Need some real brains to pick at this

[Charlie240sxt]

Ok i sorry for all the treads here lately but i am about to start sendin money and the block and head in on this project goin. But frist i wanted to let you guys with real brains pick at my setup and tell me what all i got worng or something in that price range that will work better. With that in mind only aimming for 380whp and every day driveable if you see something i dont really need or something that will just as good for this tell me PLEASE. oh yea and the most boost ever ran will be 20psi, 10psi daly driven

start with nsport stage one with diff BOV and tial(35mm) wastegate

Greddy Profec B Spec - II Boost ControllerHKS Turbo Timer Type-0Ka block, all cleaned up and honedcrank,MicropolishedRoss Forged Pistons 8.5:1 compressionRoss Piston Rings and Wrist PinsPauter Forged RodsARP Head and Main BoltsAfter block is together Balanced&Blueprinted660CC Injectors300ZX MAF sensorJWT ECU UpgradeJWT turbo cams unshure about size (not huge or anything just streetable)

Things i dont know about??: Daul Valve Springs and Titanium retainers

Ok start picking and flameing just not to bad?!?!? LOL

Ok i have Deleted the stuff you guys say to do away with

[Nathan]

That sounds pretty good, should be good for MORE than 380hp I think. How is that shaving weight off the crank done? Knife edging (I dont like it based on a few things I've read) or bullnosing? You dont need a rrfpr either with the JWT ecu, but I THINK you can unhook the vacuum line and have it work like normal.

[Charlie240sxt]

Thanx natan frist time i ever herd anyone on here tell me i got something right .lol Not sure on how thay do it just know my step dad's buddy work at this place wher thay do it.

[andrave]

yeah I was gonna say, no need for rrfpr with jwt or other management, and I'd say stick with the stock headgasket since I've heard it will hold a lot of boost.sounds like a hell of a motor you are building.

[Charlie240sxt]

Yea i just hope it will last like 40-60k

[fiznat]

yeah lol to reiterate-- I dont think you'll need to increase the fuel pressure with such big injectors, nevermind the JWT.

[SingleCamSam]

I think there are several ways you can save some cash my firend.

1. Lose the profec B. Get a Joe P MBC for $352.Screw the turbo timer, be your own.3.Lose the fuel pressure regulator4.Use an OEM replacement head gasket as a fuse.5.Port and Polish will show only minimal gains even at that power level.6.Get cheaper 72-lb top-feed injectors.7.Don't worry about titanium springs/retainers etc. cuz you won't need them8.Oversize valves....don't need em.9.Intake manifold....don't need it.10.Crank....just balance it, no need to knife edge.

All in all you've just saved over 2.5 grand.

[fiznat]

yeah, agreed. you're kinda goin overkill with some of those parts. call up a machine shop (like flatlander racing), and ask them what they think you'll need. I've found that they'll be pretty honest, and the info is a lot more reliable than just what youve read in some magazine or heard on the net.

[Charlie240sxt]

Thanx guys for all the help but the turbo timer and boost con. stays but keep Picking at all means Thanx By the way

[Nathan]

Singlecamsam, I agree those things aren't NEEDED...but if he has the cash and wants to spend it that way, more power to him! In a perfect world I would have oversized valves, ported and polished head, titanium springs/retainers. It's building the engine to it's fullest which I wish I had the $$ to do. However, for a daily driver you want to have around for the better part of 100,000 miles it probably IS overkill for only 380hp, it's cool though! You can probably save about 1-200 dollars (depending on the price of the 660's) by going with a top feed rail and some 72# hr. injectors. Quite soon I should be able to tell ya'll if the Delphi 75# hr. injectors that http://www.racetronix.com sells are identical to the MSD 72# hr's, if they are it's a bit cheaper alternative. They sure do look like it to me!

[MikeMurphy]

I have heard some not-so-good things about the profec B spec II. First edition apparently worked far better. You may want to consonsider especially for the high boost situation which in all accounts that I have heard of, failed. I wouldnt suggest an MBC as stated above, but just something else.

I dont think you need an FPR, but I could be wrong.

What are you doing with cooling?

What are your exhaust plans?

[Charlie240sxt]

I will be getting a 2 core alm. rad. with 2 12inch elc. fans and 3inch cat with N1 Duels

[Charlie240sxt]

:I think i will go with the Metal head gasget just to be on the safe side also

And what boost controler is good cuz i need a good Elc. boost con. to ajs. boost from time to time with out poppin hood

[andrave]

I think the idea behind the factory head gasket is that if something goes wrong it blows the headgasket, whereas with metal headgasket it does things like damage moving parts.I think...

[Charlie240sxt]

Ohhh i see that would be great

[C-Kwik]

Ditch the Dual valve springs and titanium retainers. Unless you are going to rev much higher and going with a high lift cam, you won't need a stiffer valve spring. In fact a stiffer spring will add more friction and yield no benefits. Titanium retainers will yield very little if any gains. The retainers are rather small as is and being a shim-on-bucket direct actuated valve, the valvetrain is already light. And JWT doesn't make a turbo specific cam for the DOHC KA as far as I know and I'm not sure how well the NA cam will work.

