Need Suspension Help Search Weilded Nada really stuck here
Need Suspension Help Search Weilded Nada really stuck here
Ok, I hate fender gap. my car the catalyic converter is literally like 3 inches off the ground right now. I want to keep the size its at right now but I dont want camber problems on the wheels causing them to wear out on the inner side. tires with 100% tred n the outside and -50% tread on the inside in 3 weeks sucks. i know cause it happend and this is why I have to replace it.. can sombody help me find a suspension kti somwhere over 500 dollars or under.. just somnwhere near 500$.. that will keep my car that low? because it looks really nice that low and I want to get help. and are AGX's adjustable by ride height? liek can you adjust how low your car sits to the ground when stopped with the agx's and lets say sportline springs? and will a set of 200$ adjustable coilover springs fit well with a AGX? or will I need to perform some weilding?
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Hijacker
- Posts: 14373
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
your post is hard to decipher...
but anyways. AGX's are not ride height adjustable. The only way to change height is with lowering springs. I'd be hesitant to start adding coilover springs on because it does require some cutting and welding. I'd rather spend the extra change and get a real set of coil overs.
Camber change is the result of the suspension geometry being altered. When you lower your car, the camber goes negative. The only way to fix the problem is camber correction. Adjustable plates are the best way to go, with eccentric bolts being a distant option. I prefer plates because they don't take a critical bolt (the knuckle mount bolt) and make it thinner (more succeptible to breaking)
but anyways. AGX's are not ride height adjustable. The only way to change height is with lowering springs. I'd be hesitant to start adding coilover springs on because it does require some cutting and welding. I'd rather spend the extra change and get a real set of coil overs.
Camber change is the result of the suspension geometry being altered. When you lower your car, the camber goes negative. The only way to fix the problem is camber correction. Adjustable plates are the best way to go, with eccentric bolts being a distant option. I prefer plates because they don't take a critical bolt (the knuckle mount bolt) and make it thinner (more succeptible to breaking)
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veilside180sx
- Posts: 674
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 7:15 am
i just did everything that's required and it cost me 2 grand to do it right.
The problem is everything you do offsets something else.
For instance you lower the back, so you get RUCA's, then your toe is way off, so you get Toe Bars, but then you putting a lot of pressure on the stock non adjustable Traction bar, which isn't something i'd want to do so you replace that. Pretty soon your pennies are vanishing quickly. I would hold off until you can do it all right and do it once. I know it doesn't help for an immediate fix, but at least first and foremost it'll be safe...and done right.
The problem is everything you do offsets something else.
For instance you lower the back, so you get RUCA's, then your toe is way off, so you get Toe Bars, but then you putting a lot of pressure on the stock non adjustable Traction bar, which isn't something i'd want to do so you replace that. Pretty soon your pennies are vanishing quickly. I would hold off until you can do it all right and do it once. I know it doesn't help for an immediate fix, but at least first and foremost it'll be safe...and done right.