New brake squeak

[G'd up]

hello everybody. i recently got new front brakes (pads and rotors) on my g sedan. i had them done by a friend and not professionaly. while doing them my caliper bolt snapped due to neglect from previous owner. so i went to advanced auto parts and they didnt cary one for a g so i got one for an altima. thankfully it fit. but besides that now when my i tap my brakes they squeek BUT only if i apply minimal pressure. if i brake hard they are fine. once again its only when i first apply the brakes for a second or if i apply very little/ minimal pressure.

could this be cause they are new brakes and new rotors and have not set yet. its only been like 24 hours since i did them. please can somebody chime in and let me know if this has happened to them b4

thanks everybody

[Sentientbydesign]

Did you use the silicone brake lubricant between the piston and the pad?

That's a huge part in doing your brakes. The little packet only costs a buck. Go invest, if you haven't.

Make sure you do a proper break in with the pads/rotors. For the first 500 miles you shouldn't EVER apply 100% pressure. Frequent pulses between 20% and 50% are advised. You'll have to do a search for pad/rotor break-in for complete directions.

[gwoods]

I would use white lithium grease instead of silicone.

When I did mine I used a 99 cent paint brush to apply a little white lithium grease to the back of the pads before I put the calipers back on. It makes the difference between squeal and no squeal!

[telcoman]

I would use white lithium grease instead of silicone.

When I did mine I used a 99 cent paint brush to apply a little white lithium grease to the back of the pads before I put the calipers back on. It makes the difference between squeal and no squeal!

Is it necessary to machine the rotors when replacing pads?

[goneracin]

I would get the rotors turned. There is a lot of stuff from the old pads still on your rotors that you can't see. Plus, most places only charge about $10-$15 a rotor to turn them. If they aren't warped, they won't take that much off. But if you can,t get them turned, at least clean them by hand with some brake parts cleaner.

[gwoods]

Is it necessary to machine the rotors when replacing pads?

Man you missed my thread!

I put on new pads and rotors

If you don't turn the rotors the pads life will be cut at least in half.

[Sentientbydesign]

If you don't turn the rotors the pads life will be cut at least in half.

Ah ah ah ah.

I spoke to one of the technicians at Powerslot (I swear by their rotors) and the tech said that turning is only necessary if the rotors are very uneven or you are changing pad types (even within the same manufacturer).

He said that if you stick with the same pad, you'll be fine as the material that is embedded in the rotor is the same that is on the pad (as it SHOULD be per our conversation).

Turning can be a royal pain in the *** too because some rotors won't take to the pad materials as well once they're turned.

[C-Kwik]

Did you use the silicone brake lubricant between the piston and the pad?

That's a huge part in doing your brakes. The little packet only costs a buck. Go invest, if you haven't.

Make sure you do a proper break in with the pads/rotors. For the first 500 miles you shouldn't EVER apply 100% pressure. Frequent pulses between 20% and 50% are advised. You'll have to do a search for pad/rotor break-in for complete directions.

There is a product called Disc Brake Quiet. Works wonders. Apply it to the back of the pads per the instructions and most squeaking will be eliminated or reduced. They have a spray can version as well, which works well, is easy to apply and the can will probably last longer than your car (I've been using the same can for 5 years on several different cars).

As for bedding in a pad: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml

[C-Kwik]

Is it necessary to machine the rotors when replacing pads?

Generally speaking, I would. Even if its just a very minimal amount off the surface. If you are using the same pads, then as long as the rotors don't have any thickness variations or warping, then it will be fine. Just make sure the pad physically seats and gets past the point of green fade for maximum performance.

[gwoods]

1# He said that if you stick with the same pad, you'll be fine as the material that is embedded in the rotor is the same that is on the pad (as it SHOULD be per our conversation).

2# Turning can be a royal pain in the *** too because some rotors won't take to the pad materials as well once they're turned.

I agree with #1 disagree with #2.

Finding the same pads can be a PITA too.

I like to replace the rotors every time? I'll see how my new brakes work out but I'm only into them for $330 including shipping so if they last a year of racing and to and from work I'll gladly pay another $330 for a set of rotors and ceramic pads.

[Sentientbydesign]

#2 is from personal experience. I only run Powerslot/Hawk setup on my I30 and getting around 10k miles per set of pads means I don't like switching around and having rotors turned.

Each rotor last me 3-4 sets of pads. Much better than the Infiniti ones which died after the second set.

[G'd up]

k well i just got new rotors and new pads less then 100 miles ago and it only sqeeks when im in reverse or low miles an hour with slight braking??? any ideas how i could fix this??? or what this could be from>

[tollboothwilley]

it sounds like your brakes are not fully bedded in.

follow the link C-Kwik gave you...

i always do a series of speed to almost stop...3-4 from 30 MPH down to about 5-103-4 about 50 down to about 10and 2-3 from 60 down to 30

I've never had a problem