Previous to today, the car was sitting for about a year, and was started about once a week, no problems before I let the car sit, car was running fine.
Just put the car back on the road yesterday, and it was running fine all day yesterday, and this morning on my way to work.
I was at work, and on my lunch break I decided to take the car for a wash.
Ok so the car is running fine and I pull up to the car wash. It was freezing out, so I leave the heat on full blast, and start washing the car. When I return the car is not running.
I go to start up the car, and it fires right up, jumps to 1000RPM for one second, then dies So now I'm really worried (still in the car wash bay).
I try again, and again, same thing. Fires right up first shot, then dies.
I start it up and keep my foot on the gas, and it takes more pressure on the accelerator to get it higher in the RPM range, but it does wind up all the way to 6K, no problem, running a little rough though.
I was hoping I could bring the car up in the RPM range, and clear out whatever the problem was. No luck. The car continues to start and die unless my foot is on the gas pedal.
I get it out of the car wash bay, and park it on the side of the road. Try bringing the RPMs up in Park and Neutral, letting it sit for a while, etc. The car starts to idle if I bring the RPMs down VERY slowly, and it's idling around 2-300RPM (barely running).
My first thought is the idle isn't high enough for whatever reason, so I get the manual, and adjust the idle control screw. No luck, no change either way, still just running really rough, barely, at 2-300RPM.
I limped the car home by keeping it in 1st/2nd gears so the RPMs won't fall to sharp when I am slowing down.
My friend tells me there is some black smoke coming out of the exhuast pipe, and I am not sure if this could be because I played with the Idle Control Screw. I don't think so, because this only effects the idle, right?
I am thinking the worst, something engine related...
What could this possible be? I have never had ANY problems with my J30 until now, this car has been great.
I will be checking this post all night and all day tomorrow. The car is outside, I am willing to try anything or provide any information you need to help me.
SORRY FOR THE LONG POST, IF YOUR STILL READING THANKS SO MUCH!!!
Never needed everyone's help this much...
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driverdriver
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Re: Never needed everyone's help this much... (J30Guy612)
maybe not related (i had the same with trying to get a TT engine to idle, but without black smoke, but give it a shot), if there is black smoke, then a non-turbo engine would be running rich (or in other words, there seems to be gas escaping the combustion chamber without being burnt), if it is a turbo engine, then might be that or the turbo is about to go
first things first, do an onboard diagnoses using the Engine Control Unit (ECU), the following works for all 1993-1995 J30 and J30t models, it is located in the passenger side (if you are sitting in the passenger side, it would be where your right foot is when resting it against the right side wall), remove that cover (becarefull not to break the clips) remove the three screws to free the ecu (keep it pluged to the wiring), you will see a screw looking thing that has a whole right beside it in one of the edges of the ecu, turn the ignition to the on position (dont start the engine), rotate that screw clockwise untill it stops, and then fully counter-clockwise untill it stops, you will notice a red LED that would start blinking if there is something wrong, the blinks refer to numbers, the decodings are available in this forum, let us know of what comes up
make sure that your Mass Air Flow sensor has a clean connection, also make sure that your ignitor chip's connections (2 connections) are clean and that no water has gotten in...., check the gas cap, when you open it, it should make a sound of air escaping, also make sure that your oil fill up cap is closed tightly, and that the dipstick is in place fully pushed in (yes all of the above can cause the engine to run rough) turn the engine on with adjusting the rpm high enough to keep it working, lean down so your ears are close to the engine, try listening for a vacuum leak sound along the sides and the back of the engine, it would sound like (psssssshhhhhhhhh... i wish i could post a sound clip), if there is one, then locate it and connect the vacuum line accordingly, i doubt that this is the problem, as the engine will not stal unless the vacuum leak is big, but it is worth a try (always try the easiest things first)..... my engine was running very rough once because the fuel regulator vacuum line was not connected
now with the engine running (dont worry, this wont harm the engine at all), unplug one coil at a time (the connection to the coils that are right above the spark plugs), when you unplug each coil, the engine's rpm should go down (do it fast enough not to make the engine stall, so you wont have to start it each time), try to find a coil that would not make a difference in rpm, and that would be the problem
i guess that this is a lot to digest for one post, let us know which one of these is the problem, hope this helps man, i know how much that sucks, good luck, i'll be checking again later on tonight,
