neutral start swithh-Where??

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
Twinpilot001
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:57 pm
Car: 1982 datsun 720 4 w 4

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1982 720 4 x 4 ----------Where is the Neutral start switch located at?? also- on the tranny & 4 x 4 xfer case - there are 2 switches-are those for only indicator lites when in gear or in 4 x 4 ?? This engine will not crank-did before 1 time & started fine after new rebuild. its an origional engine that was in the truck. Now =wont crank at all. electrics are fine, batt good & elect. fuel pump runs too. Will not crank & has a new starter also!!


ibjman
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue May 12, 2015 5:36 pm
Car: 1986 720 King Cab Z24
Location: Phoenix

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I have an 86 720 w/a Z24 carbureted 2wd king cab.
I jumped through a lot of hoops trying to find the reason that many times the starter would not operate when turning the key????
I replaced all the mickey Mouse wiring the PO had installed with the correct fusible links. Corrected all the batter connection both Pos & Neg.
A lot of posts have been noted on the forum about intermittent no starter operation.
I stumbled across my failure cause quite by accident today. after several no start attempts, I happened to push up on the key while it was in the crank position and it started!

Here is what I found: The actual contact plate for the ignition switch (the parts with all the wires coming from it) is attached to the end of the ignition switch in a shoddy manner. When the switch is assembled the contact plate is attached to the end of she rotating switch assembly by 3 simple little "crimps" where the body of the (pot metal) switch is "staked" in three places over the edge of the black plastic contact plate at the bottom of the switch.
Over time after 100's of start cycles the 3 flimsy little crimps begin to fail and the ignition switch contact plate becomes "loose" on the end of the switch assembly.
I found it necessary to remove the complete lock & switch assembly from the steering column in order to repair.

For those of you who've never taken this off, once you remove the outer plastic top & bottom covers, you'll find that 2 of the 4 screws holding the assy on the column are "theft deterrent" screws with no slots in them to remove them.
These 2 (of the 4 screws) are usually not very tight. I use a very sharp center punch and a small hammer. Put the point of the punch on the head of the screw out NEAR the edge and point the punch so that it impacts the screw head in the direction to loosen. A couple of light raps and the screw will spin loose and can the be removed with a few more light taps or with a sharp pick in the center punch mark.
Once the switch lock assy is off the column, a single small Phillips screw holds the ign. switch to the bottom of the lock assy.
I removed the switch and set it on a flat surface. A couple of light taps on the pot metal crimps tightened the bottom contact plate like new to the end of the switch.
Starts like new every try.
I only wish I had found this before I spent 3 hours on my knees under the front fender changing the starter!

If you would rather spend $40 on a new switch, here it is at AutoZone!

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-start ... 18908_0_0/

Regards, Ibjman

Twinpilot001
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:57 pm
Car: 1982 datsun 720 4 w 4

Post

Great! same as mine was - just wear - now i will add = my negative cable from battery ( although good) i did have installed on the bracket that bolts to the front pass side of the block. For some reason - that would bot allow the ground circuit to be completed!!?? I moved the cable to the actual engine block & all was good!


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