New 71 240Z owner with a question

[djwarner]

Taking possession of a 71 240Z series 1 next Wednesday and I am planning a cross country trip to bring it home. I need a couple questions answered before I go.

Does this vehicle need a lube job? I've searched the online manuals but haven't found service instructions.

This will a 1,000 mile trip. Most hoses, alternator, fuel pump, plugs, distributor, leads have been changed and dual Weber carbs rebuilt and valve lifters adjusted. Anything I should be on the look out for?

I understand original fuel specs was 95 Octane minimum. Is it worth the trouble to add acetone to our premium gas?

Any suspension bushings that need to be checked?

Thanks in advance

[evildky]

It counds like allthe posible issues have been delt with. Make sure you have a good spare, tire iron and jack in the car. It's also a good idea to keep some jumper cables in the car. CHeck the wheel bearins for play, make sure the belts and tight and show no signs of wear, and the all the coolant hoses are in good shape (be sure to look a the heater hoses and intake warm up hoses).

Pump gas is fine, the early cars came with bronze vave seats, most have been changed in the last 40 years so I wouldn't sweat it unless ou develope a miss a idle, should be fine for a 1k drive. The octane isn't the issue it was the lead and the valve seats, ask what the seller normally runs, most likely 87 octane will be just fine.

The wipers and headlights suck. Avoid night or rain travel if you can.

Suspension wise if the chassis is solid the car sould be sine for the trip, the tie rods and ball joints are seaed from the factory but again most likely have been changed in the last 40 years and if you get an oil change it's a good idea to grease up any joint tha now has a grease fitting

These cas and pretty simple and very ependable, honestly the thing I'd worry about is those webber cabs, they are far more complicated than the stock SU's and don't really offer any performance advantage, I'd swap them back to stock. The DGV's tend to puddle in the adapter's and cause a real rich condition when taking of from a light, for me it's SU's, tripples,or fuel injection.

[djwarner]

Thanks for your help. I was told today that the Weber downdraft carbs are prone to vapor lock especially here in Tampa.

[evildky]

It's not really the carbs that vapor lock it's the fuel lines, a lot of people will wrap the fuel lines inside the engine bay with high temp reflective insulation, popping the hood can help let some of the heat out and hopefully prevent this being an issue for your drive home, generally it's only an issue for hot restarts so whenever you stop for gas or food just pop the hood. Is the stock heat shield under the carbs still in place? This helps keep the carbs and lines cool and it doesn't have to be removed for dgv's so lets hope it's still there.

If you like to get the eigine in the higher rpm range an electronic distributor upgrade is a must.

[djwarner]

Got to inspect the car yesterday AM. Body is realy sound having lived its life in Glendale Ca and Roanoake VA until 2009. Been garaged in Ohio since then. Engine and body numbers match and I will be the 3rd titled owner.

Closed the deal in Dayton at noon and made it to Dalton GA that night. Only disappointment was a missing Servo check valve for the power brakes. Made it to Tampa by 4:00PM today.

All in all got 28MPG while averaging 73 MPH. Not bad for an automatic.

Oil consumption was high, 4 qts for the 1,000 mile trip. But the engine does have 162K on it.

Will see if this continues around town.

Again thanks for the help.