first things first, do an onboard diagnoses using the Engine Control Unit (ECU), the following works for all 1993-1995 J30 and J30t models, it is located in the passenger side (if you are sitting in the passenger side, it would be where your right foot is when resting it against the right side wall), remove that cover (becarefull not to break the clips) remove the three screws to free the ecu (keep it pluged to the wiring), you will see a screw looking thing that has a whole right beside it in one of the edges of the ecu, turn the ignition to the on position (dont start the engine), rotate that screw clockwise untill it stops, and then fully counter-clockwise untill it stops, you will notice a red LED that would start blinking if there is something wrong, the blinks refer to numbers, the decodings are available in this forum, let us know of what comes up
make sure that your Mass Air Flow sensor has a clean connection, also make sure that your ignitor chip's connections (2 connections) are clean and that no water has gotten in...., check the gas cap, when you open it, it should make a sound of air escaping, also make sure that your oil fill up cap is closed tightly, and that the dipstick is in place fully pushed in (yes all of the above can cause the engine to run rough) turn the engine on with adjusting the rpm high enough to keep it working, lean down so your ears are close to the engine, try listening for a vacuum leak sound along the sides and the back of the engine, it would sound like (psssssshhhhhhhhh... i wish i could post a sound clip), if there is one, then locate it and connect the vacuum line accordingly, i doubt that this is the problem, as the engine will not stal unless the vacuum leak is big, but it is worth a try (always try the easiest things first)..... my engine was running very rough once because the fuel regulator vacuum line was not connected
now with the engine running (dont worry, this wont harm the engine at all), unplug one coil at a time (the connection to the coils that are right above the spark plugs), when you unplug each coil, the engine's rpm should go down (do it fast enough not to make the engine stall, so you wont have to start it each time), try to find a coil that would not make a difference in rpm, and that would be the problem
i guess that this is a lot to digest for one post, let us know which one of these is the problem, hope this helps man, i know how much that sucks, good luck, i'll be checking again later on tonight,
Re: Never needed everyone's help this much... (95-j30t)
Ok so here's the plan:
1) Check the ECU for blinkling LEDs.
2) Check MAF connection.
3) Check ignitor chip connections. Where are these located? Going to check the FSM right now, in case I can't find it in there though.
4) Check gas cap.
5) Unplug each coil, should see a drop in RPMs. Used to do this with my old car, with a fuel management system, electronically used to be able to hit a button on my laptop to disable each for a second, wish that was the case here
Oil dipstick is pushed in, checked that.
Listened for vacuum leaks with my head practically touching the top of the motor haha, one of my first thoughts - I have owned 2 Eagle Talons (Turbo AWD) and vacuum leaks plague those things. I will double check though.
All of this info is GREAT man, just awesome, thanks so much. Its 11PM, and 15 degrees outside, so I think I am going to attempt tomorrow first thing.
**95-j30t - What do you think about a fuel issue, would that cause similiar conditions? I have heard a slight whirring noise coming from the rear of the car, and it can only be the fuel pump.
The only thing that threw me off here, was if I pegged the gas, RPMs would eventually go up (with alot of pressure). Any input on this?
However, I am starting to think this may be correct because from 2-300RPM idle, when I hit the gas, I would have to give it a lot more than usual, and then 1-2 seconds later the car would get moving (not getting fuel until then maybe?).
THANKS SO MUCH!!!
1) Check the ECU for blinkling LEDs.
2) Check MAF connection.
3) Check ignitor chip connections. Where are these located? Going to check the FSM right now, in case I can't find it in there though.
4) Check gas cap.
5) Unplug each coil, should see a drop in RPMs. Used to do this with my old car, with a fuel management system, electronically used to be able to hit a button on my laptop to disable each for a second, wish that was the case here
Oil dipstick is pushed in, checked that.
Listened for vacuum leaks with my head practically touching the top of the motor haha, one of my first thoughts - I have owned 2 Eagle Talons (Turbo AWD) and vacuum leaks plague those things. I will double check though.
All of this info is GREAT man, just awesome, thanks so much. Its 11PM, and 15 degrees outside, so I think I am going to attempt tomorrow first thing.
**95-j30t - What do you think about a fuel issue, would that cause similiar conditions? I have heard a slight whirring noise coming from the rear of the car, and it can only be the fuel pump.
The only thing that threw me off here, was if I pegged the gas, RPMs would eventually go up (with alot of pressure). Any input on this?
However, I am starting to think this may be correct because from 2-300RPM idle, when I hit the gas, I would have to give it a lot more than usual, and then 1-2 seconds later the car would get moving (not getting fuel until then maybe?).
