Hello all,

I just picked up a vey nice 2011 FX35 AWD.
It has great maintenance records, however, it does have 134,000 miles on it.
I plan on getting the front and rear differential fluid changed, as well as the transfer case.
However, is it recommended to do the transmission fluid as well after all these miles? It has never been done as far as I know, and is not on the Carfax report.
She shifts great from what I can tell so far…nothing major, and everything seems smooth.
Should I have it done? What are your thoughts or advice?

Thanks so much for the help.

Take a look at the fluid. If it's still transparent (even if it's brown and smelly) it's okay to change it. If it's translucent or soupy then leave it alone till it breaks.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 23, 2022 8:31 pm

Take a look at the fluid. If it's still transparent (even if it's brown and smelly) it's okay to change it. If it's translucent or soupy then leave it alone till it breaks.

Awesome advice….thank you. I appreciate the help.
I will check out the fluid in the morning, and report back.
Thanks again!

Hello….there is no Transmission fluid dipstick that I see on my 2011 FX35.
Can someone guide me or lend some advice as to how I check my tranny fluid please.

Thanks so much!
Happy Thanksgiving

For bottom fill trannies with no stick, take the drain plug loose. When it's almost all the way out, fluid will dribble out past the threads. Catch a drop or two on wax paper and another few drops on a clean white napkin or paper towel. The former will let you evaluate clarity and the latter color. Clean the outside surface of the plug before loosening it so your samples won't be contaminated by road grit.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 24, 2022 7:18 am

For bottom fill trannies with no stick, take the drain plug loose. When it's almost all the way out, fluid will dribble out past the threads. Catch a drop or two on wax paper and another few drops on a clean white napkin or paper towel. The former will let you evaluate clarity and the latter color. Clean the outside surface of the plug before loosening it so your samples won't be contaminated by road grit.

You are so very helpful! Thank you so much.
I will try this in the next couple of days, and report back with pictures.
Thanks again!

I used Valvoline Max Life ATF is a suitable replacement for Nissan Matic “J” or Matic “S” and it sells for less than $20/gallon vs. Nissan ATF that sells for $20/qt. I personally have used this in my 2004 FX with no noncerns whatsoever.

Your drivetrain also needs a fluid change after 100,000 miles. And I think Valvoline also make a Matic-D compatible fluid and it says so on the label. So I wouldn't use Nissan branded fluid, which is made by another Japanese company just like Castrol Oil make ATF for American companies.

Then you need to find a way to pump new fluid back into your transmission side port if you don't have dipstick. To do this I recommend you use a $18 scavenge pump you can buy on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Extract ... 63&sr=8-14

The Infiniti dealer wanted to charge me $450 to do just the drive train fluid change. What a rip-off! My local mechanic did all three fluid changes in 45 minutes.

GENERAL ATF RE-CHARGE COMMENTS (Other Infiniti Forum Post):
https://www.infinitifx.org/threads/conf ... uid.37723/

No matter if your car has a dipstick or not, you might want to consider these points;

* Transmission fluid expands a lot as your engine temperature rises from cold to ~180F, whicih is the rating for your water thermostat. This ATF expanaion can be as much as 10-20%.

* Normal transmission temperatures run in the 165F range (under no load) and increase under load (like when you climb a hill).

* Don't worry about changing your tranny filter if you have a screen type. This will saves you time and money and reduces your changes of "crud" coming loose inside the tranny and affecting solenoid switches.

* If you re-charge your ATF, do it with the engine cold. I.e., before the first start-up that day.

* We have found Valvoline Max Life ATF is a suitable replacement for Nissan Matic “J” or Matic “S” and it sells for less than $20/gallon vs. Nissan ATF that sells for $20/qt. I personally have used this in my 2004 FX with no noncerns whatsoever.

Note: Many shops will no longer change your ATF using an exchange pump, because they don't want the liability something will go wrong with a high mileage car. However, I also would not want to use an exchange pump anyway when you can do an full ATF flush by figuring out what side of your transmission cooler has the ATF return line; and when you do you just need to attach a drain like to a 1 gallon milk jug to collect the ATF... after you start the car and let the transmission pump expell the ATF into the milk jug.

This method works great and you just put back 3.5-3.75 quarts at a time for every 3.5-3.75 quarts of ATF you take out. And you do this 3x. And keep track of what you take out vs. what you put back so you know these quantities are the same. And only do this with cold ATF fluid so both the new ATF and the old ATF are at the same temperature. I.e., do not warm up your engine first!

* Your transmission pan hold about 3.75 quarts, but your total ATF fluid holds ~10.75 qts.

Note: The ATF system is "serial" in the sense that every 3.75 qts you remove from the transmission return line (co-located/attached to the bottom part of your water radiator) then you will be draining fluid from the tranny pan with every engine start and stop. How? ...You simply start the engine and with the help of a friend, he or she will tell you turn off the engine when the milk jug captures 3.5qts. So this is why you want to shot for 3.5qts per drain cycle.

Note: Start by first draining your old tranny pan ATF and putting new ATF in. Then drain 3.5qts out of the transmission return line. Then repeat 3x. This will allow you to do a more through fluid flush vs. a so called professional exchange pump, which can hurt your transmission. So never no that route!!! I.e, don't let a shop change your ATF. Do it yourself using the method describe above.

Then you need to find a way to pump new fluid back into your transmission side port if you don't have dipstick. To do this I recommend you use a $18 scavenge pump you can buy on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Extract ... 63&sr=8-14

I should add that it's easy to drain your AWD trans-axel and differential. The "Stealer" wanted $450 to change my oit. what a ripoff. There is nothing special about this and all "holes" are easily accessible. So, the next time you have your car on a mechanic's rack, you migth want to ask them to spend 45 minutes to change-out your driveline oils. (Note: Most oil-change-shops will not want to do this so you need to find a neighborhood mechinic who sees your Infiniti as "nothing special." i.e., Infiniti likes to copy the Mercedes model for customer service, which is a scam as well. (See the thread posted above for additional comments.)

Here is the forum link that addresses how I changed my 2004 Infiniti FX45 that has a dipstick:

https://www.infinitifx.org/threads/2004 ... ost-311012