new ca and running extremly rich

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
ScottieDoritfto
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i have no idea why its running really rich. i just replaced the rod bearings and put in the engine. and after it fired it up some what ruff idle. and is running extremly rich, and fouls the plugs up after a couple minutes and hesitates alot when i try to drive it. i check for vaccum leaks but it must be a pretty savage leak if its running that rich. any thought or ideas would be greatly appriated


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ilovecoupes
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check your timingcheck for any codes from the ecu

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biosehnsucht
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what MAF are you using ? what injectors ?is the ECU stock ? what spark plugs?

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ca18detgabby
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biosehnsucht wrote:what MAF are you using ? what injectors ?is the ECU stock ? what spark plugs?
lol how many times have I read one of the forum members ask this question or something very similar when a question like this comes up.

Ca_Silvia
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If you do not have any codes, the timing is where it is suppose to be and your running the right amount of fuel pressure. Boost leak test you car. Im willing to bet money on that being your issue

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biosehnsucht
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ca18detgabby wrote:
lol how many times have I read one of the forum members ask this question or something very similar when a question like this comes up.
I just like to try getting enough facts in before attempting to armchair diagnose. Besides we've seen a ton of people in the last year or so, trying to run unknown modded ECU's with a variety of injectors / MAF, or stock ECU with bigger injectors..

If anything a leak would run lean at idle, at least until the O2 warmed up, then the ECU could most likely (depending on leak size) compensate... but then once you get into boost, it'll leak the other way and be rich..

He's running rich at idle, so it's probably not that.

dash
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recheck the connectors near the front of the intake are attached to thecorrect item. They can reach the wrong items & get mixed up - car runs like ch1t then

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biosehnsucht
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that reminds me, one time I accidentally hooked up my 2nd and 3rd (I think, it was two adjacent ones) injector connectors backwards. THAT was not so hot, ran like total crap.

ScottieDoritfto
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Update..

okay i started thinking maybe it was the igntion because it did back fire i found a couple problems with the coil packs, and i repair the problems. cleaned area the plug area, and hooked it back up, but it ran a little better for a minute. but then plugs fouled again. and im running out of ideas. what sensors would cause the the ecu to put so much fuel in? FYI the O2 sensor isnt hooked up aswell. im confused on wiring when i got it. but it should make it run that rich. i checked the maf and it checked out fine, i checked the tps it checkout fine im running out of things.

anything else?

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float_6969
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Is this a stock ECU? Stock injectors? Have you checked the codes?

ScottieDoritfto
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im not sure i just got the car, i just sorta left the fc3s scene. so im kinda really new to the car. i dont know if the ecu is chipped or not i dont know what maf sensor it is, also i dont know about the injectors. FYI also my first time ever having boost. is there any way to check if there none oem like codes or color codes. etc.

new kinda of engine and car so im completely out of the loop.

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ca18detgabby
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ScottieDoritfto wrote:im not sure i just got the car, i just sorta left the fc3s scene. so im kinda really new to the car. i dont know if the ecu is chipped or not i dont know what maf sensor it is, also i dont know about the injectors. FYI also my first time ever having boost. is there any way to check if there none oem like codes or color codes. etc.

new kinda of engine and car so im completely out of the loop.
what can you tell us? I mean there is a million components that all can cause issues and then create similar issues you are experiencing.

what is your idle like? what does it say on MAFS(as in the coding)? check the passenger kick panel for the ECU and unscrew it..... and take a pic someone should be able to tell you if it is a burned ECU or not.....

maybe an image of the motor or atleast a discription of things you do know about it(intake, exhaust, FMIC, ect)...... could be a leaky injector, could be bad coil pack. coolant temp sensor.....

best thing you could do to start with is pull the ECU and take it to autozone to check for codes.

kind of hard to diagnose a patient w.o seeing them.... or atleast knowing their symptoms. Because cold medicine isnt going to do you any good for a blatter infection.

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ca18detgabby
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biosehnsucht wrote:
I just like to try getting enough facts in before attempting to armchair diagnose. Besides we've seen a ton of people in the last year or so, trying to run unknown modded ECU's with a variety of injectors / MAF, or stock ECU with bigger injectors..
I know it is getting a bit crazy, but I guess finding total bone stock CA stuff these days is impossible to find.
biosehnsucht wrote:If anything a leak would run lean at idle, at least until the O2 warmed up, then the ECU could most likely (depending on leak size) compensate... but then once you get into boost, it'll leak the other way and be rich..