THANKS SO MUCH!!!
Re: (driverdriver)
Driver please see the bottom section of my last post, didn't want you to miss it because of all my babble.
Thanks both of you guys!!!
Thanks both of you guys!!!
Re: (J30Guy612)
do you mean that the gas pedal needs more force from your foot to push it down?? as that would be very strange (that would be a first), if that is the case, then the throttle anatomy is simple and can easily be diagnosed...
about the gas issue, the fuel pump does make a sound when working, you would be able to hear it when you turn the ignition on without starting the car, and once the car is on, you would hear it if you are concentrating on the sound when accelerating, that is absolutely normal
it seems from what you are saying that there is gas that is going into the engine and out of the exhaust without being burnt (that would cause black smoke, so that is why i'm suspecting that to be the cause), so the ECU is sending a signal to the fuel pump to pump more gas to compinsate for the loss of power, you can check that using two methods, first one, smell the exhaust fumes (cautiously) when the engine is running and slightly warm, second, open up the oil fill cap, if there is a fuel smell, then there is fuel that is not burning.... gas that did not burn does go down into the oil when the engine is off, that is normal, and doesnt mean that you have bad piston rings
NOTE: i wouldnt drive the car for long with a fuel smell in the oil, as the gas will cause the oil to be thin, and eventually cause a spun bearing, so be carefull. change the oil first before you start to drive it normally
if the above is negative, then it would be the opposite, in other words, the engine is not getting enough fuel, check the injectors using an ohm meter, with the engine off, unplug each injector, and ohm it, it should give a reading between 10-14 ohm.. and if all that checks out then it would be your fuel pump or cleaning the injectors (although both are rare cases in these engines)
hope this helps, i'll be checking again tomorrow morning
about the gas issue, the fuel pump does make a sound when working, you would be able to hear it when you turn the ignition on without starting the car, and once the car is on, you would hear it if you are concentrating on the sound when accelerating, that is absolutely normal
it seems from what you are saying that there is gas that is going into the engine and out of the exhaust without being burnt (that would cause black smoke, so that is why i'm suspecting that to be the cause), so the ECU is sending a signal to the fuel pump to pump more gas to compinsate for the loss of power, you can check that using two methods, first one, smell the exhaust fumes (cautiously) when the engine is running and slightly warm, second, open up the oil fill cap, if there is a fuel smell, then there is fuel that is not burning.... gas that did not burn does go down into the oil when the engine is off, that is normal, and doesnt mean that you have bad piston rings
NOTE: i wouldnt drive the car for long with a fuel smell in the oil, as the gas will cause the oil to be thin, and eventually cause a spun bearing, so be carefull. change the oil first before you start to drive it normally
if the above is negative, then it would be the opposite, in other words, the engine is not getting enough fuel, check the injectors using an ohm meter, with the engine off, unplug each injector, and ohm it, it should give a reading between 10-14 ohm.. and if all that checks out then it would be your fuel pump or cleaning the injectors (although both are rare cases in these engines)
hope this helps, i'll be checking again tomorrow morning
Re: (95-j30t)
Ok about the gas pedal, I used the wrong word.
Not more force, as in the pedal itself if harder to push down, but usually when I just tap the gas pedal the RPMs fly up and the car goes right away. Since this issue, I have to get to probably 50% throttle or more to get an increase in RPMs or speed.
Before I parked the car I drove it for about a year and a half straight, and after about 6 or 7 months I did notice the "whirring" noise for th first time honestly. So either for the first 6 or 7 months, I either somehow didn't manage to hear it driving it everyday, or it did indeed get louder. I think it definately got louder.
However, it seems like I have conflicting clues as to what the problem is:
Car is slow getting going, barely idling, running rough all through RPM range, makes me think the car isn't getting enough fuel.
Black smoke out of the exhaust makes me think the car isn't burning the fuel it's getting, or getting too much. Injectors, spark, etc.
Tomorrow I am going to check out all of the above things you mentioned 95-j30t, and take it from there. I am also going to pickup supplies to make a fuel pressure test kit.
Questions:
When I smell the exhuast fumes, what am I looking for? Just the smell of fuel strongly?
Not more force, as in the pedal itself if harder to push down, but usually when I just tap the gas pedal the RPMs fly up and the car goes right away. Since this issue, I have to get to probably 50% throttle or more to get an increase in RPMs or speed.
