New clutch shudder

[dgeesaman]

I replaced the clutch in my 97 Max SE with an ACT Stage 1. New t/o bearing, didn't touch the pilot bushing. Engine mounts are good, but old. Just a few miles on it (about 5), and it loves to shudder on low rpm engagement. So reverse and 1st are a treat. I've done some reading and it appears this is common during break-in.

1) What is the 'proper' break-in procedure? Should I make my clutch engagement as low and concise as possible and try to ignore the shuddering? Or do the opposite - avoid shuddering by holding the revs just high enough to get smooth engagement? (obviously not smoking the thing)

Sometimes if the stock clutch was shuddering, I found that slipping the clutch for a few seconds without applying much torque would 'clean' the face. Is this a no-no right now?

2) On installation, I was cramped for time and did not resurface the flywheel. Since I don't launch this car, and the flywheel looked very good, I figured it was a minor risk to take. I remember cleaning the flywheel with brake cleaner, but may still have gotten some greasy fingerprints on it. I did NOT clean the pressure plate (duh, seeing as it also rubs on the disc). Is either of these 'mistakes'.

Thanks in advance. This board is solid gold.

Dave

[yellow_jacket]

You should have cleaned the pressure plate as well. A lot of the manufacturers will coat it with an oil to to impede corrosion. The one or two greasy finger prints on the flywheel should not be a problem.

As for the shuttering. You should have resurfaced the flywheel. There are probably a few hot spots on it. Most of the time that is the source of the problem.

[dgeesaman]

Is it likely that the gunk on the pressure plate and high spots on the flywheel will break in? Obviously I'll drive it gently. (Since it's a whole lot easier to wait a thousand miles than to drop the transmission again)

If there is a next time, I'll probably buy an old stock flywheel, get it resurfaced, and swap them. And not forget to clean the pressure plate

Dave