Hello,

New to the forum, but I have tried googling these things. I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I sent it off for repair because the computer was "burned" (it was black). (I am asking my dad what had been done so these are his words). So we sent it off for repair had it repaired and coded and it was sent back. So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly.

Called the repairer for what he did on the computer and we said to change the motherboard and he programmed it. Same issue.

I had thought the key would be the problem so i called a locksmith who programmed the key, and I asked him to program the computer since he said he could. He did that and same issue with rpm, I told him about it and he got mad and deleted everything on the computer (I assume since it won't start now.) I have the computer and it looks like Module Repair Pro fixed it. Module Repair Pro INC

Thinking it needs reprograming now. Any clue?

Also I may add that the remote works in opening the door locks. Does the key still need initializing? I can do that know if it does. The key does crank the vehicle if that makes a difference.

I disconnected the connector that goes to the valve to do the tests shown in this video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuRKzsqp-g
I am getting the 12 volts from the battery in the middle column, but for resistance I am getting only 20 in the testings as the video has 30. Maybe different model?


I noticed when looking at the plug it was burned/melted.
Here's some pics. Could this be the issue?





Gonna take a stroll at a pull-yard and make a big wish that I find something for that connector.

Yes, I would start with the obvious - Clearly you've got wires to the IAC that have melted- better look at the wiring schematic and determine which ones and what connections they make.

So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly.

IACV fried the computer. It will fry the rebuilt computer if you use it again, you have to buy a new OEM model. Don't forget to perform the idle relearn after you plug in the ECU.

rgk wrote:

So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly.

IACV fried the computer. It will fry the rebuilt computer if you use it again, you have to buy a new OEM model. Don't forget to perform the idle relearn after you plug in the ECU.

I don't think the new computer even has programming. I have a new IACV in place. Its shiny new still and expensive...... Just gotta replace that connector first to see if that was preventing the IACV from working right?

Went to a junkyard this morning, and pulled myself a connector from another nissan, same exact wire colorings on both mine the donor. Will do that today and get the ECU programmed.

I changed up the connector plug, so I started doing the pedal and throttle body relearning. Its not starting up, I think the computer needs programming. Dealer wants $1k+. Anyone ideas?

I scanned the car, and am getting 3 codes
P1610-NATS Malfunction
P1615-NATS Malfunction
P1131-Swirl Control Solenoid Valve.

????
I just tried to perform a P1610 Nissan Lock Mode Escape. (turn on ignition for 5 secs and turn off, repeat 3 times total.

I noticed whenever I have the Key to ON the security light is on solid.

I called a locksmith, he came in. I told him that I changed the ECM. He initialized the immobilizer and the car started up soooo smoothly with a purr. The code for a swirl solenoid is coming up, but I read that the code needs to be erased for it to turn the CEL off.

I also asked him if he could do the relearning of the TB and idle stuff. He did that. Also he scanned a Honda Element for me and was insisting on the same price as on the phone for $125. If anyone needs a recommendation in MD, I say call Victory Auto Lock.

I am having a jerking issue now. When I put my foot on the gas a little bit it jerks. Could be because I didnt reset the CEL?
I just reset the CEL. Will test drive again. Any thoughts ?

On the drive status (lights for if I am in 4WD 2WD RWD). It happens on all the drives. I think I may flush the transmission to see if that helps.

Ordered a swirl valve from the dealer for about 100 few bucks.

Will get it today.

I just replaced the swirl valve. Cleared the code and I started the engine. I pressed the gas and at about 1.5k-2k rpm the engine starts jumping up and down. If I press the gas harder then it just goes normal and goes to 3k+ rpm like it should.

I did disconnect couple of connectors to change the swirl valve.
All these 4-5 connectors.


Did I screw up by unplugging those connectors?

I did try doing the relearn from this link:
how-to-ecu-relearning-procedures-t445702.html

So I fugged up. Without realizing it I had placed the swirl valve in the wrong way The silver plug should be facing the driver fender. I had it that the silver plug goes into the black box

Its is still doing the weird jumping jack when I press the gas pedal to 1.5k-2k

Well I am now looking at the wires beneath the steering wheel as there is some shady wiring work.