Before I parked the car I drove it for about a year and a half straight, and after about 6 or 7 months I did notice the "whirring" noise for th first time honestly. So either for the first 6 or 7 months, I either somehow didn't manage to hear it driving it everyday, or it did indeed get louder. I think it definately got louder.
However, it seems like I have conflicting clues as to what the problem is:
Car is slow getting going, barely idling, running rough all through RPM range, makes me think the car isn't getting enough fuel.
Black smoke out of the exhaust makes me think the car isn't burning the fuel it's getting, or getting too much. Injectors, spark, etc.
Tomorrow I am going to check out all of the above things you mentioned 95-j30t, and take it from there. I am also going to pickup supplies to make a fuel pressure test kit.
Questions:
When I smell the exhuast fumes, what am I looking for? Just the smell of fuel strongly?
Re: (J30Guy612)
yes, a strong fuel smell is what you would be looking for......
if you noticed a difference in the sound of the fuel pump, that could be an issue too, but if you hear a sound coming from it, then it should be working (at least to get you to solve the above problem)
it is most likely that the engine is getting enough fuel, but it is just not burning it all, due to a bad coil or spark plug. so if the ECU detects that the engine is not providing sufficient power (due to the fuel that is going to the engine but not burning), it would send a signal to the fuel pump to increase the fuel supply to the engine, which will eventually cause it to run rich.... that is not the only case that would cause this situation, but it is a strong possibility, along with a vacuum leak.....
run a compression test for the fuel and the pistons if you can, that can also be an issue, but i wouldnt go there before checking the obvous stuff first
by the way, what is the octane level in fuel that you use ?
if you noticed a difference in the sound of the fuel pump, that could be an issue too, but if you hear a sound coming from it, then it should be working (at least to get you to solve the above problem)
it is most likely that the engine is getting enough fuel, but it is just not burning it all, due to a bad coil or spark plug. so if the ECU detects that the engine is not providing sufficient power (due to the fuel that is going to the engine but not burning), it would send a signal to the fuel pump to increase the fuel supply to the engine, which will eventually cause it to run rich.... that is not the only case that would cause this situation, but it is a strong possibility, along with a vacuum leak.....
run a compression test for the fuel and the pistons if you can, that can also be an issue, but i wouldnt go there before checking the obvous stuff first
by the way, what is the octane level in fuel that you use ?
Re: (95-j30t)
Alright well thanks very much for all your help 95, I owe you BIG time!
I'm using 93 octane, the highest I can get around here now, no more 94 I only get gas at Mobil or Sunoco also, no independent places.
I don't have access to a compression test kit, I thought about that just for peace of mind
I am going to start off tomorrow trying some of the things you mentioned above, and also rigging up a fuel pressure gauge, can't hurt to know if the motor is getting proper fuel pressure.
Quick question:
Have you installed a fuel pump in one of these cars?
I've located the procedure in the FSM, but the only part I can't figure out is which interior part you have to remove to gain access to the fuel pump and sending unit?
This has me puzzled, just in case tomorrow I find out it's the fuel pump, I'd like to know ahead of time.
Also, I am in Boston for school, so I don't have access to my buddy's garage, or any tools. It's awful. Anyway, if you could let me know what tools are involved for the fuel pump install if you can remember that would be awesome.
Thanks again 95, if you have any free time tomorrow please stop by, you seem to know these cars very well and all your help is greatly appreciated!
I'm using 93 octane, the highest I can get around here now, no more 94 I only get gas at Mobil or Sunoco also, no independent places.
I don't have access to a compression test kit, I thought about that just for peace of mind
I am going to start off tomorrow trying some of the things you mentioned above, and also rigging up a fuel pressure gauge, can't hurt to know if the motor is getting proper fuel pressure.
Quick question:
Have you installed a fuel pump in one of these cars?
I've located the procedure in the FSM, but the only part I can't figure out is which interior part you have to remove to gain access to the fuel pump and sending unit?
This has me puzzled, just in case tomorrow I find out it's the fuel pump, I'd like to know ahead of time.
Also, I am in Boston for school, so I don't have access to my buddy's garage, or any tools. It's awful. Anyway, if you could let me know what tools are involved for the fuel pump install if you can remember that would be awesome.
Thanks again 95, if you have any free time tomorrow please stop by, you seem to know these cars very well and all your help is greatly appreciated!
Re: (J30Guy612)
Ok guys, woke up early this morning, and started the car - the car starts up AND idles perfectly, not running rough or anything, not stalling no problems.
Well I figure this is to good to be true, and decide to take it for about an hour drive to actually see if the problem is gone, or if it's still there.
