New aquisition

[djdopamine]

That vibration your feeling while braking is most likely your brake rotors. I had the same problem on my TT just a week after buying it. Apparently they had a problem with this until 1993 or so. The rotors become warped.

[ztommyx]

Thanks...

Just trying to restore it to its former glory before going crazy on upgrades...

Nice Z as well on your sig... Very nice Z actually! Love the rims with the deap dish...

thanks for the compliment. my Z pics can be found all over NICO.

Quote »That vibration your feeling while braking is most likely your brake rotors. I had the same problem on my TT just a week after buying it. Apparently they had a problem with this until 1993 or so. The rotors become warped.[/quote]i believe he's already replaced it w/ new rotors...

might be wheel bearings or perhaps the front end has been damaged before?

[pintovit]

Hi,

yes, replaced the rotors like 700 miles ago and the vibration is still there.

The mechanic I spoke to told me the bushing can get so worned out that it allows enough play that under braking can cause this vibration. At least he solved this in his z32 by replacing the bushing....

Fingers crossed...

Cheers.

[DCaff300ZX]

^^ wow.. real die-hard Z lover here... nice Z btw...

Diehard indeed, I like that.

Stay with her and she'll make you happy on the road, even as she cleans out your wallet...

[pintovit]

I plan to keep her until it becomes impossible.

Regarding the wallet cleaning... Well, it went through the good part of $7000 in the last two years just going through issues that were there mostly since I bought it... Bad thing about being in Portugal (or Europe for that matter) is buying stuff from the States is expensive shipping and customs wise. At least the dollar is weak otherwise it would be a lot worse. Also here the mechanics hour rate is much more affordable.

However I tend to put things in this perspective: a new car, average one, would cost me $40k around here... And would loose 20% in it's first year in depreciation alone... At least the z32 is now pretty stable on that matter. So all the math done, if you can live with a almost 20 year old car and it's niggles, it is a good deal financially (and I certainly can live with a z32 with 20 or 40 or 60 years, if it keeps running strong and reliably)...

Cheers!

[andrez]

nice car and you are going about it the right way................just remember though.........."dad can i borrow the car" will happen

[pintovit]

Well, I hope so... It would mean that 15 years from now, the car would still be around...

Of course a huge NO will be the reply...

We'll see....

[1 Super ZX]

I'm loving the progress you are making with your car I'm in the same position you were in last year i just got my Z and it drives beautifully but it has its small flaws. Well the best of luck to you and your car.

[pintovit]

Thanks for the feedback! It is being a slower progress than what I wished but money comes in at a constant slow flow and goes out in big chunks!

However, I'm confident that it is just a matter of time...

Best of luck with yours!

[DCaff300ZX]

GREAT attitud

I plan to keep her until it becomes impossible.

Regarding the wallet cleaning... Well, it went through the good part of $7000 in the last two years just going through issues that were there mostly since I bought it... Bad thing about being in Portugal (or Europe for that matter) is buying stuff from the States is expensive shipping and customs wise. At least the dollar is weak otherwise it would be a lot worse. Also here the mechanics hour rate is much more affordable.

However I tend to put things in this perspective: a new car, average one, would cost me $40k around here... And would loose 20% in it's first year in depreciation alone... At least the z32 is now pretty stable on that matter. So all the math done, if you can live with a almost 20 year old car and it's niggles, it is a good deal financially (and I certainly can live with a z32 with 20 or 40 or 60 years, if it keeps running strong and reliably)...

Cheers!

GREAT attitude, I see cars the same way you do!

The Z is an expensive PITA to be sure as even my '67 Ford Mustang GTA big block I had when I was a kid was easier to work on, and ESPECIALLY diagnose, but it's worth it overall because the money drain comes whether you fix the current ride or buy a new one.

Like you, I'd prefer to be seen in a Z32 than anything else!

[pintovit]

So... Ordered a couple more goodies...

CPZ chip + boost jets2 Infinity speakers for the rearHIDs...Clear side markers...

Ztill at the shop... I'll let you know when it comes out...Hate waiting...

[NissanFairladyZ32]

I love the color of the Z in your Sig

[jedijeff123]

I love the color of the Z in your Sig

paint the UniZ that color then!

[pintovit]

I love the color of the Z in your Sig

Its my Z...

I do like it very much although it is quite burned from the sun... Probably will try to correct it... If I don't like the outcome, then a paintjob...

