So.. grabbing a used "tested" transmission from a local wreckers for around $330cdn ($250USD) and I can get a clutch for not much either...
my main concern, is long (hrs) should I expect the labour to be for a mechanic to change my transmission and clutch?
My mechanic also told me that I should get some new part (at the end of my driveshaft) because the newer transmission going in will not match up with my driveshaft because of wear and will loosen up and leak... or something...
I'm just not sure what part he was talking about, but any insight on to that issue would be appreciated...
again.. main question... the average transmission and clutch job total hours..
Are there any recommendations I should do while I have my transmission out? Any small performance parts I can stick on, other than a racing clutch?
My clutch problem turned out to be that I need a new clutch... and I might as well replace my transmission while its out.
thanks for any input
Need some opinions
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GroundZero
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2003 6:27 pm
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ricebike
- Posts: 3381
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 7:03 pm
- Car: 1989 240sx se 5spd (donated to my brother in law)
2002 Quest
2005 Altima - Location: CNJ
to add...
maybe the mech is mentioning the output shaft seal @ the tail end of the transmission... might as well check the input shaft seal as well; so there won't be any gear oil leaking into your new clutch kit. teflon seal on the sensors as well as on the fill n drain plugs w/ new synthetic fluid. heck, time to throw in a short shifter too!
I 2nd the rear main seal replacement as well as flywheel resurfacing/replacemnet w/ a lighter unit. Plus, don't forget the pilot bushing; I didn't get one in my LUK clutch kit.
I've heard from a few members to get new flywheel bolts as well. I couldn't get mines off when I did my own clutch; was glad that the flywheel was in good shape for just light sanding only...
maybe the mech is mentioning the output shaft seal @ the tail end of the transmission... might as well check the input shaft seal as well; so there won't be any gear oil leaking into your new clutch kit. teflon seal on the sensors as well as on the fill n drain plugs w/ new synthetic fluid. heck, time to throw in a short shifter too!
I 2nd the rear main seal replacement as well as flywheel resurfacing/replacemnet w/ a lighter unit. Plus, don't forget the pilot bushing; I didn't get one in my LUK clutch kit.
I've heard from a few members to get new flywheel bolts as well. I couldn't get mines off when I did my own clutch; was glad that the flywheel was in good shape for just light sanding only...