well my 3-way CDT components are installed and so is my 12" HCCA Orion... i love the CDT's sound so natural/smooth, but the Orion is just a beast and licksass for SQ...
so what i want to do now is get another 10" sub that i can run from the two extra channels that i have left on my 50x4 RMS concept amp (at 4 ohms)... that way i can just turn off the power to the orion, and still get solid clean bass from this new sub with the 100W i'll be feeding it. i'll only run the orion for competitions or for when i really want to pound it.
i also don't want to spend a lot of money, no more than say $250 CDN retail for the 10". i been thinkin about some kind of eclipse sub, but don't really know which one, kinda wanna stay away from mainstream (ex. Alpine, MTX, Rockford, etc.), but i'm open to anything that has good potential...
post away guys!
Need Some Clean Bass!!
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Former_240_s14
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THREE WORDS.............Alpine Type R, only problem is you would maybe need to run another amp to it, possibly a monoblock Alpine 200x1, and right now they are going cheap w/last year designs... I got mine for $160 w/3 year full warranty.........it was an floor model at Circuit City, but no one ever used it cause there were all these "flashy" amps that SAID 750watts, 800 watts, etc etc.. too bad people really didn't realize the Alpine was a better amp..............
thats my opinion, possibly maybe even a JL Audio W3 would work tooo.....great SQ!
thats my opinion, possibly maybe even a JL Audio W3 would work tooo.....great SQ!
YO... DONT MIX SUBWOOFER SIZES!!!!!!!!
I found this out the hard way... I showed up at an SPL Outlaw competition with 2 18s and 2 15's and i scored a 134db with all of them working... then I took out the 18's and got a 149.9 with just the 15's. If you are looking for clean bass... I would sound deaden your trunk and doors then put a bunch of power to that Orion sub... I do understand you beef with that sub being for spl and not so much for sound quality... but you can do it... What you should do is take that 4ch amp and bridge it to 2 channels so that you have 200wx2 on your 3 way system... cross it over at about 90hz and then have your sub crossover at about 80hz... leave about a 10hz difference so that you dont have too much frequency overlap between the subs and the components... as far as the sub is concerned... make sure that you have a good box for that orion... it likes ported boxes and a TON of power... that sub could handle 2 of those monoblock Alpine amps (one for each voicecoil if the voicecoils are 2 ohm each). if they are not then you would need one large amp to run it well... those orions can sound musical just as long as you feed them at least 400watts rms power. Your alternator and battery can handle the additional load if you upgrade your battery ground wire... the wire running from the negative side of the battery to the chassis. i would use a good 2awg cable from a car audio store (Streetwires, Monster, whatever). I wish you the best of luck man!!!
I found this out the hard way... I showed up at an SPL Outlaw competition with 2 18s and 2 15's and i scored a 134db with all of them working... then I took out the 18's and got a 149.9 with just the 15's. If you are looking for clean bass... I would sound deaden your trunk and doors then put a bunch of power to that Orion sub... I do understand you beef with that sub being for spl and not so much for sound quality... but you can do it... What you should do is take that 4ch amp and bridge it to 2 channels so that you have 200wx2 on your 3 way system... cross it over at about 90hz and then have your sub crossover at about 80hz... leave about a 10hz difference so that you dont have too much frequency overlap between the subs and the components... as far as the sub is concerned... make sure that you have a good box for that orion... it likes ported boxes and a TON of power... that sub could handle 2 of those monoblock Alpine amps (one for each voicecoil if the voicecoils are 2 ohm each). if they are not then you would need one large amp to run it well... those orions can sound musical just as long as you feed them at least 400watts rms power. Your alternator and battery can handle the additional load if you upgrade your battery ground wire... the wire running from the negative side of the battery to the chassis. i would use a good 2awg cable from a car audio store (Streetwires, Monster, whatever). I wish you the best of luck man!!!
SIMMSLED YOU A DOPE MODERATOR! :ylsuper
ya all you've said, i've taken into consideration... but I'm feeding the Orion a 1000W RMS, in a slot ported box, and it sounds really sloppy, but that's prolly cause it's cheap Tsunami power, and the port is tuned to 50HZ so it bottoms out on a lot of songs, but puts out the most spl for competitions.
So what i'm gonna do is make a street port as well, which is directly swapable with my competition port, and it will be tuned to 30 HZ, which should help out in the SQ department both for punchiness and hittin those low notes.
but this sub is a BEAST, and will never be good for SQ. so what i want to do is hook up a 10" which i can hook up to the rear channels of my 4ch amp, and listen to that setup for the majority of the time while just cruisin... and then when i really wanna blow someone away, i'll have a switch connected to the remote wire on the Tsunami amp to blast my Orion.
i think that by having two different size subs, you get something called "PHASE CANCELLATION"... same deal with a bunch of rattles cause the rattles cancel out some of the bass which results in lower SPL... it's when do sound waves are identical in both frequency and somehting else, and they just cancel each other out...
i'm not bs-ing, i'm just taking an educated guess :P
ya all you've said, i've taken into consideration... but I'm feeding the Orion a 1000W RMS, in a slot ported box, and it sounds really sloppy, but that's prolly cause it's cheap Tsunami power, and the port is tuned to 50HZ so it bottoms out on a lot of songs, but puts out the most spl for competitions.
So what i'm gonna do is make a street port as well, which is directly swapable with my competition port, and it will be tuned to 30 HZ, which should help out in the SQ department both for punchiness and hittin those low notes.
but this sub is a BEAST, and will never be good for SQ. so what i want to do is hook up a 10" which i can hook up to the rear channels of my 4ch amp, and listen to that setup for the majority of the time while just cruisin... and then when i really wanna blow someone away, i'll have a switch connected to the remote wire on the Tsunami amp to blast my Orion.
i think that by having two different size subs, you get something called "PHASE CANCELLATION"... same deal with a bunch of rattles cause the rattles cancel out some of the bass which results in lower SPL... it's when do sound waves are identical in both frequency and somehting else, and they just cancel each other out...
i'm not bs-ing, i'm just taking an educated guess :P
Thanx bro, I'm just sorry I havent been able to be around much this summer... It will change though.Ahhh, I see where you are goin with that now... the street tuned port will definitely give you better power handling below the 50 hz point.The Phaze Cancelation is exactly what happens. That was a good hypothesis.
found the perfect sub for the extra bass that i want:
Resonant Engineering 8" (RE8)
link with pics and specs
i have heard a lot of good things about these little wonders... and for $95 CDN, it's tough to beat...
so now what i'm plannin on doin is building a small fibreglass enclosure for it which will sit in the middle "pillar" behind the center console; on the floor between the two backseats on the little hump there... it will be aimed at the windsheild, and should still give clearance for the two front seats to be fully reclined.
i think it will be cool... what do you guys think?
Resonant Engineering 8" (RE8)
link with pics and specs
i have heard a lot of good things about these little wonders... and for $95 CDN, it's tough to beat...
so now what i'm plannin on doin is building a small fibreglass enclosure for it which will sit in the middle "pillar" behind the center console; on the floor between the two backseats on the little hump there... it will be aimed at the windsheild, and should still give clearance for the two front seats to be fully reclined.
i think it will be cool... what do you guys think?
