Need some help here.. searching endlessly..

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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xracerx972
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:40 am
Car: 89 240sx
Location: New York

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Hey guys..
So im currently troubleshooting my headlight issues.. They will go up, but wont retract. Also, only one headlight works. The other is a brand new bulb.. All of the fuses checked out fine. I saw the thread about headlight issues, so I followed it and found this. I went ahead and got a brand new combination switch, but still have the same problems. Any ideas what could have caused this type of overcurrent in the combo switch? I imagine I'll find my problem when I find what caused this..

Ill continue searching.. I'll try replacing the retractor relays.. I dont have a multimeter at the moment to test for voltage at the headlight thats out yet. Assuming the relays are good and theres no voltage at the headlight connector, what suggestions do you guys have? Headlight timer? :werd:

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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I'm guessing that's the old switch? They just get old and eventually arc.

As for your retracting issue, it's going to be either Retract Relay 3 or the headlamp timer. Basically, there's a metal disc with some keyways cut into it on the headlamp motor that are paired up some contacts. Those basically tell the headlamp timer "we're going up" or "we're going down" (the motor only goes in one direction, kind of like the wiper motors). But if the headlamp timer is broken, the timer will not activate Retract Relay 3 to supply power to the motor again for the down cycle. If the relay is what's busted, you'll need a black 5 pin relay to replace it. Get your multimeter and then check the headlamp timer is pulsing the relay properly during the headlamp down cycle.

As for the one headlamp that's out. If it's both high and low beam, it's probably the retract relay associated with that headlamp (LH is retract 1 and RH is retract 2). Both high and low use the same ground, and it goes through the relay. The motors activate the relays when they're in motion, which cuts the ground of the headlamps. Something is causing the relay to stay activated. Even if the relay burned out, it would fail in the naturally closed position, allowing the headlights to function. My guess is there's a wire rubbed through (check the wheel well harness on the driver side) or the headlamp timer is seriously borked enough to power that relay (the timer is supposed to have a signal line from the relay, but it could theoretically backfeed current to the relay).

Hope that gets you started on fixing it.

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xracerx972
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:40 am
Car: 89 240sx
Location: New York

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Very informative.. Thanks

Yes, thats the old switch and it is both high and low beams on the driver side headlight.

I'll post back on what I found to be wrong so we can keep the database going..

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blkvrtswp
Posts: 509
Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 6:45 pm
Car: 93 240SX Convertible
SR20DET FP 20G Turbo
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY

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Something odd I discovered while troubleshooting my pop-up gremlins: If you disconnect the battery, then reconnect you need to give it some time (around 5 minutes works for me) for the timer control to 'initialize' or something.

If I wait, everything works as expected, but try them too soon (especially frustrating when I was trying to add sleepy manual switches) and they go bonkers - hesitating, only one goes up or one goes down and the other stays up. This was after I replaced my toasty HL switch stalk.

Good luck!

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xracerx972
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:40 am
Car: 89 240sx
Location: New York

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This is my timer assembly (28415-40F00). After calling many dealerships, it seems they are on a national backorder with no guarantee on when or if they will ever come in from Japan. This also applies to Canadian Nissan dealerships. So I pulled mine apart to see if it looks like toast and surprisingly, it looks good still. Just thought Id let others know this update. If your timers are toast, good luck! It seems pretty simple to repair for an electronics shop though.

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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I'm bumping this up since you're still chasing gremlins. First thing is to ask the dumb question. Have you ensured the pop up switch itself isn't playing tricks on you? When the switch is in the off position, it loops a circuit to the timer for while the motor is in the down cycle. The wire colors from the switch are Red and Light Green. You can always just test the switch by tossing a jumper between those two pins on the harness.

Second have you tested retract relay 3? It's the relay that funnels current to the pop up motors during the down cycle.

As for the timer, I don't think that's going to be your issue now. The components LOOK ok from the picture you posted, but if it comes down to it, you can always test each piece to ensure they're working. But I'm starting to feel more confident that the issue is more related to that relay not working properly.

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xracerx972
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:40 am
Car: 89 240sx
Location: New York

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Thanks thanks

Yes, the timer assembly circuit board looks good, I dont think thats the problem either.

The combo switch has been replaced as well as all 4 headlight relays.

The fuses all check out, so that only leaves wiring and the actual switch itself. :chuckle: I saved the switch for last, since its easiest and wanted an indepth inspection of the chassis wiring.

I found out that the headlight wasnt working because of the connector on the positive terminal, it just needed cleaned up and reseated. Both headlights have dedicated wires on the positive terminal of the battery.


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