MS-13_240SX_91 wrote:hahaha! actually when i bought the wheels from ebay it said 16x8 +0 offset. at first look i didn't really like how it looks.
but i've learnd to love it anyways. lol.. planning on putting some frender flares too but not yet. need to budget
the RUCAS and the vibration on my drive shaft. not sure yet if its the center support bearing or the u-joint.
So in your own opinion which one would you prefer? 4-2-1 or 4-1?
and what did you use on your front lip? thanks in advanced
Well, I didn't go to into detail about the performance affect on the car, but their's alot of personal preference. What I was talking about with the back preassure is what causes the difference in performance. A 4-2-1 will perform better "all around" but a 4-1 will almost always perform better at top end. Think about it, 4-1 will be alot more free flowing at high rpms because the flow rate is so high that it pushes out the "double backpreassure" effect. and 4-1 has longer individual tubes. Of course just like changing to a longer pipe on a dirt bike, this will KILL your bottom end. And BTW with 4-1 the longer the individual tubes the better because that's what cancells out the "double backpreassure" but the tubes have to be equal length and that's the part they usually mess up. Unequal lenth will hurt your horsepower potential. 4-2-1 has more "all around" power because the design eliminates the double back at lower rpm but has shorter tubes and creates slightly more overall backpreassure. So at top end they arent as good as 4-1 but they have the same efficiency at all rpms so mid range is KILLER with this design. And if you have a NA KA you want mid range performance so 4-2-1 is usually the way to go, especially for drifting.
I'd most def. go with 4-2-1 if I could afford it. 4-1 really is only if you like to show really big dyno numbers. Top end is good for drag racing because your rev's are always up high, but they suck for drifting and autocross and road racing and especially for daily driving. You'll essentially have one big LUMP of power right before redline. And KA doesn't like to make power up their anyways so why try to put parts that only improve that area??
Bottom line I'd say is no matter which you choose individual tube lenth on the headers is critical and you have to be careful which ones you go with. 4-1 is easier to design so alot more people make cheap ones that are fairly good, also alot of people make cheap ones that are fairly bad, so be careful. Do your homework to find the companies that did theirs. The thing is alot of companies copy good ones. Like Megan copies Apexi which is why their coilovers are so good. And SSAutochrome copies Apexi as well for their Dual exhaust (N1 knockoffs) and they perform just as well. So it's something to consider. DC did their homework on 4-2-1 for S13 so find a company that copied them. You can find cheap headers for like 50 bucks lol
And the lip I'm assuming your talking about my home made "home depot lip" that I had back in '06... lol. It was just wall boarder from home depot. comes in long rolls for like 5 bucks. I bent some metal staps for back support and used screws and 3m automotive tape to attach it to the factory SE Chuki lip. Once the car was lowered it no longer survived