Anyone know what that black box is and it if has anything to do with the issue I am having.
What is that black box?

I plugged that connector back into that black box, now I hear clicking noise from that box, and the drive status (the light on the instrument cluster that shows if its in AWD 2WD) thing blinks every time the box is blinking.

So After trying to do the relearns wrong, I looked at the preconditions needed to be good to relearn. Appearantly RPM should be 800, Im getting 850.

So I guess this will be a solo mission for me, I googled how to change the idle rpm, and came up with rotating the TPS in order to lower or increase idle rpm. I managed to lower the car to 750 RPM, but I am waiting for the car to cool down to confirm. Will probably be tomorrow as its not cooled down yet. I did lean a house fan up against the hood to speed up the process but I guess its gonna take longer.

Well you are in for a good ride guys,

I just discovered total of 3 black boxes that SHOULD NOT be there.
Sounds like the last owner pissed off a bank or someone.

Shadey wiring job showed me where to look. images/icons/smile/mrgreen.gif. guess being shady sometimes pays off

What a crime scene these wires are, will post pictures soon, but omg the amount of plastic shed is real.

Doing some work now to neat things up.


This crap here:

I am still having the same issue with the rpm. I hate how the relearning don't give a chirp sound or blink to tell if it worked or not.

I lowered my rpm by turning the tps. MY Snap-on scanner is telling me there is a screw on the IACV valve. I do not see a screw on it. Someone help me with this.

I've done the relearns probably 20 times now. But the only one I cant get done is the IACV one. When it says in the step to hold the gas pedal for 20 seconds till the SES light comes and stays on?
But the thing is I dont have any lights on at the moment. cluster is clear of lights.
It comes on and it just doesnt stop flashing. It probably stays on for 2 seconds and flashes and 2 seconds over and over again. Is that what it means?

I guess the issue is with the TPS or IACV that I just got. Not getting any SES light or any codes. :/ :/ If I follow this

Throttle Position Sensor NAEC0419 Throttle valve conditions Voltage (at normal operating temperature, engine off, ignition switch ON, throttle opener disengaged)
Completely closed (a) 0.15 - 0.85V
Partially open Between (a) and (B)
Completely open (B) 3.5 - 4.7V

I measure this by putting a wire into the TPS brow connector middle port.

Could this be because the ECM is the wrong part number than what it should be?
I have a 23714 4W001 when it should be either 23710 5W511 OR 23710 6W100
based on the parts link Nissan USA eStore

So I was able to get my friends help on this issue, will post any updates.

Friend told me a bad O2 Sensor or CatConverter could be the problem. Is this possibe when CEL isn't on?

I just started to get back to this PF after about a week of working on my Element.

I just started the engine and I am getting the P1165 SWL_CON_VC_SW/CIRC.

I just changed that part. Maybe I have it in backwards?







Or maybe the hoses are in the wrong place.

I just looked up what this code is and appearantly it is the vacuum part on the side driver fender.

I just erased the code and it hasnt come back, it may have been because I was spraying brake cleaner around rubber vacuum hoses.

Thanks for the detailed updates. Too bad nobody was able to help you. Anyway, what was your end result? I have an 07 Xterra Off Road and looks like I need a new ECM so am doing research before acquiring one.

Not that it matters, but looks like all those extra modules underneath the steering column were for an aftermarket alarm system.

Generally speaking, connectors and parts should only be able to be installed one way (some exceptions).

You can use a paperclip to back probe connectors to take readings (instead of twisting wires and wrapping around the connector).

Idle air relearn light will be on for about 7 seconds, start flashing for 9 seconds, then go solid. At this point, the gas pedal should be released and within 3 seconds the car should be started. (This is the procedure for my 2007 Xterra.) If this isn't happening, it could point to an issue with the ECM.