Drive around the city for about 20min, no problems.
Get on the highway, 20min, no problems.
Take the exit off the highway, when I let off the gas and slow down, she stalls. And I am back to square one. When I restart the car, she fires up for one second, then dies. If I lower the RPMs very slowly, the car will idle again around 3-400 RPM, barely running.
Now I'm about 30min away from my house, and I have to get back on the highway. I manage to get back on the highway, and when I am giving the car a good amount of throttle, it runs pretty much normal.
However, when I take pressure off the gas pedal to slow down, she kind of stutters or misfires. I had the cruise control on the entire time, and then the cruise was accelerating (up a hill) it seems to be fine, however when it's not accelerating (down a hill) it stutters or misfires or something.
I do this the entire ride home, and then I am back in the city traffic. I am using the 1st/2nd gear technique so the RPMs fall slowly rather than in Drive where they fall sharply when you let off the accelerator.
From a stop, when she is idling around 4-500RPM, chugging, barely running when I give it gas it takes a second to actually get moving.
I removed the oil dipstick, and I DEFINATELY SMELL FUEL.
So I am starting to think that there is unburnt fuel that may be causing my problem, but I don't understand this because when I first started the car (after sitting all night in 10 degree weather) she fires right up and idles fine. I was under the impression that when these cars first start, and it's cold they run extremely rich? But it ran fine for the first 20min after starting?
I am confused, and don't know which way to go about this.
Anyone have any input or suggestions???
Well I figure this is to good to be true, and decide to take it for about an hour drive to actually see if the problem is gone, or if it's still there.
Drive around the city for about 20min, no problems.
Get on the highway, 20min, no problems.
Take the exit off the highway, when I let off the gas and slow down, she stalls. And I am back to square one. When I restart the car, she fires up for one second, then dies. If I lower the RPMs very slowly, the car will idle again around 3-400 RPM, barely running.
Now I'm about 30min away from my house, and I have to get back on the highway. I manage to get back on the highway, and when I am giving the car a good amount of throttle, it runs pretty much normal.
However, when I take pressure off the gas pedal to slow down, she kind of stutters or misfires. I had the cruise control on the entire time, and then the cruise was accelerating (up a hill) it seems to be fine, however when it's not accelerating (down a hill) it stutters or misfires or something.
I do this the entire ride home, and then I am back in the city traffic. I am using the 1st/2nd gear technique so the RPMs fall slowly rather than in Drive where they fall sharply when you let off the accelerator.
From a stop, when she is idling around 4-500RPM, chugging, barely running when I give it gas it takes a second to actually get moving.
I removed the oil dipstick, and I DEFINATELY SMELL FUEL.
So I am starting to think that there is unburnt fuel that may be causing my problem, but I don't understand this because when I first started the car (after sitting all night in 10 degree weather) she fires right up and idles fine. I was under the impression that when these cars first start, and it's cold they run extremely rich? But it ran fine for the first 20min after starting?
I am confused, and don't know which way to go about this.
Anyone have any input or suggestions???
Re: (J30Guy612)
Spoke to a buddy of mine (mechanic), and he mentioned the idle control motor, and that they can get clogged up with carbon and stuff.
Anyone know how I can clean this bad boy?
Thanks!
Anyone know how I can clean this bad boy?
Thanks!
Re: (J30Guy612)
i'm starting to think that it is a spark issue since you smell gas in the oil, test your coils.... wait untill the car starts to shuttre, and then take one coil connection at a time, untill you find the one that is not making a difference, take out the coil (2x12mm), then get any known good spark plug that you have laying around, connect it to the coil and connect the wiring to the coil, and then ground the plug to the intake, and turn on the car, you should be able to see spark being generated in the spark plug, if not then the coil is bad, if it sparks, then it could be the spark plug that is installed in that cylinder, replace it......
if you smell gas in the oil then that means that your fuel managment should be okay, but the gas is not burning
i would run codes using the ECU for a start, because it would give you the right diagnoses if it can detect it. so i would suggest that you get the codes, and we'll take it from there
i really doubt that it is the idle air control, because if it is dirty or clogged, then the car would run rough all the time regardless of rpm
hope this helps man, good luck with the cold weather, it is freezing up here too....
if you smell gas in the oil then that means that your fuel managment should be okay, but the gas is not burning
i would run codes using the ECU for a start, because it would give you the right diagnoses if it can detect it. so i would suggest that you get the codes, and we'll take it from there
i really doubt that it is the idle air control, because if it is dirty or clogged, then the car would run rough all the time regardless of rpm
hope this helps man, good luck with the cold weather, it is freezing up here too....
