Need opinions to maximize reliability

[Checkered-Member]

Since this is my only car, it must be reliable once it’s turbocharged.

With the list bellow what else can I do to maximize reliability? Or replace?

Fuel:Nismo 550cc injectorsWalbro fuel pumpHigh flow fuel filter

Setup:New garret T3/T4JGS maniMedium size intercoolerWater injectionTial 38mm wastegateHKS BOV

Engine: Low mileage engine from junkyard, rebuilt, balanced and blueprintedBetter head gasketPorted intake maniSecondary butterflies removedPorted headA/C removedwiseco 9.0 pistonsPauter rodsAPR head studsForged valves: either from ka24de.com or Ferrea ValvesNew OE spec valve springs AEM EMS with wide band.AEM Twin-Fire Ignition ModuleNKG plugs (1 step colder)

goal:max of 300whpdaily around 250

[Jookmasta]

dang very good list. only thing missing is upgraded clutch unless ur gonna be auto. sounds like a very reliable setup for those whp numbers.

[Craving4Boost]

peice of cake...whats going to be your fuel management?

[fiznat]

A *fully* built motor with a power goal of less than 300 and you're asking about how to make it more reliable?

C'omon man, get some cahones!! You could push more than twice that power with the kind of engine you're building-- I think its going to be pretty mechanically stable at such sissy boost levels. ...I dont understand the JGS mani either lol...

To seriously answer your question though, since the engine is already pretty stout with those parts, just make sure your tuning is on the mark and nothing will stop you.

[skatanic28]

make sure to set up a boost cut with the ems once you are up and running. preventing overboosting and boost spikes will help a lot with reliability.

[nissanfanatic]

I think a tuned ECU will be a better route for you since you are looking for reliability. Less trial and error that way. And its plug and play.

With that goal, you coudl save some trouble and just use a stock engine. It would be very reliable at the goals you mentioned.

[lrb_2000]

Agreed ^

Why waste all the money to build a 600hp engine, when you only want to push out 250-300hp? I say boost your stock engine to 300hp, and if it decides to die, rebuild it, or put another one in.. much cheaper..

[Jookmasta]

point taken about the ems. in reality, a tuned ecu would be more reliable installation wise as u really cant mess up the installation of an ecu as supposed to a an ems with the coil packs and what not. stock ignition is fine at those power levels. if not, replace that aem ignition stuff with msd components.

[Checkered-Member]

...I dont understand the JGS mani either lol...

no one makes a tubular manifold for the alti, so I'll be getting the stage 2 JGS its an unequal length cast tubular type

make sure to set up a boost cut with the ems once you are up and running. preventing overboosting and boost spikes will help a lot with reliability.

oh perfect I read about how to make one of those "over-boost protectors"

I think a tuned ECU will be a better route for you since you are looking for reliability. Less trial and error that way. And its plug and play.

With that goal, you coudl save some trouble and just use a stock engine. It would be very reliable at the goals you mentioned.

No one makes an ECU tune for an OBDII Altima, EMS is also plug and play

See I can't just blow an engine, its my only car and I can't have down time...ever...so the car is going to be rewired and prepped for the new motor, motor goes in, turbo to follow, shouldn't take more then 3 days

And knowing my stupid a** I'll pick a fight with the wrong car and keep upping the boost until I start passing him.

I can see it now, me trying to take down something like a C5 or C6 up the PSI to 20 and the axels snap in half....lol

[C-Kwik]

I think all the parts are there to keep the engine reliable. Part of thereliability factor that you should consider is keeping the parts of the system reliable. Manifold cracking is not uncommon. Making sure each port has it's own flange and making sure that the outer bolt holes are wider go a long way in allowing the mani to expand freely. Also, use proper fastening hardware. The OEM manifold studs and nuts should work well and use mechanical locks. Use safety wire or mechanically locking nuts and bolts(Stage 8 as an example) for the turbo exhaust inlet and outlet flanges and for both wastegate flanges. In the shot term, lack of these types of fasteners will result mostly in blown gaskets and are a cheap fix, but the more you have to tinker with it in replacing said gaskets, the more you open it up for problems. I went through about 6 wastegate gaskets before I figured this one out. And despite what Corky Bell says about serrated washers, they don't hold well. They certainly work better than spring washers, but in the end, they still come loose.