help that I forget to ask for it.)

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TougeMS13
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jerryk wrote:What is the function of the damper loop why should it be pulled out.? . I am sure it is there for a good reason. How much should the master and slave cost di\o you know a goosd source?
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/That should answer that for you. Makes bleeding a ton easier. Get a Stainless clutch line if you dont feel like bending the hard line.

edit: and get a new mechanic

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karmakaze
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TougeMS13 wrote:edit: and get a new mechanic

jerryk
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Joined: Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:59 am
Car: 1990 240SX
Location: Bronx NY

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karmakaze wrote:
I would love to but he is holding my car hostage with I’m still working on it”. Tomorrow will be one week and I have just about had enough.

Joe
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tell him to adjust the pedal.

jerryk
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Kamin wrote:tell him to adjust the pedal.
He did that today and now the only problem left is the whirring sound in neutral with the car running. If you depress the clutch pedal to the floor, the noise stops. Items performed all transmission bearings, seals replaced new master, and slave cylinders, new pilot bushing new throw out bearing CenterForce clutch, which is the same unit I had before. He dropped the transmission tonight to inspect everything said the throw out bearing is in correctly and the clutch is aligned properly. Now he is going to send it back to the place that did the transmission seals and bearings. He said that the noise must be coming from inside the transmission because there are parts inside that spin all the time except when the pedal in on the floor. Is that true?

Joe
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yes

sounds like the input shaft bearing.

jerryk
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Kamin wrote:yes

sounds like the input shaft bearing.
The person who rebuilt the bearings and seals took it apart again and said nothing was wrong. My mechanic reinstalled the transmission and the noise is still there. You hear it in neutral you hear it when you drive. The only time you do not hear it is when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Maybe if I described the noise more. It sound like something that not rotating perfectly centered or there is a high spot with two pieces that are coming into contact. So the faster the engine revs the faster chin chin chin sound. I sat in the car and the clutch pedal feels very good and tight with a hair trigger shifting location but I experienced it with my last centerforce clutch before it eased in. The gear shifting is now much easier. It's that dam noise I just know it is going to lead to an early mortality of a part. One more thing the clutch started slipping 3 months ago but since I was driving less then 80 miles per week I put off the change looking for a 240SX with better frame condition. My 90’ 240SX has severe rust on the rails etc. One month before I did the change this noise began to develop. When my mechanic took out the transmission he said the pilot bushing was shot and that is what caused the noise. After 17 years with this car, I know it’s every noise and feel. I am grasping at straws and you seem to know what you are talking about could a warped or unevenly milled flywheel cause this? I did have it resurfaced but who knows. Is there any way of spinning the transmission from the drive shaft side and see if it spins without a wobble? Should the rebuild shop have performed this? Would a stethoscope be able to localize the noise? What else should I look for? I am calling up centerforce tomorrow. If this failed the transmission rebuild person offered to take it out of the car and remount it. However, if this something they are both missing it will be for nothing.

Color me desperate.


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