Re: (95-j30t)
I am going to check the computer codes in a little bit, just getting all bundled up, it's like 0 degrees outside right now, so I will pretty much be freezing.
J30: Here are some questions I have, if you could answer them it would really give me a better idea of what's going on, I like to know the reasons behind things and fully understand the problem and why it's doing this:
1) If it were something like a coil or spark related, wouldn't that affect the way the motor runs all the time? When I have my foot on the gas, and I'm pretty much flooring it, the car feels smooth. Wouldn't there always be some sort of misifre or hesitation if it was spark or coil related?
2) And another reason I don't understand the spark and coil idea is the fact that for the first 1/2 hour thr car is turned on, after sitting all night, it runs perfectly fine. After running for a while, that is when the stalling starts. Is this how a spark issue usually happens?
Also after the car stalled a couple times, and I opened her up right afterwards (kind of pissed off) there was a CLOUD of black smoke behind the car from right where I started after it stalled. There wasn't a trail following the car, but just where I started after the stalling, then floored it.
I am going to check out the codes, and report back here in a few hours.
Just looked at the sticky about checking codes, and just wanted to verify something: Does the ECU light only blink if there is a Check Engine light on the instrument panel?
Thanks so much J30, all this information is really helping me out.
*** Just checked the code. However, before checking the code, I disconnected the set of ECU harnesses. I was working in the dark, with me cell phone as the light, so I wasn't really sure what I was doing. So basically before I pulled the code, the ECU harness was completely removed from the ECU for a minute or two. Not sure if the ECU stores error codes, even though the harness has been disconnected?
The code was 5 long blinks, 5 short blinks. I checked this against driverdriver's post about the codes, and what they mean, and couldn't find a match.
I checked the code about 10 seperate times, shutting off car, resetting diagnostic screw, etc.
5 long --- 5 short
Checked quite a few times, because it didn't match up....
Just located 55 in the FSM, and it says "none of the above circuits are malfunctioning"
Damn.
Modified by J30Guy612 at 9:10 PM 2/4/2007
J30: Here are some questions I have, if you could answer them it would really give me a better idea of what's going on, I like to know the reasons behind things and fully understand the problem and why it's doing this:
1) If it were something like a coil or spark related, wouldn't that affect the way the motor runs all the time? When I have my foot on the gas, and I'm pretty much flooring it, the car feels smooth. Wouldn't there always be some sort of misifre or hesitation if it was spark or coil related?
2) And another reason I don't understand the spark and coil idea is the fact that for the first 1/2 hour thr car is turned on, after sitting all night, it runs perfectly fine. After running for a while, that is when the stalling starts. Is this how a spark issue usually happens?
Also after the car stalled a couple times, and I opened her up right afterwards (kind of pissed off) there was a CLOUD of black smoke behind the car from right where I started after it stalled. There wasn't a trail following the car, but just where I started after the stalling, then floored it.
I am going to check out the codes, and report back here in a few hours.
Just looked at the sticky about checking codes, and just wanted to verify something: Does the ECU light only blink if there is a Check Engine light on the instrument panel?
Thanks so much J30, all this information is really helping me out.
*** Just checked the code. However, before checking the code, I disconnected the set of ECU harnesses. I was working in the dark, with me cell phone as the light, so I wasn't really sure what I was doing. So basically before I pulled the code, the ECU harness was completely removed from the ECU for a minute or two. Not sure if the ECU stores error codes, even though the harness has been disconnected?
The code was 5 long blinks, 5 short blinks. I checked this against driverdriver's post about the codes, and what they mean, and couldn't find a match.
I checked the code about 10 seperate times, shutting off car, resetting diagnostic screw, etc.
5 long --- 5 short
Checked quite a few times, because it didn't match up....
Just located 55 in the FSM, and it says "none of the above circuits are malfunctioning"
Damn.
