Need serious help....think my engine is done for?

[Mustangs_Suck]

Ok so...my front main seal blew, so I replaced it once, and I put it in backwards and some things didn't line up, so I replaced it again.

Now....I removed the crank pulley and what do I see? a little half circle piece of metal inside my engine under my crankshaft....and what do I see missing? the little lip on the crankshaft itself that goes into the little groove on the crank pulley.

I put it all back together anyways, and started it up, it runs and sounds fine, so I took it for a drive, and it feels really good, idles perfect, and all the power is there, only for me to come home and let it idle for a min. to see oil spewing all over the place from behind my front crank pulley...once again.

So my question is this - If that little piece broke off the crank pulley, would my engine be considered done for? REMEMBER it runs and drives GREAT, but oil spews everywhere, so I'm thinking that because there's no little piece to fill the groove in the crank pulley, that oil is coming out of there - would that make sense, or can it all work without that tiny thing and I should try replacing the seal for the 3rd (and final) time? This time the seal got pushed into the motor kinda far, and I scuffed an edge up a bit, so it might not of sealed....but since i found this new wonderful piece of metal (which I have removed) I'm thinking it's not the seal anymore, but something worse.

Any input would be appreciated, I'm basically either looking at options A) it'll be fine, it's the seal or B) putting the car up for sale and I want to know if I should list it as basically blown (even though it runs and drives very well) or list it as needing a new crankshaft.

Thanks for the help in advance.

[Silvia007]

First off, it would be nice to see pictures of how the metal piece looks like and where you think it comes from. If it broke from your crank pulley, get a new pulley or get an unorthodox pulley, the KA's crank shaft is next to s*** if you are talking about balance anyway so unorthodox or some aftermarket pulley won't do much more damage. That piece that broke off probably bust through your seal so I'd replace the seal once more "AFTER" a pulley swap.

[Ubernoober]

Sounds to me like you just pushed the key out of the crank. Put it back where it belongs and have a professional install the seal+dampner. Don't take this the wrong way, but you are only doing more and more damage to the car with your inexperience. You will save money and be able to sell the car for more in the long run if it is done correctly. Also, ask to watch the installation and pick up a few pointers along the way. Its how we all learn ... me included.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Silvia - Alright, I'll see what I can do with the pics...I have a digi cam, but need to find a certain USB port attachment.

The piece is off the crankshaft itself, not the pulley - I know that for sure.

Uber - Well since I'll be doing this a 3rd time I know what I am doing now for sure. I'm not going to pay a shop to do this, they said $388 which is insane as I can do it myself in about 1hr. including taking all parts off and putting them back on, I'm just having bad luck, as I'm sure it'd be fine if the damn "key" (if that's what it is) didn't fall off.

I hope I still have that piece and didn't just discard it from being angry, which with the way my luck is going, I wouldn't be surprised if I did.

Thanks for the replies, I'll be doing this all again tomorrow and see what's up...

[Mustangs_Suck]

Uber - I looked online and it's DEFINITLEY the "woodruff key" that was the piece of metal I found.

How do I go about replacing it, does it just slide in or should I tap it with a rubber mallet?

Thanks so much.

[Ubernoober]

Use a small wire brush to clean out the slot on the crank (NO pieces in the pan please!), then wipe it clean and make sure to remove any small burs on the key (a file is ok but DO NOT make the key thinner, it is supposed to fit snug). Tap it in with a metal hammer. It should go right in with very light taps, we aren't trying to bang on the key causing dents and whatnot. That key is what aligns the damper and keeps it from spinning on the crank.

As for the seal, it is critically important that it be put in straight and that the area on the damper it runs on be perfectly smooth. If you pound the seal in ****eyed it will leak. If you put it in at an angle and then pound it flat it will leak. If the damper is grooved (from a careless tool or even from wear from a previous seal) it will leak.Clean up the area where the seal will seat with a good rough cloth. Get rid of any crud. We want the seal to sit flat on its seat when you are done. Before you put the seal in, put a TINY beat of RTV sealant (I like Permatex Ultra-Black. It cures firm and bonds to surfaces better than normal blue/black silicon) on the seat where the seal will bottom out. In the corner. The goal is to seal any imperfections between the metal body of the seal and the metal housing of the timing cover. It takes very little. No chunks in pan.Work slowly and tap the seal into place. Constantly work around the edge of the seal in a circle, evenly working it into its seat. You should be able to feel when the seal bottoms out because your taps with the hammer will feel different. A few light taps around the seal to ensure its seated. Oil the rubber section of the seal with a good amount of motor oil. Don't wipe of any dribbles, we'll get those later. If you do not oil the seal, you will ruin it the moment you turn the engine over.If the damper is badly grooved on the surface the seal runs on, a machine shop can machine it down and press on a stainless steel collar to give you a perfect new surface to run on. Or you could junkyard and get a replacement damper in better condition. Oil this surface before you slide it on the crank. Make sure the slot and key line up (thats probably what pushed out your key before). Slowly work it on. Watch very closely when the damper passes into the seal. If the lip of the seal folds over, pull out and start over. Re-apply motor oil if the seal isn't slipping over the damper with ease. It is important that the damper slide into the seal without deforming the rubber part of the seal. NEVER pound a damper on by hitting on the outer ring of a damper that has a rubber isolated inertia ring (this is for engines that have this). Once its together you can wipe off any oil that dribbled.

BTW, I guess I should have said "pulley" so just use "pulley" and "damper" interchangeably here.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Thanks for all the help, I'll let you know how it goes later on today or tomorrow.