New Clutch Problem

[skatermatt180]

I need to know if I put this clutch on wrong or if its just out of adjustment.

I can start it in gear with the clutch pedal not pressed, but at the same time, while its running I can jack up the rear tire and it will go and disengage in gear. There isnt any noise from the transmission or anything no vibration at all. I need to know if I screwed something up or the clutch isnt adjusted properly. BTW I have searched for the answer.

[skatermatt180]

bump

[Bwana]

So you can put the trans in say, 1st gear, not touch the clutch pedal and start the car and it goes nowhere? You shouldn't even be able to crank the car without depressing the clutch in the first place...

[MaximA32]

I agree. Describe the entire problem for us, strange noises, time of day and etc.

[skatermatt180]

any time of day... I dont see why that matters, but cool

I can start the car in 1st with my slave installed, but I took it off and bumped the clutch fork and it jumped back a little. Put it in first with the e-brake on and went to start it like before. It felt like the clutch was gripping right. I think it has to do with that stupid clutch dampener pos, so Im ordering a nice steel braided straight from the master to the slave. What do you guys think? I think I couldnt properly bleed it...this way it will be easier.

[skatermatt180]

I agree. Describe the entire problem for us, strange noises, time of day and etc.

No strange noises either.

[skatermatt180]

So you can put the trans in say, 1st gear, not touch the clutch pedal and start the car and it goes nowhere? You shouldn't even be able to crank the car without depressing the clutch in the first place...

I did an auto to manual conversion and I havent hooked up the clutch switch yet.

[Bwana]

Gotcha. Yea, the "dampener" thing is a piece of junk. I just processed an article that Kenny wrote on bypassing that, but I'm not sure if it's been published yet. I'll post it in here for ya.

[Bwana]

The purpose of this mod is to take the play out of the hydraulic clutch on the S13. When you install a heavy aftermarket clutch, sometimes the hydraulic system struggles to handle the added pressure when you depress the clutch pedal. This is evident when the clutch has been fully bled but still doesn't want to disengage all the way. For some this mod is done purely because they like the stiff, live feeling of the pedal afterwards. You have a closer connection with what your clutch is doing.

I must warn you, before doing this, that you could seriously screw your clutch system up if you do this wrong. If you don't have access to replacement hard lines, you may want to reconsider bending yours until you do. As always when playing with brake fluid, be sure not to drink it or get it in your eyes... and keep it off your paint! (it eats paint really quickly) Brake fluid washes out with water.



Here you can see the bottom half of the hydraulic clutch system as Nissan intended it. The hard line from the clutch master cylinder comes down to the lower block. This block has a loop back line that acts like a surge tank, taking pressure off the system. This is what causes the weakness. The short hard line then routes to the soft slave cylinder line. What we will be doing is eliminating the loop back and both blocks.



A closer look at the system



Here we are disconnecting all of the hard lines.



After removal of the short line, take the long line and carefully bend it by hand. Be sure not kink it. You will be turning it around and point it into the slave cylinder connection directly.



Here you can see the finished product.



Now go ahead and remove the loop back and blocks. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and bleed the clutch line. You will find bleeding this system takes only a few minutes, instead of all day like the stock system.

Contributed By: NSR A32

[skatermatt180]

What can I say Bwana, your pretty much a GOD

Thanks for the help!