Modified by J30Guy612 at 9:10 PM 2/4/2007
Re: (J30Guy612)
the check engine light also blinks at the same rate..... well it seems like the ecu is not detecting something wrong with any of the circuits and other computers, that also means that all your connections to the vital parts of the engine and fuel management are all good
the J's ECU stores the codes regardless of power suply for at least 12 hours (some say 24 hours, but dont quote me on that), so if you only removed the wiring for an hour or so, it would still show codes prior to that event
always make sure to disconnect the battery terminals before you remove the wiring, otherwise you might cause damage to the ecu..... if the engine turns on, then the ecu is good, just becarefull next time
i'm thinking it is a spark issue, because of the black smoke, and it could come and go, depending on the temperature or vibrations, or amount of gas being supplied, i could be wrong, but from my experiance with these engines, that would be the first thing to check after the ecu codes
it doesnt take long to check the coils, less than 5 minutes, provided that the engine is not idling right, so i'd say take it for a drive near your place (dont go far, you never know, you might have to tow it back or something), wait until the engine looses it's idle, then open the hood, and unplug one coil at a time, and see....
i really hope that this is the problem as it is not expensive to fix, and it can be diagnosed and repaired at home with only a spark plug socket, and a 12mm socket
by the way, when did you change spark plugs last??, also does the engine make any strange knocking sound when it looses consistant idle??
well hope this helps, keep us updated
the J's ECU stores the codes regardless of power suply for at least 12 hours (some say 24 hours, but dont quote me on that), so if you only removed the wiring for an hour or so, it would still show codes prior to that event
always make sure to disconnect the battery terminals before you remove the wiring, otherwise you might cause damage to the ecu..... if the engine turns on, then the ecu is good, just becarefull next time
i'm thinking it is a spark issue, because of the black smoke, and it could come and go, depending on the temperature or vibrations, or amount of gas being supplied, i could be wrong, but from my experiance with these engines, that would be the first thing to check after the ecu codes
it doesnt take long to check the coils, less than 5 minutes, provided that the engine is not idling right, so i'd say take it for a drive near your place (dont go far, you never know, you might have to tow it back or something), wait until the engine looses it's idle, then open the hood, and unplug one coil at a time, and see....
i really hope that this is the problem as it is not expensive to fix, and it can be diagnosed and repaired at home with only a spark plug socket, and a 12mm socket
by the way, when did you change spark plugs last??, also does the engine make any strange knocking sound when it looses consistant idle??
well hope this helps, keep us updated
Re: (95-j30t)
Ok I will definately disconnect the battery next time.
The spark plugs were changed right before the car was parked for the year.
Ok so all I have to do is drive the car around tomorrow, and then when it starts screwing up, unplug the top connector on each coil for a few seconds?
Everytime I do this, the idle should die down a little bit, because it's losing a cylinder. If it doesn't die down, then I know that cylinder wasn't operating properly before unplugging the coil, correct?
I just picked up an entire socket set, ratchets, screwdrivers, etc. because all my tools are back home, and I am about an hour drive away.
No knocking sound, the only sound it makes is like it is struggling to stay running, at 3-400RPMs. Honestly the best way I can put is this: When it's idling very low like that, and about to stall it sounds like it is running a very aggresive set of cams.
I know this may sound dumb, but instead of being very quiet out of the exhuast, it's choppy and not smooth at all. Just like when I put a set of cams in my Eagle Talon.
What size spark plug socket do I need? I have a 3" extension bar, will that be long enough? Do I need a swivel attachment? Anything else? To replace the plugs.
Anyway... I'm going to try unplugging the coils tomorrow. If that doesn't give me some definate clues as to what the problem is, I am going to have to bring it to some Average Joe repair shop, and most likely get completely raped.
Thanks for all the help and information 95-j30t I really appreciate it. I hope your luck turns around with the J30TT and after this transmission swap it's all smooth sailing for you!
Hey man do you have AIM or any messenger software I might be able to contact you on? Just figured I'd ask!
The spark plugs were changed right before the car was parked for the year.
Ok so all I have to do is drive the car around tomorrow, and then when it starts screwing up, unplug the top connector on each coil for a few seconds?
Everytime I do this, the idle should die down a little bit, because it's losing a cylinder. If it doesn't die down, then I know that cylinder wasn't operating properly before unplugging the coil, correct?
I just picked up an entire socket set, ratchets, screwdrivers, etc. because all my tools are back home, and I am about an hour drive away.
No knocking sound, the only sound it makes is like it is struggling to stay running, at 3-400RPMs. Honestly the best way I can put is this: When it's idling very low like that, and about to stall it sounds like it is running a very aggresive set of cams.
I know this may sound dumb, but instead of being very quiet out of the exhuast, it's choppy and not smooth at all. Just like when I put a set of cams in my Eagle Talon.
What size spark plug socket do I need? I have a 3" extension bar, will that be long enough? Do I need a swivel attachment? Anything else? To replace the plugs.