He's running rich at idle, so it's probably not that.
wouldnt a leak release pressure thus less air is inducted and the same amount of fuel is still being added. thus you would be running rich.

ScottieDoritfto
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okay as soon as i get my digital camera working i will try to put some pictures up and i know what you mean im sorry, but heres a couple things i have done that have checked out fine. i check the fuel pressure, and it read 30psi at idle and about 35psi at revv. i got new spark plugs gapepd to 1.1m and they fouled out after driving it around the block... also i tested the temp sensor, and it came out at 410 ohms im not sure sure what its supposed to be at, and that was at warm temp. and i dont know if this helps but the big code on the is 99. like i said i dont know if it helps. plus i was checking around the injectors and it seems to have some sort of moisture i dont know if the injectors are leaking but would that cause it to run rich, also when im under the hood, and i rev from the throttle body smells like fuel and a sorta clear smoke comes from the exhaust side. havent tracked it down yet, it ildes kinda of ruff when warm but smooth when cold. when its warm it trys to die.

sorry for the all the writing but im just telling you everything i know.

i'll try to get some pictures up soon

thanks for your guys imput

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biosehnsucht
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Check the pressure by pulling out the fuel pump relay, and jumpering the connection so that it is bypassed, then just put key on (don't start the car) this way you'll get an accurate reading. Should be 36.3 (or in other words, 36 as near as you can tell).

Fuel smell and such is worrying. I'd look into that, and keep a fire extinguisher handy

dattodude
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Download the 25megabyte s13 FSM and start diagnosing.

**** man, it could be this, it could be that. If you don't know if the car is standard, it's like trying to play baseball on the moon.

q1. are your injectors white colour coded? That would make them standard.q2. is the temp sensor red?q3. does the ECU look standard.q4. do you run the factory air box or a pod, (and some strange Air flow meter)?

It's probably something stupid like a leaking injector or buggered coil.

You need to play the game of: which cylinder is bad..and is it spark or fuel.

If no cylinder is bad...it's an airleak.

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biosehnsucht
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screw that you want the 33MB one, that one has a section index and isn't missing pages. I think the 25MB one is missing pages. Also, more scrolling since the sections aren't bookmarked.

ScottieDoritfto
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alright i have a update i talked to the guy that i got the car from and he's saying its the blow off valve, cause there used to be a RFL but now im pretty sure its a no name, so either i could try and respring it or get another one or just get a pipe, and delete it until i can get another one, and see if i notice a difference.

also i checked the injectors and there white color codedand the maf sensor is a pod, i tryed to put up a picture but it wont load my cd

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ca18detgabby
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biosehnsucht wrote:screw that you want the 33MB one, that one has a section index and isn't missing pages. I think the 25MB one is missing pages. Also, more scrolling since the sections aren't bookmarked.
OMG! I want I want!


ScottieDoritfto wrote:alright i have a update i talked to the guy that i got the car from and he's saying its the blow off valve, cause there used to be a RFL but now im pretty sure its a no name, so either i could try and respring it or get another one or just get a pipe, and delete it until i can get another one, and see if i notice a difference.

also i checked the injectors and there white color codedand the maf sensor is a pod, i tryed to put up a picture but it wont load my cd
this is why we are having trouble diagnosing w/o knowing things. white? like a bright white or a cream color?

ScottieDoritfto
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Okay i Offically feel like a dumbass... after check almost every component i found the problem...it was the damn blow off valve, it was beezy rigged, and the pistion stayed open

so i took that **** out and just put some pipe there, and now it runs like a champ

thanks for all of your guys imput and help i know it was stupid cause arm chair diagnosing is stupid. but i appirate all of your guys patience with me.

thanks again

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ca18detgabby
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glad to hear you got it rollin!

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mbmbmb23
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dattodude wrote:
**** man, it could be this, it could be that. If you don't know if the car is standard, it's like trying to play baseball on the moon.
Haha....so true. Sounds like something I would say.


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