[pintovit]

She lives!!!

After almost 1 month at the shop, yesterday we took it for the a short ride to settle the new bushings... But we could get a taste of what's to come...

She felt easier to pickup revs, probably due to the aluminum pulley and the free-er exhaust (the cats were gutted and now she has a more gutty exhaust note)... But on boost... Oh well... It felt MUCH stronger...

HIDs were another fantastic improvement... So much that now the other lights look like candles! I have to upgrade them as well!

Today they will be doing last checks like fluid levels, re-tightening all the suspension parts, leak checks, etc... End of the day we'll try to put it on the dyno...

Globally, the first impressions were very positive. It felt like a worthy "investment"... I'll try to update this in the next days as I'll start to drive it more...

Cheers,Vítor

[pintovit]

Ok...

So what's the verdict so far?

Well... Somehow we managed to brake the diff case lid (the aluminum plate on the rear of the diff)... It looked like the diff was having too much stress caused by the new bushings... The lid was "welded" with liquid metal from the inside to ensure it didn't spill any oil and the bushes were a little bit "shaved" to allow couple of mm more of room for the diff... So far it is hanging on...

But the diff itself is making a lot of noise which it didn't... This noise was there since the bushing was replaced and not only after we welded the lid.It feels like a sprocket not perfectly aligned or too tight. On 1st gear, taking it to 6000 (gently or not, doesn't matter for the exercise) and lifting off, you get a huge resonating sound in the cabin... Same for other gears just not as loud as 1st gear...

Brakes are still awful... Replacing the bushing did not help... I'll have to recondition the rotors (although they have 2000 miles in them) and the hubs (not sure it is called a hub but it is the face where the rotor attaches)...

Other than that she is fantastic... The engine is responding much better (you can drive around making good progress in what feels like 2mm of throttle travel) and on boost it is much stronger... It also idles with less vibrations and same things goes for turning on and off...She also feels much more tight on the suspension department... Lateral movement of the body (specially from the rear) going over depressions at speed were eliminated... She feels more precise and gives a lot more confidence on the limit.

Fantastic...

So besides the diff noise and the brakes, it was a hell of a change. Shame there are always bits a pieces left... But hey... On a 16-17 year old car, I guess the work is never finished!

Thanks for all the support around here!

Oh, and although CPZ was great shipping stuff, getting my doubts clear, even providing help when I called them (twice about the bushing)... The shorter belts they sent (because of the alum pulley) are crap...

Anyway, I'm still a loyal customer... Just a small ding on a otherwise impeccable service record...

[pintovit]

Hi guys,

Been a while since I update this thread...

Meanwhile, there has been some news.

After the last work I reported, the clutch started letting go because of the chip+boost jets.

So I ordered a RPS flywheel + Southbend stage 3 + everything else new inside the clutch:
Nismo Pilot Bushing - Needle Bearing
Nissan OEM Throw Out Bearing
CZP Silicone Clutch Booster Check Valve to Plenum Blue
Nissan OEM Withdrawal Lever Fork Spring
Nissan OEM Withdrawal Lever Fork
SS Clutch Line
CZP Chromoly Clutch Pivot Ball
Nissan OEM Clutch Slave Cylinder
Nissan OEM Rear Main Seal
Nissan OEM Transmission Reverse Light Switch
Nissan OEM Throw Out Bearing Sleeve
Nissan OEM Throw Out Bearing Sleeve Spring

The result was amazing. The clutch pedal is now light and it doesn't feel a pain in the arse driving in traffic. It also holds the power without a sweat. Sometimes it vibrates slightly when taking off but I guess that is normal due to the segmented flywheel.

Besides that, new bushings were sent (for free! thanks Coz) for the diff. Although they are polyurethane as well, they seem to be much softer (they are black instead of red, does that mean anything?) and the diff was easier to install as well as the driveshaft. However, the diff was still noisy.

Meanwhile, we were trying to find out where the vibrations we could feel at higher speeds came from. We found out that one of the HICAS harms had a lot of slack in it. So a new Nissan OEM 300ZX Rear Outer Ball Joint - Hicas and a Nissan OEM 300ZX Inner Tie Rod - Rear Hicas was ordered.
Along that, Redline 75W90 GL5 to shut up the diff.
So after that vibration improved (although still there) and the diff is still noisy!