Anyway... I'm going to try unplugging the coils tomorrow. If that doesn't give me some definate clues as to what the problem is, I am going to have to bring it to some Average Joe repair shop, and most likely get completely raped.
Thanks for all the help and information 95-j30t I really appreciate it. I hope your luck turns around with the J30TT and after this transmission swap it's all smooth sailing for you!
Hey man do you have AIM or any messenger software I might be able to contact you on? Just figured I'd ask!
Re: (J30Guy612)
Now I am even worse off than before.
Fired the car up, and took it for a drive and was going to wait until it started stalling, to bring it my an auto shop, and the thing never started stalling.
Just drove for about 2 hours straight, highway, city, etc and no stalling.
Tried shutting the car off, starting, revving RPMS, etc.
I mean, I am happy that it's running, but worried about the next time this problem pops up...
Fired the car up, and took it for a drive and was going to wait until it started stalling, to bring it my an auto shop, and the thing never started stalling.
Just drove for about 2 hours straight, highway, city, etc and no stalling.
Tried shutting the car off, starting, revving RPMS, etc.
I mean, I am happy that it's running, but worried about the next time this problem pops up...
Re: (J30Guy612)
Did your car ever start having problems again? Mine was doing the exact same thing, then it stopped one day all of sudden. Now about 10 days go by and the problem comes back... I am going to test the coils today, but I thought I'd ask if you even had the problem come back, and if you found a solution first.
-
drape123
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 9:00 pm
- Car: J30 94, REAL CAI W/POPCHARGER, ECU-Reflash. (the DD) - 95 S14 KA-T Fully built gt35r@28psi when i ge
Re: (xrionx)
i'd bet its a spark issue. i had something similar happen to me on my j last year
1'st thing you wanna do is go to kragen/advanced auto and get a can of mafs cleaner. its like $5 and spray the crap out of your MAFS.
second thing is remove all coil packs, and check spark plugs. i had 2 spark plugs where the porcelin broke off and was misfiring big time. the plugs will tell a lot about what is going on in your motor.
if the 1'st 2 dont solve it, remove each injector connector and see if any of them make the motor sound like it already sounds. (not worse)
hope this helps.
1'st thing you wanna do is go to kragen/advanced auto and get a can of mafs cleaner. its like $5 and spray the crap out of your MAFS.
second thing is remove all coil packs, and check spark plugs. i had 2 spark plugs where the porcelin broke off and was misfiring big time. the plugs will tell a lot about what is going on in your motor.
if the 1'st 2 dont solve it, remove each injector connector and see if any of them make the motor sound like it already sounds. (not worse)
hope this helps.
xrionx wrote:Did your car ever start having problems again? Mine was doing the exact same thing, then it stopped one day all of sudden. Now about 10 days go by and the problem comes back... I am going to test the coils today, but I thought I'd ask if you even had the problem come back, and if you found a solution first.
Re: (drape123)
hey i know this is an old post but i'm just curious, when you took your car out of long term storage, before you put it in did you put fuel stabilizer into your tank? i have some of the symptons you described on motorcycles that I work on when the bikes have been sitting in the off season for a long time and the gas gets old and bad...we will drain the tanks, spray carb cleaner into the carbs or fuel injectors and refill with fresh gas, usually resolves the problem with no problems...
Re: (drape123)
What I did is changed the spark plugs, and the problem went away for a few days. When the problem came back I pulled each connector from each coil to hear if it affected the engine, when I pulled cylinder 5 there was no change, all the rest the engine idle went "down". I then swapped the coil from number 1 to number 5 and the problem stayed in the number 5 cylinder. Which leads me to believe it is probably a bad injector. Would you guys agree? Also i don't want to spend alot of money on this so I wanted to know if it's ok just to change the one injector. Thanks for any input.drape123 wrote:i'd bet its a spark issue. i had something similar happen to me on my j last year
1'st thing you wanna do is go to kragen/advanced auto and get a can of mafs cleaner. its like $5 and spray the crap out of your MAFS.
second thing is remove all coil packs, and check spark plugs. i had 2 spark plugs where the porcelin broke off and was misfiring big time. the plugs will tell a lot about what is going on in your motor.
if the 1'st 2 dont solve it, remove each injector connector and see if any of them make the motor sound like it already sounds. (not worse)
hope this helps.
By the way would BG 44K help with this? I put Lucas Fuel treatment in yesterday with a full tank of gas (always 93 octane) and the problem has gone away for now...