Need to replace suspension parts...help needed

[NightRiderQ45]

Well, my baby turned 200k this past weekend during a trip to Dallas and she went out with a bang! After driving from Tulsa to Dallas without any problems, I check into my hotel and my car wouldn't start. Oh I was pissed. I knew it wasn't my alternator, I replaced that in 4/05 plus it was pushing 13.9V without load, 13.85 with load so that wasn't the problem. After having multiple people who doesn't know anything about voltages advise me to take my positive off while the car was running (heck no! maybe old cars, but not mine since I was afraid that computer problems could happen) I caught a ride to the local Wally World to purchase me a new battery. Man, batteries have gone up since my last purchase! I paid $85 w/tax! What a way to start off the weekend...

Back to the topic at hand. I took my car to get an alignment before I left and I ran into worn suspension parts that needs to be replaced. I went into the shop and saw what needed to be replaced. I need a new ball joint ($394 lower-front, left-hate that i have to purchase the whole darn control arm), tie rod ends($73 left-outer), and strut rod assy both front bushings (2-$184). Those are the prices after he called the dealer. Now this is where I need your help because I think the part guy is trying to get over on me.

I can clearly see that the tie rod and ball joint needs to be replaced. I guess that explains why my tires were worn in the inside after alignment before. What I need to know is do I have to replace the whole strut rod assy with the bushings or can I just replace the bushings itself?? The guy told me that "he doesn't have the machine and he doesn't know of anyone else that has the machine to compress the bushings out of the old assy to install the new bushings). I think that's bs! If that was the case, why do they sell the bushings seperately. He said that I have to purchase the whole assembly with the bushings already installed. That doesn't make any sense to me. I went by another place and they told me that he wasn't telling the truth and they have machines that can install just the bushings. The bushings itself is much cheaper and purchasing the full strut rod assy.

What do you guys think? Can I install just the bushings or do I have to purchase the whole assy? I have to go to IOS to look at their prices now. Thanks.

[maxnix]

Call IoS. All you need for the tension rod is the bushing.

How are strut inserts? Rear shocks? Good time to replace front gaiters, strut mounts (if required, which is likely) and bearings if not replaced last time.

Get steering rack bushing also if not replaced in last 40K.

[NightRiderQ45]

Thanks for clearing that up for me; especially since you own a FGY33. I knew that guy was trying to get over on me. Basically he was going to purchase just the bushing for the strut rod and then charge me for the whole assy. Everything is making soooo much sense now! He stated that I couldn't bring in my own part even after I told him that I can get oem parts @ a discount. He didn't want me to bring in my own part because he wanted to overcharge for something that I didn't need.

I haven't replaced the strut insert but I've replaced both strut mounts. Steering rack bushing??? Pulling up IOS right now...

[maxnix]

Here's the deal: you bring parts, you and the supplier warrants them; he supplies the parts, he warrants them (backed by the supplier).

Most shops are budgeted around a markup on parts they buy at a discount to over the counter retail. Usually a different labor rate will apply for owner provided parts.
Modified by maxnix at 9:03 PM 5/27/2009

[grip1968]

SPELL CHECK PLEASE!!!!!!

[NightRiderQ45]

I've attached a pic so people could see what I'm talking about. Ok, the yellow items are what I have questions about. The tension rod bushing is #5. I can clearly see that I didn't need to purchase the whole assy with the bushing in it. IOS has it for $34 so I'm about to purchase two of them.

Is the item in yellow on #2 the ball joint? The description of the part is tranverse link. Is that another term for lower control arm? The guy said that the whole lower control arm had to be replaced and the ball joint is attached to it. When I was under the car this look like the part he pointed out to me. I have an issue with toe in, also the top part of my tire is leaning inside the wheel well too. I have expensive tires on my car now so I want to fix this asap!

[maxnix]

You need the LCA, but it may not cure excessive negative camber, especially if it has lowering springs.

The arrow on the tension rod bushings point forward.

[NightRiderQ45]

You need the LCA, but it may not cure excessive negative camber, especially if it has lowering springs.

The arrow on the tension rod bushings point forward.

Thanks! I will purchase that too. I have no lowering springs. After I replace the bushings, LCA with ball joint attached, and tie rods...it should cure my problem. Heck, it will be much better than it is now.