As far as a headgasket, if you go metal, you need to make sure the surfaces are perfectly flat. They are not as soft as the OEM gasket and will not seal as well if there are imperfections. The OEM gasket will hold boost just fine.

[WDRacing]

Like C-kwik said, ditch the valvetrain. Port and polish everything, yes it does yield gains. In fact, ship your head, intake, exhaust mani and turbo compressor to Extrude Hone. They are more expensive, but they're the best. With the money you just saved on the valvetrain you can afford the best port job on the market, pretty good deal if ya ask me.

I'll have a set of custom turbo cams available shortly after I get back in December. They should be around $500 with a core charge of $100. Unless you ship me a set of used cams, then of course no core charge. They will be more agressive then any cam available, but not to the point where you need more rpm to take advantage. I won't be selling them till I get them dyno'd in my car first. So I have real results. Best of luck and happy boosting...

WD

[Charlie240sxt]

Thanx for your help guys Hopefully i get to start this in the next 6 months along with a new daliy driver and by all means keep the help coming it really helps

[klattr1]

I think the idea behind the factory head gasket is that if something goes wrong it blows the headgasket, whereas with metal headgasket it does things like damage moving parts.I think...

I detonated on my ka-t about a month ago and now the pistons are trash. I used a Cometic headgasket in this setup and found out afterwards that the headgasket was flawless but the pistons are trash. Oh well. Stock headgasket for me this time. The detonation part was my fault though. It prolly was extreme too!

[NateDogg]

I wouldn't bother with the extrude honing because you want to drive this car *daily*. Porting anything on the head or intake will reduce low rpm torque and with the 8.5 cr you will want to maintain as much low end as possible.

If I were you I would stay away from porting anything and concentrate on tuning. You can spend quite a bit getting things 'fine tuned' to get better efficiency, unless you take the car directly to JWT it ain't gonna be perfect for your car.

I see you aren't planning on upgrading the ignition. I feel this is a NECESSITY over 300rwhp. Magnecore plug wires, iridium plugs at ~.03" and your choice of MSD ignition or HKS ignition.

Otherwise I hope you have some good tires, suspension and brakes to slow this mother down!!

Good luck,Nate

[NateDogg]

Oh BTW, you might want to look into some JWT cams. I'm sure they will have something for your application. The key there is high lift and lower duration than a normally aspirated cam in order to reduce the amount of 'overlap' caused when the intake and exhaust valves are open the same time.

[huguetpj]

I wouldn't bother with the extrude honing because you want to drive this car *daily*. Porting anything on the head or intake will reduce low rpm torque and with the 8.5 cr you will want to maintain as much low end as possible.

I had my head ported and changed to 8.5CR pistons and I barely noticed any change on low rpm torque, but hey that could be me and the fact that I hadn't drive my car in 5 months.

Anyway, porting the head will help you up top, I know it did me. No idea what you people mean by extrude honing so I won't comment on that. But the KA has enough torque down low that loising a bit of it won't affect daily driveability.

[WDRacing]

I wouldn't bother with the extrude honing because you want to drive this car *daily*. Porting anything on the head or intake will reduce low rpm torque and with the 8.5 cr you will want to maintain as much low end as possible.

If I were you I would stay away from porting anything and concentrate on tuning. You can spend quite a bit getting things 'fine tuned' to get better efficiency, unless you take the car directly to JWT it ain't gonna be perfect for your car.

I see you aren't planning on upgrading the ignition. I feel this is a NECESSITY over 300rwhp. Magnecore plug wires, iridium plugs at ~.03" and your choice of MSD ignition or HKS ignition.

Otherwise I hope you have some good tires, suspension and brakes to slow this mother down!!

Good luck,Nate

If you don't enlarge the intake chambers to much, then you don't hurt the intake air velocity. The KA's long tube intake runner's are more then enough to make up for a decent size port job. The key is to stay around 85% of the valve size. Once you go over that you lose velocity, and unless your using a really large turbine you lose serious efficiency.

All heads whether in NA form or forced induction will benefit from a good port and polish. Especially the forced induction. The casting defects along are enough to warrant a good once over.

As far as cams go, you don't want to lower the duration at all on the KA24. In fact the cams I just had designed are keeping the stock lift and increasing the duration, quite a bit I might add. I understand where your coming from with the valve overlap, trust me there, we had a GTR sucking through the exhaust mani with a set of mis timed 272's.

Anywho, I'm pretty sure my cams will work wonders for the top end loss of the KA, while not hurting the low end to badly. I basically designed them around the turbo I'll be selling. That way the entire air indctuon system is working together, which is one fairly large problem the KA has right now.

WD

[trpower7]

Let's all keep in mind that a lot of (and I mean most) of this is still in the theory world............