need some tips from the z32 pro's

[wild_maxx]

Here's the deal... I'm considering selling my ka-t 240sx and buying a 1990 300zx non-turbo. Has 140k miles on it. New oem clutch replaced 10k miles ago, new tires. Body is in great condition. Chrome covered stock wheels. 5speed transmission.

Problem is... the car is 400 miles away. My buddy found it and told me about it. He took a few pics and it looks amazing. He test drove it, the car had'nt been driven for about 3 months. He said if sounded like a lifter ticking when he started it up but went away after 10 minutes. Also notice the starter was sticking on when he cranked the engine over. Did that 3 times then quit. Said it drove smooth and no weird noises.

I would like some input on this car if you can provide. What are some typical things to inspect before purchasing one. Is it rare to see the VG motor go past 200k miles? I don't know the maint. record.. but it has been an older couple that owned is since new. If you could provide any help that would be great. Thanks alot guys/gals.

-shawn

[wild_maxx]

one more

[WidebodyZ]

Lifter tick is nothing unusual especially at start-up and since it hadn't been run for a while. When properly maintained they can go a long ways. And also seeing as that it's stock it's most likely not been abused. I do fear it's been in a front end collision though. The fender isn't jiving with the drivers side door OR the front bumper...and the lower section of the front bumper isn't supposed to be black. I've seen some cars that didn't even have that part before, but I can't tell you why...haha, they all came with it from the factory. You also failed to mention the price of the car?

[wild_maxx]

Hey thanx for the great info. The owner wants 6k obo.. and its been sitting outside their house for about 3 months. Another thing I found out... the a/c compressor seized up so that needs to be replaced. Possiby including the dryer and other a/c parts... idk. Also, the starter clicked a few times before it engaged. I figure it was prob stuck from sitting for so long. Well it started up and the starter then stuck open. Shut it off the tried it again.. and it was fine after that. It may need a new starter... or may have just needed a few kicks to break free any rust in there.

Question: My buddy drove it around yesterday, He said as he was accel. in gear the shifter would move backward about 3/4 of an inch when he would start off... then when he let off the gas the shifter went foward about the same amout. said it was pretty sloppy and loose. I figure it may be the transmission mount... maybe its shot and allowing alot of play. any ideas?

I figured I would lowball them and start at like 3.5k and work from there. I'll include the info you made about the front end and how its supposed to be painted, As well as the starter, rock chips, lifters, and every other little thing I can find. Thanks again -Shawn

Modified by wild_maxx at 6:19 PM 10/2/2006
Modified by wild_maxx at 6:27 PM 10/2/2006

[WidebodyZ]

That's the shifter bushings. Those need replaced. And with the problems it has, it's no where worth 6K. I would only pay that much if it was a twin turbo. The AC not working is probably more than just the compressor. I'm sure there's a laundry list of problems just waiting to arise too.

[wild_maxx]

ok, I am able to take on a project (fully built my own ka-t) What do you think its worth? Since your the only person in here.

[nscredondo]

Why not just buy a twin turbo. Going by what you said the car has alot of problems. Just save yourself the trouble and buy a twin turbo with the same amount of mileage. You will be much happier with it than with the N/A. Also the early 90's model N/A had problems with the rotors being only 26mm as opposed to the fixed 30mm that is in the twin turbo model and after they fixed it during 1990.

[wild_maxx]

The TT is kinda limited around here. Plus if I do find one... it will be way over priced and i'm kinda scared the insurance will kill me. I have a set of 26mm z32 calipers that I just rebuilt so if I do have a problem with the stocker I have backup's.

Sure there are a few problems.. but I see them as a way of talking her down on the price. I work at an autoshop where I have 3 very experienced tech's for help and all the tools I need to do any repairs. I consider myself pretty smart when it comes to motors/cars. I don't have experience with the VG but i have to start some where.

Are there any major electrical probs I should be aware of? Any commin sensors that fail alot?

Like I have said.. new car to me so I really appreciate you info guys.

[nscredondo]

Well hey if you got all that I say go ahead. It seems like a fun project car that you could get for like 3.5. Whenever the engine dies on you just buy a twin turbo and swap it and let the insurance company think you have a N/A. O and BTW My N/A 300Z is at 157K on the clock and is still running strong with no problems. I have never ran anything except premium in the car so that helps also because it is preferred by Nissan for you to run premium.

[wild_maxx]

haha yeah that 10:1 comp is pretty crazy on low octane fuel. I have been paying for premuim fuel on the 240.. so thats not new for me.

Now that you 2 have pointed out some more flaws... i think i'll start out at 2.5k with the bluebook value printed out. See how much money i can save.

Thanks again-Shawn

[idriveaTTz32]

yeah its no where near worth 6k, an NA unless absolutely flawless has no right to demand over kbb, most tt's do not deserve it either...you're taking a gamble here and I would invest more time looking it over thoroughly but i guess thats hard for you to do since its 400miles away...best thing with these cars is to hold out until you come across one that hits all the right buttons!

[idriveaTTz32]

as for electronics...the ptu (power transistor unit) had a recall update and it was usually accompanied by a metallic sticker somewhere inthe engine bay to verify the change, the early 90-94 injectors are prone to failure on tt's, not positive about the NA's though. the 5 and 6 cylinders can suffer from engine coolant starvation due to casting flashing in the coolant paths of the block...if you're friend can get an ohm meter and test the injectors that will tell you if they are good or not.

[wild_maxx]

awesome info!

I am heading home (I'm away at college) in 3 weeks to look at it. Are the injectors low or high impedence? What ohm's should I be looking for? I am bringing a combustion gas tester to make sure there's not a blow HG. I will also do a compression test while i'm there. What is good compression on these motors?

If it was in a front end collision and the repairs were done half assed... would I be able to re-align the fenders? Or should I just take it to a body shop and have it inspected? I do some of the inspecting my self (bent radiator support, wheel wells, bumper) what else should I check out?

Is there a website out there that will tell me all the specs of the motor? (comp, cam lift, valve size, cyl. bore. ect...) I have been searching over nico and googled it a few times... but mostly found JDM motors for sale....

[wild_maxx]

can anyone answer any of my above questions? I have been searching around the net alot lately... but still have a few questions from ya.

Thanks -Shawn

[WidebodyZ]

I'd tell you if I had time for a lengthy response..but go here..use search:http://www.twinturbo.net

[gpelite]

Don't give up that 240 ka-t for an NA, you'll be disappointed. 6k, too much period. There are a ton of other Z guys with less miles on NAs trying to get rid of them.

TT and then you will have something to fell really proud about, downgrading isn't fun

[wild_maxx]

haha i'm NOT paying 6k for it. The owner doesn't really know the value of the car so she just put a price on it that should would like to get.

I will offer her 3k for it... if she say's no... then i'll begin the search for another one. I am leaning toward the NA because... TT's are expensive to maintain, more to insure and I am sure i'll be very tempted to upgrade things. I don't want to say the TT is less reliable, but I *think* the NA would be a bit more reliable.

I know I shouldn't give up the 240... but its time for something nicer and more comfortable for a DD.

If you guys are curious about the 240sx... heres some pics

http://www.putfile.com/sk8142/images/30112