Need specific info on stereo wiring 2003 pathy

[joshalone]

I have completely replaced the Bose system from my 2003 Pathy. The previous owner of my Pathy CUT THE WIRING HARNESS CONNECTORS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE DASH. It made for a very difficult install as I had to dig through many many websites and a slew of disinformation on the wiring color diagrams.

I replaced the door speakers (both front and back) with Rockford Fosgate Prime Series 6.5inch two way speakers. I have a 1000watt Amp in the cargo area that I ran wiring to and from the stereo head unit center dash location. Including a pair of rca wires to send the audio signal to the amp from the stereo. I ran all this wires under and inside of the center console to the very back of the center console. I then removed part of the interior carpeting that is under the center console and covers the drive shaft hump in the middle of the back seat flooring area. I ran the wires across the floor, under the front of the rear seat to the rear of the fold down seats with the wires reemerging into the center of the cargo area where I connected them to the amp. I replaced the carpet had removed to cover the wires. I ran all new power line from the battery positive terminal around the edge of the engine bay to a 1/2 inch hole I used a step-bit and drilled through the sheet metal behind the glove compartment (which I had removed to facilitate the process of installing direct power). I picked up an appropriate sized rubber grommet ring from Ace hardware that fit the half inch hole I drilled in the sheet metal and snugly fit the 0 gauge wire I used for the power line. The power line is run to the back of the dash console and follows along with the speaker and stereo wires I previously described. It is split with a Tap Block that creates two 4awg wires that I installed fuses on each one and completed the connection to the two amps in the cargo area. I have a pair of 12inch Pioneer Champion Series sub-woofers in a phase 2 vented box in the cargo area that the second amp (1100 watt) powers. For a ground wire solution I used a tap-and-die tool kit to create a hole in the deck of the cargo area that is the upper part of the wheel well of the passenger side back tire area. I had a very heavy bolt which resembles a railroad spike on top. It runs down with a smooth shaft 2inches in diameter for 4inches and then steps down to a 3/4inch diameter threaded shaft that is an inch and a half in length. After using the tap-and-die kit to open a threaded hole through the metal I attached a 4awg wire that I previously soldered a 3/4 inch copper washer onto onto the railroad spike bolt and threaded the bolt into the hole. The other end of that wire I connected to a tap splitter and ran 8awg to each of the two amps. I further secured the bolt by attaching a locking nut to the threaded shaft that was accessible by reaching up above the wheel. I tightened it down properly and have ZERO issues with ground failure. I had to run the remote line with the speaker wires and the power as well.

I had the system up and running and functional with a double din receiver from Amazon that only cost me $43. Touch screen unit with back up camera option. TBH, I didn't bother ever trying to install the back up camera stuff.

I ended up having to replace the Amazon Double Din stereo as a result of trial and error installation wiring mistakes I made in the center dash wiring. I cussed out the previous owner loudly for many hours as I muddled through the process of getting the exposed vehicle wiring connected to the stereo connector. The mistake I made was not having a ground wire connected to the receiver. The receiver went up in a puff of smoke and an acrid smell of burnt electronics and burnt PCB. Man, that was a smell I could have really done without as I was driving 70 mph on the freeway when the stereo decided to spontaneously send smoke signals up from the dash like some kind of Boy Scout with a blanket, a book of matches and some dry twigs.

I managed to get the receiver which was not mounted/screwed into place yet disconnected from the vehicle wiring with one hand as I dodged traffic and tried to get to a safe place where I could access my fire extinguisher should things get out off control.

Still, I was not deterred. I ordered another exact same unit from Amazon so that the stereo connectors I had already wired into the wires of the truck would fit and not require changing. Except the obvious addition of a ground wire to the stereo connectors. I wired that with solder directly to metal of the truck body that I used a flapdisk Dremel bit to expose ample raw metal in the center dash console area where the empty space is behind the stereo. I soldered a 8 awg wire to the exposed metal and then I used two sticks of hot glue to properly seal, protect, and isolate the ground connection. I coupled the 8awg wire to a 18 awg wire with solder and heat shrink tubing and connected that to the stereo connector array.

The new receiver unit arrived and I got a taste of success. It was mind-blowing, eargasim causing, pristine sound quality I had installed. There are a lot of details of the build that I have omitted like the soundmat material I installed in the doors and several other enhanced install steps intended to create a audio experience of the highest caliber I could possibly get without having to fabricate custom fiberglass door panel replacements to allow more speakers in the door and an amp in each door. If anyone is interested HMU and I will share what I have learned from experience and what I am aware is out there that others have done in regards to custom stereo installations.

After two weeks of heavenly driving pleasure the second Amazon receiver went on the Fritz and stopped working altogether. So, I pulled the hardware out and decided to find a different solution then $43 every two weeks for a new unit.
I have decided on a solution that involves using an older Android tablet as a receiver unit. There are several videos on YouTube detailing this install process. Most are specific to the kind of amp they are using. But, I figure that my amp is already installed and I don't want to shell out any more money for a different amp when my current amp is completely functional.

My question is the wiring color of the "Remote" line. Or, as it is also known the 5v line. Can someone clarify for me which wire is the remote line in the dash before it gets to the factory wiring adapter that went to the back of the Bose receiver?
And if that remote line is ran to a split in the wiring (sending it two ways) and one of the splits is not connected to anything does the remote line still work or is the circuit open?

Any help on this issue will be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thank you in advance to my fellow forum members who help me to solve this nightmare.

[04pathse]

What do you need the 5 volt power for? to run the android tablet?

[joshalone]

No. I need the remote line to get the amps to turn on. They require positive power, negative ground and remote (5v) connections. I have audio input connections via a 1/4 inch jack to rca connectors.

[04pathse]

you can get a 12 volt to 5 volt converter and hook it up to any source that provides power with the ignition on

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Voltag ... 3941145334

[joshalone]

Okay. If I were to do that which wire (color coding) in the center dash wiring harness for the stereo is a correct one to use? I understand that there maybe multiple options. I just need any one working option.
Also, my second question was about the circuit and if having a spliced wire split into town connections with only one connected leaves the circuit open and therefore not fuctional.