Just here to introduce myself. Wanted one of these cars since they came out. Bought this one from a friend that needed to get rid of it. Doesn't run and had to get it towed to my house. Will inspect in the morning as it has been raining all day here in North Florida. I'll post pics as soon as possible.

Welcome!
Sounds like you will have a serious project on hand, here's hoping the problems that left it not running are not too severe. Hopefully you know your way around these cars, a lot of areas to cover and possibly repair/replace if not already done. Be sure to note we have a service manual in the "Everything you need to know...Z32" sticky on the top of the page that is invaluable for tests and troubleshooting the Z32.
Good Luck!

Thanks! So it turned out to be the little plastic tab, on the clutch pedal, that pushes in the clutch safety switch. It was gone.

Car started and idled for a bit then began running rough and shut off. Tank was almost empty so I added a couple gallons of premium and tried again. Now car will only rev limits at 2500 rpm and wont idle. Did some research and I am going to change out the MAF sensor.
Any suggestions would be great.

jtrip wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:39 pm

Thanks! So it turned out to be the little plastic tab, on the clutch pedal, that pushes in the clutch safety switch. It was gone.

Car started and idled for a bit then began running rough and shut off. Tank was almost empty so I added a couple gallons of premium and tried again. Now car will only rev limits at 2500 rpm and wont idle. Did some research and I am going to change out the MAF sensor.
Any suggestions would be great.

I'll just say that due to the car starting and running OK to begin, that the MAF may not be the issue. Idle is controlled by the IACV, a notorious problem in that the unit itself can become gunked up and cause issues, and the IACV harness also is notorious for corrosion issues and broken connectors. The pcv hoses connecting to the IACV can also become brittle/broken and be a vacuum leak.
Other contributors to the bad idle are vacuum leaks from cracked/missing vacuum hoses, and the pcv setup can become clogged/non-functional as well...all areas needing inspection as well as others. Corrosion of connectors and bad injectors are usually the two biggest issues with the Z32, but the other issues also carry a lot of weight so a complete inspection is best practice.
Again, the fsm has all the tests and such to help with idle issues and many others, a very necessary tool for these cars.
Hope this helps, good luck!

Ok. Thanks for the info. I'm not a mechanic but I pretend to be one on the weekends. Sounds like you could be right. The MAF sensor was cheap enough so I went ahead and bought it. The IACV looks to be more expensive and I dont want to just throw parts and money at it. So hopefully I'll get it figured out.

fwiw first thing I thought when you said wont rev past 2500 is something maf related

also post pics of the car!

LIBRILZ wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:03 am

fwiw first thing I thought when you said wont rev past 2500 is something maf related

also post pics of the car!

Well, the part was cheap enough so I thought I'd try it first (MAF). The car isn't pretty but I will post pics soon. Service records are there with a recent timing belt change and clutch work. I am so ready to drive it but it is in desperate need of tires also. So, it's a project car but for some reason I love these projects and can't wait to get it on the road.

So, it was the MAF sensor. Car revved past 2500 and sounded good while doing it.I got a chance to drive it and the car pulled good through all the gears. Only problem now is she wants to stall when I shift into neutral. Doesn't want to stay idled...unless I turn the A/C on. Go figure.

Ordered some BFG sport comp-2 tires so will be waiting for those to arrive.

Cool car. She's going to be fun to drive. I can only imagine what the twin turbo feels like.

I had a similar stall issue when I first got my TT this past summer. I had just gotten it and hadn't done anything to the car (OO only had exhaust and "Skyline brakes" put on). It wasn't a chronic issue, but it seemed like it would want to stall, or would stall, when dropping down abruptly from higher RPM/load. I also had an idle hunting issue once the car was warmed up (600-900 RPM oscillation). Of course, typical first mod is the intake... the dual OEM filters were disgusting. I could bang them on the garage floor and be left with a debris field. After putting on the high-flow intake, hunting was gone and no more stalling.

Without knowing your setup, I'm just sharing what I encountered. I've also read about stalling issues if there's too much turbulence around the intake, if you have an aftermarket intake installed - due to improper filter orientation and/or missing splash shields. If you do have a cone filter, it should be angled a bit forward and held in place by running the stud on the nose of the filter through the rubber flap that's right there. Here's a decent write up - paragraph #9 speaks to the stud/screw location I mentioned:

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/pop/pop.html

Yes, the TT is a blast to drive - and quite addictive.