Alright, I purchased a set of 205/60/15 H speed rated BF Goodrich Traction T/A’s about a year ago with a 60,000 mile warranty. 30,000 miles have been put on them since then. These tires have been rotated front to back every 3,000 miles with the oil change and kept at 29 psi cold. I just recently took my car into Sears where I bought the tires to have the left front tire repaired from a rapid loss in tire pressure. Well they called me half way into the repair to tell me that my tires were more worn down then they had thought. Well apparently they are shot, meaning they are way below specs and are pretty worn down in the middle. Well they offered me a pro-rated warranty to buy half the mileage back because of premature wear because the tires are worn down evenly, even though they are excessively worn down in the middle. Yet this tire is shot at 30,000 miles on a 60,000 mile warranty! WTF! This tire is supposed to be an excellent tire and has nothing but awesome reviews on it and the UTQG rating is 440. The wear is in the middle where from brand new the tire already has less tread anyway. How is this possible?
I know what your thinking, it’s and over inflation issue dude. Well Sears says to inflate this tire at 29 psi cold, so that’s exactly what I did. I did not do it very often as well, so there is no freaking way this tire was anything but 29 or under psi cold. Last I checked, about a week ago, all the tires were around 24 psi cold, and 24-29 hot so I know they were not over inflated. Yet the direct tire wear is down the middle? What is going on here, how is this possible? Could it be a suspension problem, or some freak tires or what? I really need this issue resolved, as I need new tires today. I don’t know what to do, buy the same tires again and pray the same thing doesn’t happen, or go with a different tire? Help me out please!
I will have pictures up in a bit if it helps.
Need Some Quick (FAST) Help with a Tire Problem (Also posted in Gen Chat)
Re: Need Some Quick (Clatch)
If they're worn down in the middle, that's the only explanation. And, just FYI, the tires brand new come with the same amount of tread across the tire (10/32nds of an inch). Keep in mind that you should check and adjust your tire pressure at least weekly (as per manufacturer).
And, just to be honest, you're lucky that they ARE pro-rating your tires. Most tire companies would fight that, given the tire wear.
And, just to be honest, you're lucky that they ARE pro-rating your tires. Most tire companies would fight that, given the tire wear.
Re: Need Some Quick (JeromeS13)
Just FYI the BF Goodrich Traction T/A's do NOT come with the same amount of tread across the tire, because when I was talking to the salesman at Sears he took me over and physically showed me. He also did this quietly, it's not something they want you to know that the middle of the T/A has less tread than the rest of the tire. That's more than likely why he gave me the warranty. Next time your is a tire shop, check them out if you do not believe me.JeromeS13 wrote:If they're worn down in the middle, that's the only explanation. And, just FYI, the tires brand new come with the same amount of tread across the tire (10/32nds of an inch). Keep in mind that you should check and adjust your tire pressure at least weekly (as per manufacturer).
And, just to be honest, you're lucky that they ARE pro-rating your tires. Most tire companies would fight that, given the tire wear.
Also, I'm not lying about the tire pressure, why the **** would I lie about something if I'm trying to explain it to get help. This is why there is a problem here, because the tires were clearly not over inflated, and Sears has it on record as they checked the pressure before even notifying of the problem. Therefore I’m not “lucky,” I’m honest, and I’m getting what I deserve even if it is 100% the tires fault because of a defect. This is not the help I need; I need credible information by somebody who knows what they are talking about without this suspecting that I am lying bull****.
I am sorry but this just gets extremely exasperating when I am honestly just trying to find out what the problem is.
Re: Need Some Quick (Clatch)
Number one: when Sears sends that tire back, MAST (The Company that owns BFG) won't give them a DIME if the tread wear is like you say. Period. So be grateful you're getting anything at all. Seriously.
Number two: Both Jerome and I, as well as SmithSR worked (or still do) in the tire business. We know that what you're describing IS NOT A DEFECT. Tread wear issues aren't caused by defects (unless the MFR miss-compounded the entire tire, which I highly, highly doubt). It's premature tread wear that can be caused (most notably by what you're describing) by over inflation and other problems. So don't accuse him of "not knowing his stuff”. I assure you, he does.
Keep in mind; most gauges are not accurate, even in tire shops. Buy a good one, with a bleed valve and check the tire in the morning, on say, every Sunday. That's the best way to go: once a week. I've seen gauges off by 3psi or more (on the low side)...which could be your problem, you -think- they're at 29, and they may be at 32.
Number three: you are correct the traction T/A comes with 9/32" in the middle by design. Not of any significance, IMO, given your situation of massive center wear.
Also, check your alignment, if you are not running enough negative camber (in spec), you'll be riding exclusively on that centerline of the tire all the time, which would compound and over inflation issue.
Be happy. Most manufacturers will not adjust a tire with any 'wear patterns' in them at all, because in 90% of the cases there was a miss-use or other issue at the heart of it.
Keep something in mind, when a tire manufacturer decides to put a "tread wear" warranty on a tire, they do it by statistical analysis. IE, they look at the distribution of estimated mileage on a certain tire, and say "ok, 95% of these went 60k", we'll put the mileage warranty there, that way we can estimate only 5% will come back with claims...they do this under the assumption (which is a poor one), that the tires will be properly inflated, aligned, and rotated throughout their life and will see "normal service", IE no racing, auto crossing, etc...
I would go and get a good air gauge (race wholesale sells some nice ones between 30-50 dollars) and check your tires yourself, and not trust a gauge that gets beat around all day in a tire shop. I know what happens to those gauges, and I never trusted them while working there. I bought my own.
Good luck. Overall, if you're so sure it's "the tires fault" as the industry people hear so often, you can always buy another brand/type.