So, then we found that the left half-shaft was bent. Found a pair of used ones in the UK. After these installed, the vibration improved a LOT but it is still not smooth. After 110mph it starts shaking (although much less then before). More diagnose needed.

After driving it for a while, I got tired of the slack on the diff... It is now more noticeable and it does a loud "clanck" when changing gear especially on the lower gears (when releasing the clutch to be more accurate). Found a used diff on the UK and brought it home. It will be installed (or worst case scenario, we'll try to make a good diff out of two bad ones) in the near future so I'll let you know how that went.

On another path of events, I had a boost leak that caused the boost to drop and rise and drop and rise... So I ordered the HKS EVC-S because some people pointed to a boost solenoid issue. Well, the boost leak was found and the car now boosts perfectly but the EBC was already ordered and will now be installed. Along with that, a new pair of slotted Stoptech stock replacement rotors and SS brakes lines from Goodridge.

The exterior was in need of some loving so... New paint job on the front fascia. New rear stock replacement spoiler (in fiberglass). The rear wiper arm will be erased along with the water jet and the radio antenna (replaced by a interior one)... After all this and some dings and scratches are fixed, the paint will be treated to recover some of the shine it once had. After all this, it should be looking much better and with a sleek and clean rear end.

I'll post pics and feedback on the mechanics when it is all done...

Cheers everyone for the help and sound advice you guys keep throwing in!

[Vanessalalinda]

YAY!!!

[pintovit]

Hi Vanessa! Whasup?

Good to see you on my "endless list of money spending" thread!

[Vanessalalinda]

hahhahah it sure does look endless. Can't wait to see more pics!
I"m good! I have a red nose for now though lol. the one I had was all broken up on the inside.

[pintovit]

Can't wait to see more pics!

That makes two of us!!!!

I"m good! I have a red nose for now though lol. the one I had was all broken up on the inside.

lol

Can't be difficult to paint black though.

Or everything else RED!

[Vanessalalinda]

its actually blue! and yeah i'll get it painted soon. shouldn't be too bad.

[pintovit]

ooooppppssss

It looks very dark on your sig, that's why I said black... Anyway, everyone nows that
blue>black

[Vanessalalinda]

fo sho

[Ace2cool]

Nah, black is where its at ;p

And pintovit, I'm glad to see you're finally starting to sort everything out and that you stuck with it through all the quirks and fits, haha. Good luck with the diff swap/frankenstein and be sure to let is know how it turns out!

[pintovit]

Thanks man... I'm trying... But it is a long long road...

I'll post updates for sure.

[pintovit]

No real news... Things didn't move that much since last update but:

- Goodridge kit is CRAP! The quality of the materials is aparently very good BUT it won't fit! Upper connections (to the chassis brake line) don't match. Also the kit comes without any fixation points for the lines. Well, I'll have one of the ends of the line redone so it will fit (one for each line since the other ends do match so 4 new ends in total). I'll fab the fixations somehow. And before some one asks, yes, I believe is the right kit for a z32. Apparently there were lots of people complaining about the same and only a small group could fit it without modification (at least on a group buy thread I read somewhere).

Also it will be fully painted. We went through all the panels that needed paint and the only ones that escaped were the wood and the rear right quarter and the rear bumper. What the heck... And will be going for the wingless (or spoilerless, as you which) and the paint roughness at the bottom smoothed... And I'll keep the BLUE! I love it.

Don't ask for pics because I won't post any until she is painted!

Can't wait...

[Ace2cool]

Haha, must be your diesel that helps you save money hm? Sorry to hear about the brake kit not working out correctly. Really sounds like the manufacturer should he reimbursing you for money spent on fabrication. After you get it sorted out, however, I have a feeling it will brake like you expect it to.

[pintovit]

You bet! With gasoline this expensive, having the zed parked on the mechanic alone enables me to save money to pay him!!!

Really hope it will start braking as it should.

Regarding the lines, the new ends will be pretty cheap so I won't even bother. Read that people sent their original lines to Goodridge and even then they couldn't get it right... Anyway, it is about to get sorted so...

Now one question... The "new" diff is a little different. I never thought there were several diff models for the z32 TT but aparently there are. Mine has a vacuum line going into it and the one I found doesn't. Does any one knows what's that for?

Other than that, they are exactly the same and it bolted perfectly into place.

Cheers for following guys!
Take care.

[Ace2cool]

Hm, don't quite know about that. What would there be a vacuum line there for anyways? I wonder what it controls?