Need "no start" help - no click on start position, ignition fuse blows

[OnTheRoadAgain]

re: 91 Q45

I thought the car cranked a little more slowly this past week, but it was hard to tell since it starts so quickly... I thought I would go and have it checked..... alternator is about 2 years old... battery was 3 yrs old, terminals cleaned regularly etc.

so, yesterday, wouldn't start; put the charger on the battery for 2 hrs... still no start, no click nothing;

headlites did not even dim on "start" position.

odd, windows didn't work either, radio didn't work (I thought battery was shorted)

tested bad battery and installed installed new battery, same thing. (3 year old battery - to the month)

found 30amp ignition fuse blown (in engine compartment next to battery) ; swapped with another and blew again on "start" position;installed another, and now windows work if in "on" position, I'm sure will blow fuse again, if turned to "start".

so, starter? or ingition switch? (both?)

what do you think, I'm out of fuses and will have to rent a car today.

appreciate your help

(91 Q45)

[Kiven422]

I cleaned and scraped the shiz out of the inside of the terminals as well as the battery terminals.

... even though they appeared to be clean and fit on tightly and the lights worked...

For the no click - There is a thick wire on the bottom of the car, it has a harness connection right in the middle. Its right behind the engine but in front of the transmission. <--- this wire may just need to be disconnected and reconnected... and maybe cleaned. This was the unknown issue I had.

[OnTheRoadAgain]

thanks, I am on the clean terminal agenda, I cleaned them 6 months ago, and cleaned them again yesterday, but no good, the battery had a dead cell, failed load test, and the acid looked black...

the 2 fuses I burned out are 'fusible links', and are $10.50 EACH at the dealer...

the ignition switch they told me is integral with the key cylinder... then they said the electrical component comes separately: $138.00

I wonder if I can rig a circuit breaker tempoarily while attempting to find the problem....

I'll check the wire underneath ... thanks for that tip!

[loystock]

You have a short circuit somewhere in the starting circuit. The starting circuit goes from Battery to Fusible Link to Ignition Switch (circuit completed at START position) then Inhibitor Switch (circuit closed in Park or Neutral) then finally to the Starter Solenoid. The starter is connected to the battery when the Starter Solenoid is energized.

You need an ohmmeter to find where the short circuit is. Do not install a new fusible link until you have isolated the problem. With Ignition OFF, check the resistance from the fusible link (load-side) to chassis ground. If reading goes low or '0' ohm,. you have a short circuit between the fusible link and ignition switch. If reading is very high/infinity, problem is further down.

For the next step, you may need an assistant to hold the ignition switch in START position or clips for the test leads and place the meter in front of the windshield where you can see the reading. With shifter in PARK and ignition switch at START, you now complete the circuit all the way to the starter solenoid. If the reading goes to '0' you have a short circuit between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid, or the solenoid itself is shorted.

To further isolate, set ignition switch to ON then move the shifter to Drive (to open the inhibitor switch). Then set ignition to START again. If reading goes high, then short is between the inhibitor switch and starter solenoid. If reading goes to '0', short is between the ignition switch and inhibitor switch.

Better download a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual) and go to 'EL' chapter to see the wiring diagram and diagnostic.

Rod

Rod

[OnTheRoadAgain]

THANKS! This is a big help!