-Chet
Number two: Both Jerome and I, as well as SmithSR worked (or still do) in the tire business. We know that what you're describing IS NOT A DEFECT. Tread wear issues aren't caused by defects (unless the MFR miss-compounded the entire tire, which I highly, highly doubt). It's premature tread wear that can be caused (most notably by what you're describing) by over inflation and other problems. So don't accuse him of "not knowing his stuff”. I assure you, he does.
Keep in mind; most gauges are not accurate, even in tire shops. Buy a good one, with a bleed valve and check the tire in the morning, on say, every Sunday. That's the best way to go: once a week. I've seen gauges off by 3psi or more (on the low side)...which could be your problem, you -think- they're at 29, and they may be at 32.
Number three: you are correct the traction T/A comes with 9/32" in the middle by design. Not of any significance, IMO, given your situation of massive center wear.
Also, check your alignment, if you are not running enough negative camber (in spec), you'll be riding exclusively on that centerline of the tire all the time, which would compound and over inflation issue.
Be happy. Most manufacturers will not adjust a tire with any 'wear patterns' in them at all, because in 90% of the cases there was a miss-use or other issue at the heart of it.
Keep something in mind, when a tire manufacturer decides to put a "tread wear" warranty on a tire, they do it by statistical analysis. IE, they look at the distribution of estimated mileage on a certain tire, and say "ok, 95% of these went 60k", we'll put the mileage warranty there, that way we can estimate only 5% will come back with claims...they do this under the assumption (which is a poor one), that the tires will be properly inflated, aligned, and rotated throughout their life and will see "normal service", IE no racing, auto crossing, etc...
I would go and get a good air gauge (race wholesale sells some nice ones between 30-50 dollars) and check your tires yourself, and not trust a gauge that gets beat around all day in a tire shop. I know what happens to those gauges, and I never trusted them while working there. I bought my own.
Good luck. Overall, if you're so sure it's "the tires fault" as the industry people hear so often, you can always buy another brand/type.
-Chet
Re: Need Some Quick (Clatch)
My bad on the tire's tread depth. I haven't been in the tire business for a while now. And, I made that assumption based on the majority of passenger car tire's specs.
Re: Need Some Quick (JeromeS13)
I tried three different gauges and they all read they same exact results, except the lcd gauge read .5 either under or over the pencil and dial style gauges. Therefore, I cannot see this as a problem with a broken gauge.
However the negative camber issue is the first time I have heard this mentioned. Would this be something that Sears would not be able to adjust when they did the initial alignment with the current set 30,000 miles ago? Would a Sears’s alignment even go that far? Also, would the negative camber issue only pertain to the front or rear tires? I shoooouuuullld be able to tell which tires have more wear in the center, and locate either the back or the front as being the problem. These tires are rotated every 3,000 miles so it should be apparent. Finally can you describe what happens in detail when you have a negative camber issue and where I would be able to get it fixed?
However the negative camber issue is the first time I have heard this mentioned. Would this be something that Sears would not be able to adjust when they did the initial alignment with the current set 30,000 miles ago? Would a Sears’s alignment even go that far? Also, would the negative camber issue only pertain to the front or rear tires? I shoooouuuullld be able to tell which tires have more wear in the center, and locate either the back or the front as being the problem. These tires are rotated every 3,000 miles so it should be apparent. Finally can you describe what happens in detail when you have a negative camber issue and where I would be able to get it fixed?
Re: Need Some Quick (Clatch)
chances are, you'd have the problem in the rear. What you'd ahve would be like, too much positive camber (not enough negative) to be causing the isse you are referring to..
Sears should ahve given you some specs during the alignment, and you should have it adjusted ever years, or 15k miles (12k sometimes)
-Chet
Sears should ahve given you some specs during the alignment, and you should have it adjusted ever years, or 15k miles (12k sometimes)
-Chet
Re: Need Some Quick (Exar-Kun)
wow. you got 30 thousand miles out of 1 set of tires. im lucky to get like 5k. and your getting another set for half off. i cant even remember the last time my car had brand new tires.
this thread is monster lame.
this thread is monster lame.
Re: Need Some Quick (chmercer)
Maybe I take care of my daily driver and don't drive like *** to destroy my tires in fewer than 5k miles. If you’re going to put that kind of abuse on your car it really should be on a set designated for that kind of abuse i.e. autocross and drifting.
Now the obvious question, what tire do the professionals (Jerome, Chet, SmithSR, etc.) recommend for a long lasting daily driver that sees spirited driving every once in awhile. I also would like it to be available in a 50 to 55 series if possible; stock is 195-205/60/15. Also, if I went to a 195 instead of a 205 would the tire be smaller and more stretched for better handling? Anyway, I guess sizes I'm looking at would be 195-205/50-60/15. and I don't care about ride comfort at all; I would rather have performance and handling.
The tire I see that I like is the Falken Ziex ZE 512 because of the availability of sizes. However I would like to stay under $500 as I'm getting these half off, so really $250 would be the maximum that I want to spend with the warranty in effect.
Now the obvious question, what tire do the professionals (Jerome, Chet, SmithSR, etc.) recommend for a long lasting daily driver that sees spirited driving every once in awhile. I also would like it to be available in a 50 to 55 series if possible; stock is 195-205/60/15. Also, if I went to a 195 instead of a 205 would the tire be smaller and more stretched for better handling? Anyway, I guess sizes I'm looking at would be 195-205/50-60/15. and I don't care about ride comfort at all; I would rather have performance and handling.
The tire I see that I like is the Falken Ziex ZE 512 because of the availability of sizes. However I would like to stay under $500 as I'm getting these half off, so really $250 would be the maximum that I want to spend with the warranty in effect.